Flush Boot
- Thread starter Stani1029
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hi would anyone be able to tell me the steps needed to flush my boot??
step one:
take it to a body shop
step two:
pay the body shop
step three:
fit the flush gate
seriously it is not easy. to get it perfect you need to be skilled with metal bending and welding. filler wont work.
really shouldn't use any filler on a smoothed boot because the first time you close the boot you will shatter the filler...
mean micra
www.mightymicra.co.uk
it might get stuck in the U-Bend mate... dont flush...
Nah mate not to complex, but skill required thats why i got bodywork dude to do it...
basically he:
>stripped all plastics out.
>prepared surface for welds.
>cut and welded a plate over original recess, shaping it also...
>Welded, then sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, fill etc...
>tidy up and prep for primer...
anything i,ve left out will probs be added by others...
oh yeah and tape of the reg lights and then just get a feed for the relocated reg lights from one of the rear lights (most likely to be the left one)...
or buy one i made earlier off Squarepants in buy&sell section...
Nah mate not to complex, but skill required thats why i got bodywork dude to do it...
basically he:
>stripped all plastics out.
>prepared surface for welds.
>cut and welded a plate over original recess, shaping it also...
>Welded, then sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, fill etc...
>tidy up and prep for primer...
anything i,ve left out will probs be added by others...
oh yeah and tape of the reg lights and then just get a feed for the relocated reg lights from one of the rear lights (most likely to be the left one)...
or buy one i made earlier off Squarepants in buy&sell section...
59 bhp is more than enough
Deactivated Account
step one:
take it to a body shop
step two:
pay the body shop
step three:
fit the flush gate
seriously it is not easy. to get it perfect you need to be skilled with metal bending and welding. filler wont work.
really shouldn't use any filler on a smoothed boot because the first time you close the boot you will shatter the filler...
to get a perfect finish you should always use filler, however i agree that you shouldnt go chucking loads on your numer plate recess. however once the metal is welded and grided a good skim with filler will make sure all surfaces are flat, shaped properly and smooth
mean micra
www.mightymicra.co.uk
its like with most things in life... more economical the more work you get done i.e full body kit...
my full job inc spraying cost £800 which was cheap as i know him but usually £1000+
but for just the boot dont pay more than £180 max otherwise cheaper to buy Squarepants one and spray
lol... im really plugging that one...Ps: as 59 says the filler does the trick, fro finishing... it really is an art...
any fool can do a smooth boot but it takes skill to be truly flawless...
true but you can also use lead filler which is heated and then grinded back, i always try to use lead filler to avoid cracking...
goldstar0011
Ex. Club Member
Lead filler is much better, old school pro's use it alot.
Worth using it instead if you can.
I'm making notes now for a smooth boot project now
Worth using it instead if you can.
I'm making notes now for a smooth boot project now
Lead filler is much better, old school pro's use it alot.
Worth using it instead if you can.
I'm making notes now for a smooth boot project now
a smoothed boot on a golf is gonna look sweet
i know it aint micra but pics when its done
goldstar0011
Ex. Club Member
oh, I do mean the micra got some parts still, am looking to try out my newly gained welding skills
Have considered a smooth boot for golf but there's only badge recess but a smooth rear bumper, considering that
got some parts still, am looking to try out my newly gained welding skillsHave considered a smooth boot for golf but there's only badge recess but a smooth rear bumper, considering that
I'm currently working on one of these as a project at the moment and as has been said before, its incredibly time consuming and very hard to get a good finish on it.
I've been working on it on and off for about 2 months now and it's still only about 2 thirds the way finished (and mine came with the plate already welded over the number plate recess).
In my experience you have to use some filler to get a fairly smooth finish, but as has been said before, its a fine balance and as always, the less you can get away with the better. I've been doing minor body repairs on cars since I was 13 and I still find it difficult to get the finish right when it comes to filler.
As has been said before, take it to a bodyshop if you can. Its always the less risky option. Although, If you have a basic knowledge of welding and some exprerience with body repairs/fibreglass filler and you can pick up a tailgate for a few quid it might be worth a try as a project like I have. Kept me amused for a few weeks anyway
I've been working on it on and off for about 2 months now and it's still only about 2 thirds the way finished (and mine came with the plate already welded over the number plate recess).
In my experience you have to use some filler to get a fairly smooth finish, but as has been said before, its a fine balance and as always, the less you can get away with the better. I've been doing minor body repairs on cars since I was 13 and I still find it difficult to get the finish right when it comes to filler.
As has been said before, take it to a bodyshop if you can. Its always the less risky option. Although, If you have a basic knowledge of welding and some exprerience with body repairs/fibreglass filler and you can pick up a tailgate for a few quid it might be worth a try as a project like I have. Kept me amused for a few weeks anyway
goldstar0011
Ex. Club Member
Using filler is an art, anyone can slap it on and do some sanding but ti get it to blend with the body and the curves takes an accurate eye, worth trying on spare body parts.
Any pics of your progress Gam?
Any pics of your progress Gam?
K
kerbside*motors
Guest
Hold it! If you intend using a lot of filler remember lead filler is made of...lead! Do you really want to whack a great lump of lead onto your tailgate?
Decent body filler is easier to use and lighter than lead filler. Thats why most bodyshops use normal filler and not lead filler.
Decent body filler is easier to use and lighter than lead filler. Thats why most bodyshops use normal filler and not lead filler.
E
entirelyconfused
Guest
Buy mine! It's AJ5 red I think too (is that the code?). mean micra what was the colour from your old K11?
Very true. The skill is all in the sanding and slowly building up the layers of filler to make sure its even. What I actually did on mine was to put down a thin base layer of plastic padding, followed by a layer of fibreglass matting, then another thicker layer of filler over that. Although the amount of filler used would depend on the quality of the welding on the plate.
The combo of matting and filler seems to work quite nicely. It seems pretty strong and hasn't cracked or anything despite the tailgate being dropped on the floor a few times.....:doh:
I've put the project on hold for a bit because I'm pretty snowed under with college assignments at the moment, but I'll get some pictures up asap.
Thats a good point actually. Can't say I've ever used lead filler to be honest, but to me lead = heavy and you really don't want that on a tailgate. I've always just used plastic padding or that ipson stuff and never had any problems.
normal filler cracks lead filler can't.
and you don't use loads only a tiddly bit so its ok
Napster
And the Wide Green Bug
haaaahaa lol...i was cracking up at that quote by "mean micra" :grinning:
anyway.....no its not easy. i was tempted to do this to my boot, but i was going to get a spare boot to work on first as i know it would take me a while before it would be finished it and then be happy with out come!
im interested to know more about this "lead filler" anybody used it on theres?
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