help. rough running after engine swap

Jimbo4040

Ex. Club Member
First post so excuse me if ive put this in the wrong place.
Have just swapped cg10 with cg13 after head gasket started going on 1.0. Have fitted it to standard cg10 early gearbox. Firstly the clutch is barely biting and is at the end of the adjustment.
But the main problem is it's running really roughly. Seems to be way too rich stinks of petrol. Only seems to be a problem at low revs. Earlier the code readout was 21 I think. Which is ignition fault. But I think I've remedied that. Nowits reading 13 if I remember correctly.
If anyone's got any ideas they'd be welcomed
 
ahh i remember my coolant temp sensor was disconnected on my swap, had this sort of problem but with check light as well
 
Yeah engine light on. And fan running constantly. So im going to investigate the engine temp sensor tomorrow. I'll use the one from my old engine. I know that one works. Got any ideas about the clutch issue?.
 
Yeah engine light on. And fan running constantly. So im going to investigate the engine temp sensor tomorrow. I'll use the one from my old engine. I know that one works. Got any ideas about the clutch issue?.
i saw a mention of that in the workshop manual pdf jimbo, i forget what the diagnosis was tho, and i have the same setup, without any clutch issues :)
 
Aah turns out the engine temperature sensor wasn't plugged in properly. At least that's stopped the fan running. Its still running rough. But i unplugged injector on cylinder no.2 and it made no difference. So I guess it's running over rich to compensate. Spose its not helped by the fact I've got a janspeed manifold so the lambda is only reading 2 and 3.
Are the cg10 injectors the same cause I've got those on my old engine. Think I'll just fit one of those if they'll be ok
 
Was definitely injector 2. Have fitted the other one. Runs nicely now.
Clutch is still barely able to take any form of power though
 
Was definitely injector 2. Have fitted the other one. Runs nicely now.
Clutch is still barely able to take any form of power though
ahh nice one jimbo :) the little 160mm clutch should take upto 100hp, i had to build a hybrid 160/180 for mine.
was it a new plate ? what make was it ?
 
Brand new exedy (never heard of them) but can't be too bad though. New pressure plate and bearing aswell.
well known brand (with mixed reviews) i think the clutch wont release properly if its in backwards (the cushdrive hits the f/w bolts iirc) praps the thrust race fork is misaligned ?
 
it wont release look, the preface 1.0 fw has a very shallow dish

P3170022.JPG
 
Have just unwound clutch cable so that the bite is just above the floor. Can now put most of the power down. I think it'll bed in so I think ill leave it for now and see. Thanks for the help. Will post an update soon
 
is there any way i can use the 1.3 lightened flywheel that I have, what can i do to change the offset between it and where the 1.0 flywheel sits.
 
is there any way i can use the 1.3 lightened flywheel that I have, what can i do to change the offset between it and where the 1.0 flywheel sits.
nah, too much dish mate (you would need about 25mm spacer between the engine and box) and the thrust bearing is a smaller dia, and would miss the pressure plate fingers
 
nah, too much dish mate (you would need about 25mm spacer between the engine and box) and the thrust bearing is a smaller dia, and would miss the pressure plate fingers

Aah ill give it a miss then. Just need to find the cause of the gearstick rattle now. could be the incorrect bolt I used in the linkage cause I couldn't find the original
 
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