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F

Aye Gr8 log.

That dead rat was rank. It's a good thing it didn't advance as bad as the "fly infested soup" stage, I once saw that and almost puked.
 
Defiantly a rookie question but I'm new to the game How are you controlling your psi?? Is the waste gate controlling it? (Please don't be too harsh if this is a stupid question haha)
 
lookin good RYB :cool: the front mount does bugger all (i ran without it for years) and the 2 side mounts basically just hold the weight of the engine and box, the rear one takes most of the torque forces and is easily uprated with a small block of rubber

84183 (2).jpg
 
RYB said:
Another thing I've noticed is just how easy this little gt15 spools.
Now I have two routes to work. The most direct is jumping on the motorway 5 minutes from my house and exiting the motorway 10 minutes from my work.
Or back roads way which as long as you don't get stuck behind a lorry or tractor is nearly as quick.
On dual carriageways I've noticed holding the car at 70mph means 2.5-3 psi of boost part throttle. This constantly for about 10 minutes doesn't sound too good to me with my limited fuel setup, whereas I can drive on and off boost the back roads way as I please.
An idea I had to solve this is to fit a twist locking choke cable to the wastegate to hold it open and reduce boost on the motorway.
If anyone could offer some insight on this whether or not they think I'm a moron or not feel free, the choke cable will be here for next weekend
Also did a plug check with some new plugs I fitted during the turbo fitting. Seem spot on to be honest, if a smidge rich on idle. They're looking a little warm on heat range, which isn't alarm bells but with a conservative setup I need to err on the side of caution so I'll be picking one step closer plugs tomorrow and I'll just have to hope I don't have problems with fouling.


GT15 turbo cg10de(t) @ 7psi
Click to expand...
my last setup (td04 on a 1.3) would register about -5psi (ie, vacuum) at 65 mph cruise, and would,nt show any boost till about 80 mph
my current diesel (similar turbo to yours on a 1.7) shows about +5psi at 65 mph
where is the gauge piped into btw ?
 
RYB said:
I've got it piped into a T piece on the wastegate line between the wastegate nipple and the nipple on on the turbo itself. I didn't want to tap off the fpr feed as I've already tee'd into this for the rrfpr so don't want to 'overload' this source.




GT15 turbo cg10de(t) @ 7psi
Click to expand...
ahh, its chargepipe pressure you are seeing then mate (pre throttleplate) you need to read mani pressure on a petrol engine really, because of the throttleplate
 
RYB said:
Ahhhh so mani pressure may actually show a lot less under these conditions?
Good to know. To be honest I'll leave it how it is for now, it's working fine and being a pressure gauge rather than compound gauge I don't know if it'll like vacuum pulling on it.


GT15 turbo cg10de(t) @ 7psi
Click to expand...
yes, at cruise you probably have +2 psi blowing onto the front of the throttle plate, and about -5 psi sucking against the back of the throttle plate
i used this draper gauge on mine (vacuum and 10psi pressure) £10 ish, but had to get a gauge like yours for the diesel

$_57.jpg
 
well done ryb :cool: proved the naysayers wrong eh ;) proof that a cg10 can run safely half a bar on the stock coilpack ecu
one of the biggest track improvements i did was the rear bias valve delete, i found i could brake a lot later and corner a bit slower
 
RYB said:
As you can see I also haggard cut the grill out nismo-esque. Not sure if I regret that decision or not!
Personally I'm more about how the car feels to drive rather than chasing speed and grip etc so next up was changing things up for driver feel.
30fe824e82d7524c85ddd009ac7a1a71.jpg

Got myself a racing steering wheel (budget but quality from McGill Motorsport I believe)
Also got a new gear knob which there's a photo of later.
Bought some JDM porn for inspiration:
cdec6ad47321d6cb91e7a76a7a371417.jpg

And fitted some tacho clocks:
d69643fd53a01fe106ed8deb5a589b82.jpg




GT15 turbo cg10de(t) @ 7psi
Click to expand...
From where to get tacho clocks?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Hi Ryb, love you blog and builds on both cars! I’m currently starting to work on a turbo build myself, this is on a dizzy 1.0. Was your fuel setup simply ga16 injectors and fmu regulator? Did you have to retard the spark any? I believe all I need is turbo, mani, injectors, fmu reg and intercooler? Is this correct? Thanks in advance, any help is much appreciated ?
 
Making good progress mate.
Did you need to modify/fabricate custom brackets for the mini rad? Is it bigger/thicker than standard?
I've been looking for an uprated radiator and it seems that there aren't any Micra specific ones available, which is boring.
 
I always fit an oil cooler system on my turbo cars- can't believe some don't come with them from the factory, help no end with engine temps.

The only problem with coolers on these is the space available! Going to be fitting an ic and looking to sort an improved rad (thanks for the info), which will mean I'll also need to sort a transmission cooler seen as though my cube is CVT. I might have to go in the front arches with some ducts/feeds.

Where did you get your rr fpr? I was looking at getting a 12:1 for a project last year but they only seemed available from America?

Have you considered running meth from the tank rather than injection as a cheaper alternative to weigh up the pros vs cost?
 
Auto micra rads have the heat exchanger at the bottom to cool the auto boxes, could rejig one of them for cooling oil. Although you're dumping oil heat into the coolant so not ideal, plus you have your rad sorted already. They're around 10mm thicker than stock manual ones though

Sent from my SM-G903F using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Yeah I know they do mate, that was my reasoning behind getting a bigger rad and then running a cooler separate. Since I'll be going turbo wasn't sure how CVT boxes cope with more heat/power.

Didn't realise auto's were bigger, that's good to know.

You'd think there'd be off the shelf twin core alloy rads though wouldn't you, especially considering that they're quite popular.
 
That looks ideal Frank.

Was originally going to just go with an FMU and wideband but with it being my daily driver I'm going to use Emanage or Nistune and get it mapped properly.
 

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