FLI active sub not working

Tom Messy

Tom Messy

Ex. Club Member
The other day my sub just cut out and no longer has any power getting to it (both green and red lights are off, and makes no noise). I have checked my wiring and it all seems fine. Fuses are also in tact. The sub's amp (built in) is wired exactly the same as my main amp, so I can't see what is wrong.

Is there anything else that could go wrong? Internally maybe?

Tom
 
It could be the amp thats gone, what modle is it?
I wired my mates car with a fli amp and it wasnt working he blamed me and i told him the wiring was perfect, turns out the amp was canceld and he had to get a replacement.

If all your wiring is right thats all I can think can you get a multimeter on it to check over it all, and see where the fault is. Double check you wires tho man, just incase, specialy the remote and ground, as you say the amp isnt turning on, so the remote is what gives that its signal and the ground might not be strong depending where you have it.

did you get it from a retailer? it might be worth just getting in replaced?
 
It's the FLI Trap 12. I just replaced my remote turn on lead as I had suspicions, and it fired up for less than a second and died again.

I got it from Halfords last summer, as they were surprisingly cheap.
 
this morning to try and fix the sub! My old one had a few connections in so I replaced it in the hope that the old cable was badly connected somewhere. As I said, it fired up for a second and died again :(
 
It goes to a switch, and then to the battery, connecting to the one from the main amp. That's how I've run it for months after asking here.
 
you can use anywire for the remote, obviously the blu one you get is easiest, its just passing a signal though, it must be the connection that you have it going into. have you tried a multimeter?
 
i had same problem, instead of me running my remote of the remote wire from head unit i bridged it in to the ignition live (yellow) from back of head unit

same as you it stopped for no reason,nothing blown, all new cables, remembered it did the same in civic so now i always run of that

give this a try,if this dont work i suggest your burst into halfords like the incredible hulk,tell em whats what and hold the geeky manager to ransom with a cable tie!!

ha ha

shero: check blog, cars lowered etc now
 
err do me a favour mate does it work on any of your functions of your head unit?? as mine wouldnt work on the cd function, put the radio on worked fine, but, as soon as you put the cd back on it would turn off i had to reset my head unit then it worked again what head unit do you have ??
 
Wire in the permanent 12V feed connected to your amp to the remote connection on the amp (just bridge it accross locally) and see if it switches on. If not then the FLI unit is knackered. Also worth changing the fuse if you can, sometimes they can be partially blown and cause problems.
 
this might sound a little dangerous, but, take off the amp and put some form of pressure onto the middle of the circuit board, i ended up taping cardboard to keep pressure on it and now it works fine, haven't found a permanent solution though and it now looks messy with the amp sticking out.
 
jim_bling said:
err do me a favour mate does it work on any of your functions of your head unit?? as mine wouldnt work on the cd function, put the radio on worked fine, but, as soon as you put the cd back on it would turn off i had to reset my head unit then it worked again what head unit do you have ??
Click to expand...

my mate has the exact same problem as this! his sub worked fine for about 2 days, now it onnly works on the radio and not on the CD

if anyone knows a solution then that would be great :)
 
the remote cable needs to spike to 12v then back to 4v continuously for it to be a viable "switch" for the fli amplifiers. having spoken to midbass distribution (fli,vibe and edge manufacturers) the engineer simply said,

"if you are using anything but the remote cable on the back of the head unit, its not gonna last very long, it will work but will eventualy burn out the main floodgate diode on the circuit board"

allways use the correct wiring points. then you wont have a problem.
 
Antony said:
the remote cable needs to spike to 12v then back to 4v continuously for it to be a viable "switch" for the fli amplifiers. having spoken to midbass distribution (fli,vibe and edge manufacturers) the engineer simply said,

"if you are using anything but the remote cable on the back of the head unit, its not gonna last very long, it will work but will eventualy burn out the main floodgate diode on the circuit board"

allways use the correct wiring points. then you wont have a problem.
Click to expand...

It just needs to be a 12V connection. I've got a relay system working all my remote's (and so have many other people in pro audio) and it's fine.

Nothing should burn out.
 
Retepetsir said:
Wire in the permanent 12V feed connected to your amp to the remote connection on the amp (just bridge it accross locally) and see if it switches on. If not then the FLI unit is knackered. Also worth changing the fuse if you can, sometimes they can be partially blown and cause problems.
Click to expand...

I have the same problem as OP....i tried bridghing the 12v and remote with a small wire and it turns on the sub! thanks for that

Does this mean i just need to replace the remote wire?

thanks
 
mckenziecz said:
you should wire it from headunit, not a battery. check fuses again and use thicker wire!
Click to expand...

thanks for the quick reply mate.

I have the remote wire going to the yellow read wire behind headunit.....i think this is the ignition?....it has been working fine like this for over 2 yrs.....just stopped recently.

Anyway im not sure what u mean....can you elaborate please?

thanks:)
 
btw when i connect the remote wire from the sub o the "remote turn on" wire from the headunit it doesnt work....and never did which is why i connected it to the yellow/red ignition wire
 
If you connected it to blue wire (remote) and never worked that means the power never goes to the amp cos there is just like +4v in remote wire, by connecting to yellow (constant +12) it used to got there, Im pretty sure you need new and thicker wire, sorry for very late reply. You can try to connect to red wire (ignition)
 
The remote wire should be wired to 'remote' output from the HU, try using the electric aerial output. Sounds like you may have a loose connection somewhere, go through all your wiring from start to finish, but you may or burnt the remote circuit out with a perm 12V feed. Don't wire into the permanent live as your likely to flatten your battery or worse end up with a possible fire.
 

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