Idle Rev?
- Thread starter Acoris
- Start date
Hello Serkan,
I also have a 1.4 (K11 2002), newly acquired, with a similar shaking at idle (not sure of the revs though as I don't have access to diagnostic software). I've been doing a little research and it is pointing towards either the alternator or the Maf for me (a common issue apparently). Have you checked these over?
OP
OP
Hi MrFahrenheit,
Thank you for your answer.
Sometimes when i just start accelerating the car shakes a little too. It may seem MAF as google.
How can i check them?
I bought this device (see picture) today, can i check alternator?
How about maf?
Hi Serkan,
I haven't started work on mine yet, will be doing so next week. It also vibrates/overfuels at idle, however I have a service kit (plugs/fuel filter/air filter, etc) which I shall be fitting beforehand as it doesn't look like it's been done in a while.
For a basic alternator check use a multimeter or voltmeter set at v dc, check battery when engine not running (should be 12-13v). Start engine and let it settle, check again and should be 13.5-14.5v. Turn all lights, heater, rear demister on and check again. Should be around 11-12.5v.
For the Maf remove and clean in methylated spirits, and only methylated spirits as anything else will damage it, and refit. I shall also be doing this to the throttle position sensor too.
Let me know how you get on, I will do the same.
Bad MAF is a common fault on coilpack Micras.
Please if you do decide to replace the MAF, DO NOT BUY an eBay replacement. These a ****ty quality made in China and aren't Bosch, and they simply fail after a few days.
If you do change the MAF, get a second hand one from a low mileage Micra.
Please if you do decide to replace the MAF, DO NOT BUY an eBay replacement. These a ****ty quality made in China and aren't Bosch, and they simply fail after a few days.
If you do change the MAF, get a second hand one from a low mileage Micra.
OP
OP
Can I use a MAF from 1.0 or 1.3?
I think coilpack Micra MAF's are different to dizzy Micra MAF's.
So you would need to be looking out for a MAF from a 1.0 or 1.4, provided they're post 2000, i.e coilpack models, since yours is a 1.4 so must be a coilpack model.
frank
Club Member
yes the pre 2000 cg,s have a different setup (embedded maf) the QG engines use the same maf and they are mounted in a rubber ducting (so subject to less vibration)
If you remove/decide to clean the maf you'll need a ts25 '5 point' security bit. I stress 5 point as they are commonly 6 point. For the tps it's a t20 hex (allen) bit. These are as fitted to mine, which looked to be original.
I've been working through my engine and sensors, now have a much better running car at idle, with no roughness and very little vibration.
So I'll talk you through what I did.
Changed air filter - no difference
Changed spark plugs - no difference
Checked injector resistance (ok) - no difference
Removed and checked tps (ok) - no difference
Removed maf and cleaned sensor in methylated spirits - no difference
Removed iacv (positioned at rear of throttle body), this was fouled with carbon and the 'valve' was sticky. Soaked this in methylated spirits and agitated it, removed even more carbon, checked that the valve operated freely before refitting. Refitted it then started the engine. After a little hesitancy at idle it cleared itself and has been running smoothly since then; idles well, no more vibration and feeling of cutting out, also not overfuelling at idle. If you haven't already I would suggest removing and cleaning this before focussing (and spending money) on a new maf.
So I'll talk you through what I did.
Changed air filter - no difference
Changed spark plugs - no difference
Checked injector resistance (ok) - no difference
Removed and checked tps (ok) - no difference
Removed maf and cleaned sensor in methylated spirits - no difference
Removed iacv (positioned at rear of throttle body), this was fouled with carbon and the 'valve' was sticky. Soaked this in methylated spirits and agitated it, removed even more carbon, checked that the valve operated freely before refitting. Refitted it then started the engine. After a little hesitancy at idle it cleared itself and has been running smoothly since then; idles well, no more vibration and feeling of cutting out, also not overfuelling at idle. If you haven't already I would suggest removing and cleaning this before focussing (and spending money) on a new maf.
This is my first time hearing that the MAF is different on dizzy vs coilpack
This was an attempt to improve it on later models?
This was an attempt to improve it on later models?
OP
OP
Thanks for the detailed explaniation.
Do you have any pic regarding iacv‘s location?
Completely different ecu so alot of stuff is different electronically for the engine.
Unfortunately not, I'm not really one for pics.
It's at the rear of the throttle body, between it and the bulkhead. Best way to get at it is to remove the airbox and you'll see the 3 connector plugs on the throttle body; 2 on the side for the map and tps, and 1 at the rear for the iacv. Unplug this, then locate the 2 hex (allen) head bolts that hold it in place. You'll struggle with a standard size bit (even 1/4" drive) and definitely with an allen key. I used a hex bit and small ratchet spanner (not sure of the size). There was also an air pipe/clip that restricted access for me which I disconnected temporarily. The iacv then came away easily (mind there are seals of which replacement is recommended). Then cleaned it up and re-installed.
OP
OP
Is it one of these?
Attachments
The maf is the one with 5 wires as frank has pointed out, the component to the left of that is the tps. In the top of your picture, with the word 'bosch' written on it, is the iacv. You can just make out one of the allen bolts that hold it in place.
If you remove them I would suggest ONLY using methylated spirits on the components, as I have already mentioned. I did a bit of prior research and was informed the solvents within carb cleaner are not good for the sensitive electrics within the maf and tps. I used methylated spirits only and had no issues when I refitted them. If you use carb cleaner there is the potential for damaging sensitive components that may have nothing wrong with them, creating an unecessary expense. Go easy and treat them gently, these are fairly delicate components.
The black 'mesh' will come out, it's held in by a metal spring clip, although there is another metal mesh underneath which doesn't come off, so it's upto you how you do it. Just remember to take your maf, tps and iacv off first.
shine a bright light down there if you can, it'll make it easier
Will check mine tomorrow, let you know.
I think you need to read back through your thread before attempting to remove it, as that's the maf.
Read my posts 9, 10 and 14. Gives you all the information you need.
frank
Club Member
dunno without seeing it in person tbh mate, it should idle at about 1000 cold and 700 hot
That hose doesnt go there. Both should be open. The hose is the gearbox breather. And that canister is the carbon canister and that plug is the vent. So just leave both open. They where like they should.
OP
OP
Oh
oh god! I will disconnect it first thing.
OP
OP
Is it loose? Must i seal it? Could be the reason why my steering wheel shakes during warm idle?
