Parts List/Guide for a GA16DE engine into a K11 Micra
This is what I used and how I fit a GA engine into my 99 K11. My experience of car modification up until this point was fitting coilovers and an exhaust (which is why some of this guide may seem a bit "have a go") But provided you do your research, its pretty easy as far as engine swaps go, not much can go wrong, just make sure its all bolted up right and you are away.
Engine
GA16DE from a primera/almera/100nx etc
Worth noting this was a Dizzy CG and a Dizzy GA.
This is the method I went with originally, to keep it as cheap and time friendly as possible. I will cover other options where possible, but can only confirm what works if I have done it.
Gearbox:
I used a 1.3 preface gearbox, it fits up to the GA engine, and means you can retain micra driveshafts and hubs. Be aware of the switch between cable drive to digital speedo. Although if you are using the gearbox already in the Micra you are swapping to, this shouldn't be an issue.
Flywheel/clutch
I used the cg flywheel and clutch, but had to take the flywheel to a machine shop in order to bore out the center hole in order for it to fit over the GA crank. I took the ga flywheel and the CG one and asked them to match the small hole to the big one. Could measure the crank if you don't have the flywheel etc.
Starter:
Micra starter, spaced 5mm off of the gearbox, I have a file for a 3d printed version of this, or a DXF that can be sent to a plasma/laser/waterjet company to cut for you.
Mating plate:
For the mating plate in between the Engine and box, I used the GA one, I had to seal the old starter hole, as on the GA engine the starter sits on the engine side, as the flywheel is the reverse way round to the CG. I then used the bottom plate part of the CG plate in order to seal off the bellhousing. This will obstruct two bolts on the sump! I would recommend taking the sump off and slotting the holes, so you can slide it over the bolts instead of directly onto them.
Throttle body:
I used the CG TB, it is smaller, so a power loss, but the GA TB has a different IAC, so there is no plug in the loom, I didn’t fancy tackling that. However, you can run a “remote” IAC. There are guides available on MSC and facebook on how to do this.
Water Pump.
I opted to chop down and weld up the oem water pump use an electric one instead, this is due to it causing a clearance issue with the drivers side chassis rail. I went for a Davies Craig EWP80, you can use an oem one from another vehicle, or probably even a pond pump if you find one with a good enough flow rate!
I mounted this on the bottom exit of the radiator, lowest point so least chance of air getting stuck in there.
Originally I ran this with no control, so it was at full power as soon as ignition was on, which meant the engine ran cool (less than ideal) So I would recommend looking into speed control options etc.
You can cut and weld the chassis rail if you’d rather, to fit the stock pump, lots of chat online about safety and what not. Do what you are comfortable with.
Radiator:
I stuck with the K11 one, and routed a goofy alli pipe from the engine to the top of the rad. There's a million ways to do this, just depends how far you want to go.
Exhaust Manifold:
I found an ebay special 421 manifold, and chopped and welded the existing sportex system I had. This is most likely going to have to be a custom job, as im not sure you can get the stainless manifolds in the UK anymore. Possibly the standard manifold will work, but I never tried so can't comment.
Mounts:
Rear and gearbox mounts are the Micra ones, drivers side and front will have to be custom. You are very limited on space on the drivers side. I ended up using the GA engine side mount, a plate with holes drilled to attach to that, which I then directly welded to a tubed bush bolted into the normal chassis rail position on the micra.
I ran without the front mount, but plan to change this time round.
ECU:
CG ECU, as all the plugs you need are there, provided you are using the CG throttle body
Wiring Loom:
Micra loom, had to extend the dizzy wires, and the drivers side temp sensor cables. Also, if using the CG ECU, you will need to remove the temp sensors from the CG and fit them to the GA, as they have different resistance values.
Other things to note.
The GA had egr, I got rid of it, just a case of bunging any hoses and covering any holes left by the system.
I removed my power steering, got a non pas rack and used that, mainly for clearance issues. (with this, the machined crank pulley, and the electric water pump I can remove and drop the engine in from the top, instead of having to take it out from underneath) If you do this, be aware that one of the bolts that holds the PAS bracket on is also a retaining bolt for the timing cover. So it will need replacing in order to prevent an oil leak.
I also machined down the crank pulley, as I was only running an alternator, the spare pulley was extra weight, and taking up valuable space.
This is what I used and how I fit a GA engine into my 99 K11. My experience of car modification up until this point was fitting coilovers and an exhaust (which is why some of this guide may seem a bit "have a go") But provided you do your research, its pretty easy as far as engine swaps go, not much can go wrong, just make sure its all bolted up right and you are away.
Engine
GA16DE from a primera/almera/100nx etc
Worth noting this was a Dizzy CG and a Dizzy GA.
This is the method I went with originally, to keep it as cheap and time friendly as possible. I will cover other options where possible, but can only confirm what works if I have done it.
Gearbox:
I used a 1.3 preface gearbox, it fits up to the GA engine, and means you can retain micra driveshafts and hubs. Be aware of the switch between cable drive to digital speedo. Although if you are using the gearbox already in the Micra you are swapping to, this shouldn't be an issue.
Flywheel/clutch
I used the cg flywheel and clutch, but had to take the flywheel to a machine shop in order to bore out the center hole in order for it to fit over the GA crank. I took the ga flywheel and the CG one and asked them to match the small hole to the big one. Could measure the crank if you don't have the flywheel etc.
Starter:
Micra starter, spaced 5mm off of the gearbox, I have a file for a 3d printed version of this, or a DXF that can be sent to a plasma/laser/waterjet company to cut for you.
Mating plate:
For the mating plate in between the Engine and box, I used the GA one, I had to seal the old starter hole, as on the GA engine the starter sits on the engine side, as the flywheel is the reverse way round to the CG. I then used the bottom plate part of the CG plate in order to seal off the bellhousing. This will obstruct two bolts on the sump! I would recommend taking the sump off and slotting the holes, so you can slide it over the bolts instead of directly onto them.
Throttle body:
I used the CG TB, it is smaller, so a power loss, but the GA TB has a different IAC, so there is no plug in the loom, I didn’t fancy tackling that. However, you can run a “remote” IAC. There are guides available on MSC and facebook on how to do this.
Water Pump.
I opted to chop down and weld up the oem water pump use an electric one instead, this is due to it causing a clearance issue with the drivers side chassis rail. I went for a Davies Craig EWP80, you can use an oem one from another vehicle, or probably even a pond pump if you find one with a good enough flow rate!
I mounted this on the bottom exit of the radiator, lowest point so least chance of air getting stuck in there.
Originally I ran this with no control, so it was at full power as soon as ignition was on, which meant the engine ran cool (less than ideal) So I would recommend looking into speed control options etc.
You can cut and weld the chassis rail if you’d rather, to fit the stock pump, lots of chat online about safety and what not. Do what you are comfortable with.
Radiator:
I stuck with the K11 one, and routed a goofy alli pipe from the engine to the top of the rad. There's a million ways to do this, just depends how far you want to go.
Exhaust Manifold:
I found an ebay special 421 manifold, and chopped and welded the existing sportex system I had. This is most likely going to have to be a custom job, as im not sure you can get the stainless manifolds in the UK anymore. Possibly the standard manifold will work, but I never tried so can't comment.
Mounts:
Rear and gearbox mounts are the Micra ones, drivers side and front will have to be custom. You are very limited on space on the drivers side. I ended up using the GA engine side mount, a plate with holes drilled to attach to that, which I then directly welded to a tubed bush bolted into the normal chassis rail position on the micra.
I ran without the front mount, but plan to change this time round.
ECU:
CG ECU, as all the plugs you need are there, provided you are using the CG throttle body
Wiring Loom:
Micra loom, had to extend the dizzy wires, and the drivers side temp sensor cables. Also, if using the CG ECU, you will need to remove the temp sensors from the CG and fit them to the GA, as they have different resistance values.
Other things to note.
The GA had egr, I got rid of it, just a case of bunging any hoses and covering any holes left by the system.
I removed my power steering, got a non pas rack and used that, mainly for clearance issues. (with this, the machined crank pulley, and the electric water pump I can remove and drop the engine in from the top, instead of having to take it out from underneath) If you do this, be aware that one of the bolts that holds the PAS bracket on is also a retaining bolt for the timing cover. So it will need replacing in order to prevent an oil leak.
I also machined down the crank pulley, as I was only running an alternator, the spare pulley was extra weight, and taking up valuable space.
