Just been reading about E10 fuel. We have a K12 on a 54 reg plate, went to the gov website to check compatibility, it said all Nissan engines since 2000 were fine. I was hoping for a more specific answer. Does anybody know about compatibility, or the effects of E10 on fuel consumption and performance?
E10 in a K12
- Thread starter PeterA
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It's fine, same as any other modern engine. E10 is just a way for them to seem more eco-conscious, you'll see a bit worse fuel economy since ethanol is less energy dense, but the car will perform the same since the octane rating will be equal (higher ethanol content = higher octane for quality, performance fuels, but in this case the higher ethanol is used to raise the octane rating of ****ty fuel to be on par with normal fuels. Its also a fair wack cheaper than real high octane racing petrol, hence E85 being the fuel of choice for seriously fast street cars)
TLDR - Ethanol is used to seem eco friendly, but is really because its cheaper and bumps up octane rating. Fuel economy will go down a tad, performance stays the same.
TLDR - Ethanol is used to seem eco friendly, but is really because its cheaper and bumps up octane rating. Fuel economy will go down a tad, performance stays the same.
Thanks for that. Lots of articles out there warning that E10 fuel can cause all sorts of problems with older cars, like fuel line blockages, and the gov website states they accept no responsibility for any damage caused by using E10 fuel in a non-compatible car.
Ethanol eats rubber and plastic so the more of it in the fuel, the worse. Cars produced after 2000 should be OK. But the government has said it will protect e5 fuel for 5 years, so like me, just look on the pump for e5 before you fill up.
Sent from my SM-A505FN using Micra Sports Club mobile app
Sent from my SM-A505FN using Micra Sports Club mobile app
E10 fuel works well on none carburettor models,as fuel injection is the way to go, thankfully my Micra is diesel, but my other Suzuki's are petrol which will work ok, but I will be using premium unleaded anyway. here is a list of car Manufactures recommendations in relation to E10 fuel. 
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I was just reading about the new fuel and it said when the weather is hot can expect engine. (Vapour lock)
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We refuel, today and since I'm not filling up. E10 went in.
No sign of other fuels at this station just diesel. Get at Morrison's I believe they are shell group and did not expect any E5 to be available since they switched 1st September as far as I've read.
And to be specific its now going to be run on around 95% E10 fuel.
Will have to see how long it lasts my last fuel lasted me around 2 months or more
And cost nearly half the amount.
The car runs just about the same but I do not think it will thank me for the E10 ? Will see how it goes k12's are listed as compatible.
On the upside I'm going to get the coolant changed as this is around about interval time for renewal.
I'm now using an E bike (built not bought) for my commute so am basically already carbon neutralish. ?
No sign of other fuels at this station just diesel. Get at Morrison's I believe they are shell group and did not expect any E5 to be available since they switched 1st September as far as I've read.
And to be specific its now going to be run on around 95% E10 fuel.
Will have to see how long it lasts my last fuel lasted me around 2 months or more
And cost nearly half the amount.
The car runs just about the same but I do not think it will thank me for the E10 ? Will see how it goes k12's are listed as compatible.
On the upside I'm going to get the coolant changed as this is around about interval time for renewal.
I'm now using an E bike (built not bought) for my commute so am basically already carbon neutralish. ?
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The only issue for me with them is they are really heavy I'm getting about 15 ish mph on 12 ah battery and my range so far if I say average is around 3 miles to and from my place of work I would have traveled some 9 miles to deplete the battery down to just under half so might be worthy of around 17 miles at a push.
(Keeping human power as low as I could)
Some forum was saying it would cost around ten cents to go 100 kilometers.
I'm running on a dual suspension cycle that is well over a decade in age and the only reason I did not convert sooner was the lack of room for components.
It is quicker than I pedal mostly.
Just needing a few adjustments to the wires to improve the looks that are really not one of its best points.
(Keeping human power as low as I could)
Some forum was saying it would cost around ten cents to go 100 kilometers.
I'm running on a dual suspension cycle that is well over a decade in age and the only reason I did not convert sooner was the lack of room for components.
It is quicker than I pedal mostly.
Just needing a few adjustments to the wires to improve the looks that are really not one of its best points.
Really good you are experimenting as I think in the future this will be the only way to go for me I need some real rechargable power utilising a solar and wind hybrid system as the cost of mains electric is going to go through the roof when they get enough electric car out there. We all need to be ahead of the curve and be thinking how we can keep moving without being ripped off.
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This is a before shot of what it looked like as I'm testing the battery placement that is really not in a great place but atm is the best place without drilling the frame and possibly spoiling the bike.
In the future I would like to renew the bike frame and return to a traditional style as the dual shock ones can be very heavy.
Before I forget my original plan was to use 2 18v Makita 5ah batteries that would have dropped the weight significantly.
This would have been the absolute diy method that I decided not to go with as yet.but would give the bike a decent output with 36v matching to the one in the bike less Amps and less watts.
Not sure exact calculation but I did write it down somewhere.
The dual battery method would have ment needing to buy two that will be voltage matched better than adding to a previous purchased one.
One thing that is nice the instant acceleration. And so far I've have no need to use the mechanical gearing.
I will shortly give the bike a hill and see what happens. I already am aware that a slight incline hill drops the speed to 12 13 mph.
The aim I had was to make commute more fun and slightly quicker.
It's definitely way more fun and I have knocked about 10 minutes off the time.
In the future I would like to renew the bike frame and return to a traditional style as the dual shock ones can be very heavy.
Before I forget my original plan was to use 2 18v Makita 5ah batteries that would have dropped the weight significantly.
This would have been the absolute diy method that I decided not to go with as yet.but would give the bike a decent output with 36v matching to the one in the bike less Amps and less watts.
Not sure exact calculation but I did write it down somewhere.
The dual battery method would have ment needing to buy two that will be voltage matched better than adding to a previous purchased one.
One thing that is nice the instant acceleration. And so far I've have no need to use the mechanical gearing.
I will shortly give the bike a hill and see what happens. I already am aware that a slight incline hill drops the speed to 12 13 mph.
The aim I had was to make commute more fun and slightly quicker.
It's definitely way more fun and I have knocked about 10 minutes off the time.
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The bike that i built was a standard frame and used industrial pipe brackets to hold the engine in place, as for rear suspension i used a standard seat with a shock absorbing seat post to take out the vibrations. the lighter the bike and also the thinner the tyres the better range and speed you will get. its all about reducing weight and drag. any way as for the E10 fuel if you intend not to use the fuel for a while its better to usemost of it up and leave it with super unleaded (e5) or standard e5 if you can find it, better for the tanks and pipe work especially with colder weather coming!
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This is a before shot of what it looked like as I'm testing the battery placement that is really not in a great place but atm is the best place without drilling the frame and possibly spoiling the bike.
In the future I would like to renew the bike frame and return to a traditional style as the dual shock ones can be very heavy
It will probably be the last E10 that I fuel it up with I can understand what will happen as the pipes especially rubber will not last very long.
As the higher levels in the fuel won't do them much good.
I think by my next visit the E5 will have been installed and if not I will look else where.
This is going to reduce emissions but also take a lot of nice motors down with it.
In the future I would like to renew the bike frame and return to a traditional style as the dual shock ones can be very heavy
This was my intention to just get the e5 regardless of price but just to stick with the same fuel.
It will probably be the last E10 that I fuel it up with I can understand what will happen as the pipes especially rubber will not last very long.
As the higher levels in the fuel won't do them much good.
I think by my next visit the E5 will have been installed and if not I will look else where.
This is going to reduce emissions but also take a lot of nice motors down with it.
Yes you can but you will loose about 6-percent and a little bit of power but if you add
Yes you can use E10 in your car but you will loose about 6 percent off your mileage but to help with that add dipetane at filling a tank follow the instructions for amount to add to each 10 litres
The logic that ethanol is less energy dense than traditional petrol. 6% is a ridiculous number though, more realistically it would be < 3% from 0% to 10% ethanol at a push,
Mika The Finn
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Finnish E10 is 95 octane and we have 98 octane available also.
Camaro is hybrid, it burns fuel and tires.
Camaro is hybrid, it burns fuel and tires.
My Micra is Diesel, however my suzuki's run on petrol and I use an additive to offset the ethanol dilution of the petrol at the pumps. uk E10 is 95 octane and super unleaded is 97 octane but still at E 5 ethanol blend. so really it's a choice.
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Does that have to be measured to a set amount of liters.
Now its getting colder an update I hear a change when I start up..
Sounds like a slight struggle not sure if the fuel or battery wants a charge up again.
The only other thing has changed. Since I put the E10 in.
I'm not starting the car as frequently so instead of every day its only getting ever 2 days sometimes 3.
Just thought I would share this as it's probably almost pure E10 at this point although it did slightly mix.
Now its getting colder an update I hear a change when I start up..
Sounds like a slight struggle not sure if the fuel or battery wants a charge up again.
The only other thing has changed. Since I put the E10 in.
I'm not starting the car as frequently so instead of every day its only getting ever 2 days sometimes 3.
Just thought I would share this as it's probably almost pure E10 at this point although it did slightly mix.
Mika The Finn
Site Supporter
My Micra vehicle started with our E10/95oct in -29C°, after 48 hours of non starting/driving.
Starter turned engine few times and 1.6 liter 'Big-Block' was awake/live...
I use a 200Ml bottle and put it in the tank and put 20 Litres of E10 in the tank, or you can use 100Ml bottle and put 10 Litres of fuel in Etc. Once this additive gets to work after a good run, you will have cleaned most of the internal gum and tarnish from the injectors and carbon from top of pistons, Once all this crap is blown out of the system I would recommend replacing the spark plugs with Iridium if you can afford it, the car will fire up and run a lot better regardless of Temperature, infact the colder the fuel the better the combustion in the engine. that's why they use intercoolers on diesel engines!
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