Sounds silly but is there anything to look out for i have a Frank Manifold Janspeed De cat and a sports back box hoping to get on the car this weekend !! Other that replacing gaskets as standard course am i able to access the manifold in situe or need to remove rad , bumper etc !!! Dont want to be screaming at the old girl due to not getting a spanner , socket etc or any leverage !!! PS am i likely to see and BHP ive been told the manifold is good for 6bhp !!! thanks again SEFIK (Y)
Fitting a FRANK manifold
- Thread starter SefSuperS
- Start date
You don't need to remove the bumper but it certainly helps get good access and visibility, so if you can remove it it's a bonus but not required for the swap.
There is a risk that the sprung bolts holding the downpipe to the original manifold may shear off, this happens a LOT on Micras, so make sure to give a good spray of penetrant and leave overnight to work it's way in. It's not a guarantee but it definately helps to combat the corrosion which can be seen in that area. My advice is to try these first and if they look like they are solid, make sure you have a replacement set, or you may end up not being able to reassemble......been there - done that!
This may also be the case for the little 10mm bolts holding on the OEM manifold heat shield, they are prone to shearing off too, (some may not even have the heads intact), unfortunately after years of corrosive spray on them. Generally the ones which bolt the cat to the manifold flange are ok, (5-off), but you may need some welly to get them off, as they can be torqued pretty tight.
Other than Stani's sound advice, you should be good
If you have any probs Franks the man, he's done.......well, I dare not even begin to guess how many engine swaps he's done lol, but plenty, so he's the man for info and workarounds. Thinking about it, I bet he has the record for the quickest K11 engine change amoung us easily!
There is a risk that the sprung bolts holding the downpipe to the original manifold may shear off, this happens a LOT on Micras, so make sure to give a good spray of penetrant and leave overnight to work it's way in. It's not a guarantee but it definately helps to combat the corrosion which can be seen in that area. My advice is to try these first and if they look like they are solid, make sure you have a replacement set, or you may end up not being able to reassemble......been there - done that!
This may also be the case for the little 10mm bolts holding on the OEM manifold heat shield, they are prone to shearing off too, (some may not even have the heads intact), unfortunately after years of corrosive spray on them. Generally the ones which bolt the cat to the manifold flange are ok, (5-off), but you may need some welly to get them off, as they can be torqued pretty tight.
Other than Stani's sound advice, you should be good
If you have any probs Franks the man, he's done.......well, I dare not even begin to guess how many engine swaps he's done lol, but plenty, so he's the man for info and workarounds. Thinking about it, I bet he has the record for the quickest K11 engine change amoung us easily! 
I'm in the process of doing this at the moment. To be honest its not been the easiest time for me.
The bolts that connect the manifold to the down pipe all came off easy with the exception of 1. For some reason, it had been put in underneath, and only way to undo it was with a 12mm spanner and a torque bar. Dont know if this is for all or just mine.
Also, having trouble with removing the lambda sensor. Got my 22mm spanner and turning it anticlockwise, but its rounding off the lambda sensor. Penetrating and lubricating oil tried, but nothing. Still trying but hopefully that wont happen to you!
The bolts that connect the manifold to the down pipe all came off easy with the exception of 1. For some reason, it had been put in underneath, and only way to undo it was with a 12mm spanner and a torque bar. Dont know if this is for all or just mine.
Also, having trouble with removing the lambda sensor. Got my 22mm spanner and turning it anticlockwise, but its rounding off the lambda sensor. Penetrating and lubricating oil tried, but nothing. Still trying but hopefully that wont happen to you!
Lambda sensors can be tight, but they should come out. NTK used to give you a special socket for them when you bought one, but I don't think they do anymore, but you can buy lambda sensor sockets. If it's not too late, try running the car up, the heat in the exhaust may make it easier to come out.
Otherwise take the manifold and cat out as one, because chances are you won't undo the 12mm on the back of the cat. In my experience, the outer studs on the manifold like to come out, whereas the inner ones don't come out. And the two spring bolts underneath like to snap. As above, lots of WD40/rust off and if you can, maybe use some heat.
