great info thankyou.
Ive just been out in the car for a drive and it seems to have gotten alot better :s
Never fiddled with drums before how does one go about setting the adjusters?
aaaand adjusting the throttle pedal?
may need a hub puller to remove rear hub for easier access.
-park on level road, select 1st gear, chock front wheels and release handbrake
-loosen rear wheel nuts
-jack up rear axle onto axle stands
-remove back wheels
-lift the handbrake 1 click to access the nut and loosen the cable end nut till its right at the tip. lower handbrake back down-prod a screwdriver through the grometed hole at the back of the drumbrake to release the handbrake lever stop plate mechanism and fully retract the shoes to enable the drum to be removed. pull drum off.
-removing the hub makes access alot easier. knock the grease cap off gradually with chisel & hammer. remove split pin and undo the very tight hub nut with socket & long breaker bar. remove hub
-unhook the lower spring
-now carefully remove the 2 spring loaded brake shoe retainer pins, don't lose em
-unhook and remove the shoe from the bottom groove of the backing plate that it pivots on
-unhook the cable from the handbrake lever on the shoe
-check the shoe thickness and replace if needed
-clean n degrease everything with brake cleaner
-disassemble the self adjuster, clean the threads with brake cleaner/rag, regrease then screw the self adjuster ratchet nut all the way in
-tiny smear of copper grease on the backplate that the edge of the shoes will be sliding on
-fit the cable end onto the handbrake lever on shoe
-refit the self adjuster mechanism & the main return spring onto the two shoes
-hook the top of the shoes onto the drum pistons
-hook the bottom of the shoes onto the backing plate grooves
-refit the lower tension spring onto the shoes
-while pulling the handbrake lever part of the shoe forward to reveal an open hole in the shoe frame, pop in the L-shape handbrake lever stop plate
-reinstall the spring loaded brake shoe retaining pins (very frustrating and requires patience)
-reinstall hub and torque upto 221Nm then install new splitpin
-refit drum & wheels
-put the gromet back in the handbrake lever stop plate access hole in the backing plate
-retighten the handbrake cable nut end until there's no slack upon the 1st click
-now to setup the self adjuster that we had regreased and reset, smoothly pull the handbrake up & fully down repeatedly. you hear the self adjuster ratchet mechanism faintly click away during each pull. keep pulling up & down until the ratchet stops clicking then the mechanism is set so the shoes are resting very close to the drums.
-adjust the handbrake cable end nut until the drums starts to grip after 1 click and is fully engaged after 6-8 clicks
-lower car back down
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now to adjust the throttle pedal to rest as low as possible.
the top of the pedal arm rests on a thin rubber stopper which determines how high it rests.
how low the pedal stops at is determined either by when it hits the plastic stopper on the floor if the throttle cables too slack or by the cable if its too tight and the TB has fully opened before the pedals reached the floor.
what i do is adjust the throttle cables tension via its position on the TB support bracket till the pedal Just touches the plastic block when the TB is at WOT.
now there'll be some slack between where the pedal rests and where it begins to move the cable. to take up this unwanted slack i thicken up the rubber stopper, ziptied a spare bicycle brake pad in this case.
now the pedal should rest at its lowest position while still having full travel.
(and that would give you the amount of extra travel on the pedal)
