K12 - Engine does not start ; fan turns on ; NATS

[Mic]

Welcome everybody ; - )

I have got problem with starting engine in my Micra K12 1,2 65KM (CR12DE engine)

I made short circuit on crankshaft position sensor (POS) joint/plug? because I thought it is the reverse lamp switch.

There was some sound audible near left headlamp, and now:
* when I am switching key to ON position, cooling fan starts (at HI speed).

* Starter is working only 1-2 seconds, then stops -> and engine do not start (cut-off)

* NATS (immobilizer) warning light is continuously lighting.

Everything else works OK


I have Micra Workshop Manual and it looks to be ECM Relay fault, or something else which is in IPDM box near left headlamp.

Do you have any solutions ?


Thanks!

Kind regards ; )

 

[Mic]

hello ; - p

 

[Guy]

If you have cooked a relay, good luck. I looked at accessing the brain box thing once. You need to remove the headlight, arch liner and entire front bumper... Needless to say I gave up.

 

[funkydoodycool]

^^^ and that's from a man who didn't mind changing his injectors.

 

[Guy]

Lol, true :laugh:.

 

[Mic]

Engine works now, but I do not know what was the problem.
But my service probably knows it

 

[gtsnissanb]

I know this problem, I found it on a few k12s I never figured it out I got outside to bring them into the workshop and would get nothing, like it was dead! Then an hour or two later it would be fine!

 

[morrispd]

Hello did anyone ever get to the bottom of this issue.

I had a similar problem, the engine started running badly, AA came out and read fault codes, P0300+ so diagnosed as faulty coil pack.

To identify which I unplugged each in turn, expecting rough running to worsen if a working coil pack was unplugged.

From the left, the first 2 didn't make any difference to the running, the other 2 did.

I was suspicious that 2 had gone as I hadn't previously had a MIL light lit.

I was told it was OK to drive home for a couple of miles, it wasn't, it broke down completely and won't start and the rad fan runs at speed and the security/ immobiliser light is lit.

It only cranks the once, then cuts out. if you try again you get nothing. If you lock and unlock the car you get 1 crank the first time you try then nothing after that.

Also, if you try to read the codes now on the OBD socket you get a "link failed" error on my and the AA's code reader.

The car is at the garage now but rather than clock up diagnostic fee's I thought I'd start here.

If anyone has any ideas where to start please let me know. I already disconnected the battery overnight, no change.

FYI the car has recently had a new gearbox (don't think it's relevant but thought I'd mention it as they could have disconnected / damaged something

Thanks.

 

[Elandré]

@morrispd
Have you ever been able to fix the issue? Just changed the clutch on mine, started fine, I shut her off and wouldn't restart ever since...

 

[Elandré]

Engine works now, but I do not know what was the problem.
But my service probably knows it

@Mic

Have you ever managed to figure out what the issue was?

 

[CUBED]

Recently had similar problems with my cube (same setup mechanically as the k12)

First it was the ECU fuse kept shorting due to a bad earth on the ECU and then the coil pack connector plugs started melting due to bad earth on the engine and earth to the coil pack connectors themselves.

 

[GTOPEZZER]

Hey Morrispd and Mic,
Did you ever get to the bottom of this?????
As I now have the exact same thing going on with my daughters 2004 1.2 Micra :-(
It all started last weekend when she said the engine stopped twice on the way home from work about halfway through her 30minute commute, , , but it was very brief and restarted itself before she came to a stop (I'm guessing she means bump started as she changed down the gears)
It's got progressively worse, and shuts down while idling (could be after 2mins or even 2hrs). . . And then the fan comes on.
Now - when turning on the ignition, the fan will come on and it won't fire up, , , , , it just keeps cranking on and on. BUT - if I here the fan NOT come on, then I know it WILL start!!!!
Took it to the local mechanic to plug his thing in, and it's throwing all sorts of different codes up (he mentioned ABS, Power Steering, Canbus etc)
He fitted a new crank angle sensor and a replacement fuse/relay board to no avail, and has admitted defeat without going into the expense of replacing each other possibilities of the electrical components.
Also - when it first happened, she noticed that the Rev Counter immediately dropped to zero, even though the car was still driving as in the engine and gears were going round, , , which is obviously an electrical issue.

 

[morrispd]

When a coil went we carried on driving and the misfire cooked another coil. The failed coil melted the coil harness and then it didn't work at all. We repaired the harness, (there was a short where the coil melted in the harness connector) and put on a set of coils from the scrapper and all ok. I don't think your fault is this, it sounds more like a stretched chain to me. When you have this you get all manner of errors popping up. You need someone to look at the hydraulic chain tensioner piston. When it runs out of travel and your chain continues to stretch the cam and crank are not in the position the ECU expects and it gets confused about when ignition is required and so you get rough running. A key indicator is when you come to a stop it wont idle without throttle input and stalls. The piston is the part that pushes the chain guide to keep it taught, there is a dimension for the piston extension that shows it is out of travel and I think there is a coloured mark showing it's finished (yellow I think). If you are at this stage it's a big bill and you'll wish you had sold the car 6 months ago. Good luck.