K10 to K10 R ST conversion

T

Tuukka

Greetings for all you somewhere! I decided to put up a thread in here instead of yelling at the Honda and Toyo forums :) Unfortunately i have to introduce myself as an Anti-Nissanist since ive never liked them, now i just had the chance to own and build something a bit more rare and interresting though...

So i bought a halfcut March R st -88 (pre facelift, the rally model i guess?) from Okinawa, one of the Ryuku islands,
and for the mating process i bought also -88 k10 ma10 Micra which are pretty cheap here. At the same time i did a cultural favor for my country, this half of mine is so far the second on our rather cold FINLAND :D

I suppose a picture would be nice with the apology of my bad english ;)
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frank said:
hi tuuka :) it looks very clean mechanically eh :cool:
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Yes it is suprisingly crispy from the front, luckily it is only the doner and the micra is such a pearl :) i will be posting more pics of things done and gathering the goods heres the first teaser of christmas presents for meh
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Thanks mate! I wonder if the wires coming from the dash under the steering wheel and going along the frame to the back are the same in ST and the ma10 k10? since this is half cut it would be alot easier to swap the whole harness from the st if so. And another question, where are the wires for the gas pump going, are they with this same harness? ^^
 
There's no electric pump on the ma10 engine, it's a mechanical pump, only wires going to the fuel tank would be for the fuel level sender
 
pork said:
There's no electric pump on the ma10 engine, it's a mechanical pump, only wires going to the fuel tank would be for the fuel level sender
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my poor skills of articulation, i meant the wires in the halfcut in the ST and ST DID have a electric pump right?as you can see in the christmas present pic theres 044 bosch pump i just tought that i could use already existing wires from the halfcut if i only knew what colour are they...
 
Bosch 044 is really too much. 070 is a more sensible choice. I have fitted pumps under the car on MA carb to INJ cars. You can do this too. Its quite easy way to solve the problem without removing the car.
 
Ed said:
Bosch 044 is really too much. 070 is a more sensible choice. I have fitted pumps under the car on MA carb to INJ cars. You can do this too. Its quite easy way to solve the problem without removing the car.
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well isnt the fpr doing the removal of the extra fuel, im dealing with what i got (or bought) :D new pump cost only 54€ and im going to remove the tank anyway for painting.. another thing i was wondering is that should i keep the mechanical pump in the tank and add the 044 after it or use just the 044? this is how far i got today :) tomorrow i will be painting the engine bay.
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this what i also noticed, the control arms are completely the same except march st:s arm is shorter than ma10 micras. i thought i remember somebody saying that you cant swap them, well this proves that you get extra camber with micras arms. I also remember somebody saying that the brake discs are from sunny and brake calipers from bluebird is this correct?
 
I ran into some troubles, when trying to take the harness from the left side where it was not steered before. I thought that the wire could reach into where its needed if i just turn it around, well it idid not. However i did connect enough wires trying to start it. what i found after the 3 minutes of sawing it was all four sparkplugs dry as sahara... Immediately and before it, i had a bad feeling about the injectors being stuck after 1 whole year of importing and standing still. But is it still possible that the unconnected wires could be reason why the injectors wont open? If i remember correctly the unconnected jacks were: by the Ufo, two more jacks by the ufo from the other harness, Ufo connected to the gearbox :D dont laugh at me! :D the harness was turned around ;D ;D and all the lambdas were not connected, the rest of the wires must have been for all kinds of lights.. Heres yesterdays progress, You can see the harness coming from the right side now
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Katos täällähän on joku muukin joulumaasta :D The plans are pretty open since ive never even driven these kind of beasts ;) ill keep it if i like it and if i run into some financial or troubles with room i could think of selling it, and at some point i got to have S2k and to save money for it this is good project :) even bringing one from britain in exchange has crossed my mind!
 
Plumbing for the supercharger isn't right, but you can soon sort that.
 
Ed said:
Plumbing for the supercharger isn't right, but you can soon sort that.
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Did not fully understand what you meant with plumbing the supercharger? what about the ufo solenoid, i have not connected that or anything at these ports i told earlier ^ except the main power from keyswitch to ECU. can i harm the engine with wrong mixture or something, it seems to run very nicely but the idle is pretty rough though. prob because the restrictor in the vaccuum line is in the wrong place or non existing..
 
What Ed meant was some of your vac lines are piped wrong. Any st I have had never had a great idle but drove fine, dont torment yourself and spend hours trying to get it right
 
Baz said:
What Ed meant was some of your vac lines are piped wrong. Any st I have had never had a great idle but drove fine, dont torment yourself and spend hours trying to get it right
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That is very very possible, i need to take another peak of the vaccuum diagram. I did not seem to find out where in the tubes the small restrictor is supposed to locate..? My students assembled the new lines incorrectly and i took a quick look at the diagram and tried to sort it out but the restrictor must have gone to the wrong pipe during the fix...
 
I'm just remembering there if that a march r with a rally ecu then the s/c stays on for a certain number of seconds after the throttle is closed, where in the road verion as soon as you close the throttle the s/c disengages. So you might be ok. Take it for a drive see what the boost is like
 
Baz said:
I'm just remembering there if that a march r with a rally ecu then the s/c stays on for a certain number of seconds after the throttle is closed, where in the road verion as soon as you close the throttle the s/c disengages. So you might be ok. Take it for a drive see what the boost is like
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The ecu says its number 44 but the doner car obviously was the rally version, "R" to say. Theres so much wiring still to do, im pretty lost with all of it. the wiring diagram would help alot, especially with those two jacks i have not individually wired anything but the power to the ecu from the keyswitch to make it run :D my tach is not working, s/c light not working, volt-meter not working, fuel level, not working, temp gauge not working, either the rear lighting where im not even getting any power :confused: and the idle up for lights also unconnected. im not sure even if the solenoid over at the ufo is working :D definately im not an electrician but i can do simple welding together if i just knew "what to where" and thanks alot for the restrictor thing mate, ill fix it first thing in the morning!
 
i also have a 44 ecu and the tach volt-meter , fuel level,, temp gauge, rear lighting with the proper mods in wiring will work.
the R didnt have any SC light so its ok. Mine isnt working also with this on.
Do you have any 46 ecu to check?
 
The ecus look the same. I have a Nismo ecu, some ECU's the SC light doesnt work. (dont know why - never looked into it)
 
oranje said:
i also have a 44 ecu and the tach volt-meter , fuel level,, temp gauge, rear lighting with the proper mods in wiring will work.
the R didnt have any SC light so its ok. Mine isnt working also with this on.
Do you have any 46 ecu to check?
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This is the second, from what i heard and propably the only march st in finland so i got nothing to compare with or anything like. i got the rear lighting partially work with new light/indicator switch which was broken. but i still have all these meters and stuff unwired so i cant get the car to traffic, i wont dare to drive my distances from home to work cause im not having temp meter or fuel meter wired.. also the tach would be nice. if i only knew where to wire these gauges i could drive with my precisicous beastie :)
 
For Sale! The whole thing with everything march/micra related or Just March R ST parts! Running and driveable condition, wiring left to sort out,(dash lighting and blinkers not working) Looks like this right now.
 

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Price depends on what youre buying :D i suppose that only the Superturbo parts are the bestsellers. And yes in Finland at the moment, but not impossible that id be selling it to somewhere else
 
well i need the engine gearbox loom dash fuel-pump etc interior of an st and the bonnet are optional ;) I live in belgium btw :D
 
Provo said:
well i need the engine gearbox loom dash fuel-pump etc interior of an st and the bonnet are optional ;) I live in belgium btw :D
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Engine sold in 12hours! :D must be a personal record :D Since this was a halfcut, i dont have any interior except for the dash, gearbox is going for my own fun. All wire harnesses/Looms are available and dash meters. Im also selling something not so easily found, The Rally ECU! keep asking for some small parts i might not be needing and i do have lots of them. The bonnet is so far the only one i have, and it would be pretty expensive to ship from here to there :confused:
 
Mark C said:
Years ago, but what did you do with the rest of the chassis rail etc ?
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I ended up selling only the engine to a local Nissan enthusiast and used the ST R-gearbox in the otherwise stock K10.
I was great fun beating the winter with ease and great fun. Later on i sold the car with all ST-related to another Nissan enthusiast, who managed to find a turbo engine for it and succesfully register the car.

He also made it look like a rally replica and proceeded to make more of them :D
 

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