Help ...K11 Front Disc Brakes

CMF_micrafun2

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Slight problem.

As I turn the nut on the ball joint (wishbone arm) - the bolt turns as well.

So I cant tighten up the ball joint at the moment.

Possible - grease on the stud and ball joint.

Is this what a ball joint does when its sound.

Or does it mean I need a new ball joint.

Am going to clean up the bolt thread with a taper die or a good clean nut and see if that helps.

I am now away from the car now - just wondered if there is a pull up on the bolt so that it locks with a key at the foot of the bolt.
 

CMF_asdame

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this is one of those annoying features with balljoints.

if the nut seizes against the stud thread via dirt/rust before it could tighten against the hub, because the balljoint taper is smooth n round it means the stud could be freely rotated by the nut due to increased friction between nut & stud being greater than the friction between the balljoint & hub.

i always thought why couldn't they at least just spline/rib/key the taper so it anchors against the hub. i artificially keyed the tapered stud on mine by roughening up the smooth surface with a centre punch and mole grips so the raised metal around the deformation bites against the hub.

take the nut & balljoint apart. really clean n retap that balljoint stud, this is one area why i mentioned nuts&bolts should screw together with minimal effort. after cleaning, you should be able to screw the nut all the way through the stud by finger with no friction. if ur using a nylon locknut, test the thread with a normal nut.

clean n degrease the taper & hub hole surface so they can grip each other.

insert balljoint stud through hole then copper grease the thread end.

a new nut really helps and recommended since theyre cheap as chips

screw nut onto stud by finger till it touches the hub. the increased pressure from the nut touching the hub should be enough to anchor the tapered stud against the hub during full tightening.

if the nut tightens before it reaches the hub and that the stud can rock loosely in&out of the hub hole then the thread is still contaminated. do not tighten any further, take out nut n retap the stud.

if ur using a nylon locknut, and you checked the stud threads r clean by testing with normal nut, you need to increase the clamping pressure between the tapered stud & hub hole by pushing em together with an adjustable plumbing plier (one finger at bottom of suspension arm and other finger at top of the hub hole where the nut touches) in order to overcome the high friction of the nylon lock.
 

CMF_micrafun2

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Thats great explanation. Tks.

Agreed Nuts are cheap.

But I wanted to ensure I use a high tensile steel to match the original that came off the car.

That means I might have to get to Nissan or a specialist nut supplier.

I dont think Stainless Steel 8.8 grade is as strong as high tensile.
 

CMF_micrafun2

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Update:

This morning collected some misc nuts from Nissan.

Cleaned up the ball joint threads.

Pls tell me what the blue ring on the caliper bolts means. Does it mean that the bolt has been thread locked or does it mean make sure you clean and then thread lock this fixing. See pic attached.

Have now managed to re assemble completely, torque up to the hub nut.

Now only finishing touches - fit three split pins - And therefore not able to do a test drive yet - and need to chk gear oil on level ground.

Also bed in brakes for few days.

Asdame and Frank2 - Many thanks for all your advices.

Maybe next I will deal with the loose door hinges.

Danny
 

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CMF_micrafun2

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Would like to consider a good quality 8mm-32mm impact sockets.
Six sided.
Both standard and deep.
Also a set for imperial.
For use with electric impact wrench.
Must be usable on standard hand ratchets.
1/2inch drive preferred.
3/8 inch drive for smaller sockets is ok.

Would appreciate pointers.
Is it possible to get a complete set.
Or must one buy several sets.
Obvious disadvantage of buying several sets - duplicated sockets.

One nicely made complete set would be really useful.

Links would be appreciated.

Danny
 

CMF_asdame

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if 6 sided 12mm socket didn't fit, try a hammering a 12 sided 11mm socket in.

if its still not tight enough then try the 11mm 6sided socket.

if its still stuck you could try those spiral teethed bolt-out tool or a mole grip

or most likely that the bolt thread is seized onto the caliper guide pin, then i would just grind the bolt head off to seperate the caliper from the guide pin then mole grip the bolt stud out of the guide pin (may need new guide pin if its seized tight)
 

CMF_micrafun2

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asdame

Tks for the tips.

This was a bolt that I retightened after I put the new pads in.

So the threads will be easy to open.
Its just the head.
I will keep the mole grip and other tools in mind.

I've now done my test drive.
Brakes work fine.
And the clicking on full lock from the drive shaft is gone.

Will be doing another little test drive later.

Danny
 

CMF_micrafun2

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asdame wrote:
quote"the balljoint is press fitted onto the arm. if the balljoint boot or thread is damaged i usually just replace the whole arm for £18.

if the joint is ok, buying an m12 1.25 die tool is useful for retapping the balljoint thread with that rusted bit of lockpin left behind and obstructing the nut. die could also be used on the steering rack, wheel studs, etc unquote

how did you establish that it was M12 1.25?
Apparently M12 comes in five different pitch according to ironmonger.
Is there a guage or tool that will estb that easily - could be useful when you visit the iron monger
 

CMF_asdame

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i measured with verniers that it was M12, in my halfords tap & die set i tested the M12 1.5 die, it fitted initially but soon stopped cos the pitch was incorrect. used a thread pitch gauge in toolset to check pitch.

went to a local industrial tools supplier like place to search for this m12 1.25 die, twas real expensive at 57quid each but was useful during my micra rebuild project
 

CMF_micrafun2

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I was thinking that I would buy a tap and die set.
Then I found that there were medium and fine threads.
Then this week I learnt that there were 5 different M12 threads!
I was also quoted £45 for M12 tapered die.

I've come to the conclusion that I will never have all the taps and dies I need - somehow I have to manage best I can.

 

CMF_asdame

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hmm interesting tool.

i have like 3 sets of tap&dies here.

most used is halfords metric set for almost all threads on the car.

the machine marts imperial set was a waste of money cos none of them matched the fine steering rack threads (hence brought the specialised m12 1.25 die).

finally a cheapo set from boyes were of poundshop-like quality but it was cheap and had 2-3 useful dies that the imperial set didn't.
 

CMF_micrafun2

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when I first tapped and die'd ... hehe
there were whitworth threads and BSP threads and
something called tpi = threads per inch.

oh ... and there was metric, but we didnt bother too much with those ... cause most UK cars and industry used those long held standards.

although the mechanical stuff was interestin, I went away from that due to my work which was more electronics related.

But metric is more the standard now.

So now that I am coming back to cars and mechanical things, I am noticing some big changes in the landscape.
 

CMF_asdame

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asdame WROTE:

"caliper to guide pin = 27nm

caliper mount to hub = 59nm

susp strut to hub = 118nm

you could replace the strut to hub bolts from nissan only if they're really rusted or wrecked but last time i brought some rear trailing arm bolts from them they were absolute fortune.

if they're just dirty n surface rust/grit, i ended up getting a M12x1.25 thread die to clean up/retap the bolt, good as new.

costed about £50 but its useful to retap like the steering arm, wheel nut thread, rear trailing arm bolts, etc

or wirebrush the threads
Click to expand...

correction bout the cost of the m12 die, looking back on me records it was actually £34 from cromwell.co.uk in stockton

 

CMF_micrafun2

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asdame
Just looked at Cromwell and Kennedy impact sockets.
Prices are little above Halfords and Machinemart for individual sockets.
Are Kennedy a quality grade up from whats available from the others?

or is the price discounted for some buyers.
Danny
 

CMF_micrafun2

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asdame

Thats a nice set.
The pieces look very similar to my Halfords set.
I've been told by many that hexagonal sockets are for difficult to open bolts and also you can use them in the future if you get an impact wrench. With that in mind, I've taken the plunge.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cis932-32pc-hd-38in-p2112-impact-so

This will keep me busy for a while. Also it will help me approach difficult bolts in the front suspension with more confidence. I hope!

I am finding that when a nut/bolt is not "snug tight" in the socket, there could be a rounding off problem. I am learning to use different materials in the socket. So far I've tried a piece of rubber glove over a nut, sticky floor tape and mastic tape. I am keen to get some metal tape next ... if I can find it.

I am looking for a 5ft x one inch thick wall conduit. This is for use with a breaker bar. Where should I look?

Danny
 
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