How to: Remove Speakers on a K11 S + Radio removal/Install
Having had a bit of trouble finding a thread with lots of images on it, i thought about doing it myself. so here goes. After a lot of finger fettling and gentle tugging
i managed it Just pics, with some notes:
first things first. get the top part of door armrest off along with the door latch surround. these pop off fairly easily:
This is how it sits - you can see the metal clips on either end. These pull up with gentle but firm pulling power
Undo the two screws you can see just where the handle trough is (yes, trough. cant think of a better name for it).
next is the window winder. This is fiddly. there is a u shaped spring clasp you need to dislodge. a long flat head screwdriver or some thin tweezers/pliers should get to this. i managed with a bit of fiddling. The black washer just slides off easy peasy. Fitting it back on is easier. just slot the spring back into the winder handle slots, then push on to the splined bolt until it clicks:
this is the door panel after its been taken off. Be extremely gentle with the lower part as i found out to my delight, the blue trim clips pulled through and damaged the door card and broke a little of the plastic off the clips. Remember when putting this back on to slot the top part (the black rubber window guide) into the door first and check to make sure the clips are aligned with the holes in the door. Press gently until it clicks in place.
here is the speaker hole after speaker is removed. just used a philips screwdriver to remove the 3 screws. The plastic sheet can be removed without damaging it, but i'll be keeping it. i used some of the gummy stuff from around the rest of the plastic sheet to help stick it on in place.
the hole itself measures 54mm deep (there is a metal joint that wont allow the speaker to go back any further).
The speaker grill thats part of the door card moulding gives you an extra 10mm approx, so you may get away with a deeper speaker with a 9mm thick spacer.
im fitting some Fli integrators that i lifted from my old Pug 306. so these may fit without the need for a spacer....im yet to try it out.
i'll try to insert some more images soon when i get back to the job in hand
RADIO INSTALLATION:
Its easy enough to explain,but pictures always help. Here we go:
- First, undo the 2 screws underneath the heater controls above and adjacent to the radio face:
- then remove the ash tray to reveal 2 more screws and remove these:
- gently pull the panel away from the bottom, gently working toward the top until it comes away - there will be 2 cables still attached (for the cigarette/12v input - if you have one - and the headlight adjuster) so be careful not to pull too far away:
- Next you will need to remove the screws holding the radio in, there should be 4 (2 either side of the radio facia):
- once these are removed, the radio will pull out easily. unplug the connectors at the back.
- You'll now need to remove the brackets from either side of the radio - these are what hold the radio in the dash unit. They are handily marked LH (left hand) and RH (right hand).
- once removed, you'll need to attach them to your new radio. these may or may not fit, but in this instance, at least one fitted mine either side, which is enough to hold it in firmly with no rattles:
(I put the unused screws back in the original radio if ever i come to get rid of the car and want to re-install it)
- Connect your new head unit up with the appropriate adapter (i dont have a reference number for it, i got it off ebay for a few quid).
I then put a couple of screws in to check all is working before putting the rest back on
- i did find that the facia surround that was included with the radio was slightly too big to have it attached when the dash was put back together and i struggled to get the facia to 'pop' out when i wanted to remove it, so i would recommend not using it!
- Re-attached the cig/12V input and light adjuster and replace the dash panel in reverse (slip the top end in first, then make sure the cables etc aren't in the way before pressing it into place).
- Put all 4 screws back in to hold the dash panel in place firmly and you're done:
Oh yeah - dont forget the ash tray
Having had a bit of trouble finding a thread with lots of images on it, i thought about doing it myself. so here goes. After a lot of finger fettling and gentle tugging
i managed it Just pics, with some notes:first things first. get the top part of door armrest off along with the door latch surround. these pop off fairly easily:
This is how it sits - you can see the metal clips on either end. These pull up with gentle but firm pulling power
Undo the two screws you can see just where the handle trough is (yes, trough. cant think of a better name for it).
next is the window winder. This is fiddly. there is a u shaped spring clasp you need to dislodge. a long flat head screwdriver or some thin tweezers/pliers should get to this. i managed with a bit of fiddling. The black washer just slides off easy peasy. Fitting it back on is easier. just slot the spring back into the winder handle slots, then push on to the splined bolt until it clicks:
this is the door panel after its been taken off. Be extremely gentle with the lower part as i found out to my delight, the blue trim clips pulled through and damaged the door card and broke a little of the plastic off the clips. Remember when putting this back on to slot the top part (the black rubber window guide) into the door first and check to make sure the clips are aligned with the holes in the door. Press gently until it clicks in place.
here is the speaker hole after speaker is removed. just used a philips screwdriver to remove the 3 screws. The plastic sheet can be removed without damaging it, but i'll be keeping it. i used some of the gummy stuff from around the rest of the plastic sheet to help stick it on in place.
the hole itself measures 54mm deep (there is a metal joint that wont allow the speaker to go back any further).
The speaker grill thats part of the door card moulding gives you an extra 10mm approx, so you may get away with a deeper speaker with a 9mm thick spacer.
im fitting some Fli integrators that i lifted from my old Pug 306. so these may fit without the need for a spacer....im yet to try it out.
i'll try to insert some more images soon when i get back to the job in hand
RADIO INSTALLATION:
Its easy enough to explain,but pictures always help. Here we go:
- First, undo the 2 screws underneath the heater controls above and adjacent to the radio face:
- then remove the ash tray to reveal 2 more screws and remove these:
- gently pull the panel away from the bottom, gently working toward the top until it comes away - there will be 2 cables still attached (for the cigarette/12v input - if you have one - and the headlight adjuster) so be careful not to pull too far away:
- Next you will need to remove the screws holding the radio in, there should be 4 (2 either side of the radio facia):
- once these are removed, the radio will pull out easily. unplug the connectors at the back.
- You'll now need to remove the brackets from either side of the radio - these are what hold the radio in the dash unit. They are handily marked LH (left hand) and RH (right hand).
- once removed, you'll need to attach them to your new radio. these may or may not fit, but in this instance, at least one fitted mine either side, which is enough to hold it in firmly with no rattles:
(I put the unused screws back in the original radio if ever i come to get rid of the car and want to re-install it)
- Connect your new head unit up with the appropriate adapter (i dont have a reference number for it, i got it off ebay for a few quid).
I then put a couple of screws in to check all is working before putting the rest back on
- i did find that the facia surround that was included with the radio was slightly too big to have it attached when the dash was put back together and i struggled to get the facia to 'pop' out when i wanted to remove it, so i would recommend not using it!
- Re-attached the cig/12V input and light adjuster and replace the dash panel in reverse (slip the top end in first, then make sure the cables etc aren't in the way before pressing it into place).
- Put all 4 screws back in to hold the dash panel in place firmly and you're done:
Oh yeah - dont forget the ash tray
