Hi all. Anyone know the torque setting for the two retaining bolts for the distributor? I thought I would just make sure it was the correct torque. Many Thanks.
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Distributor retaining bolt torque
- Thread starter micrabulgariatroy
- Start date
many thanks. i piut a new o ring on the distributor. the one i got was from a generic o ring assortment box that my local auto part supply shop had behind the counter. despite aligning the key type metal rotor, it was still pretty difficult to pop in - but eventually it made that slight cork popping sound and the body of the dizzy became flush with the block. i understand that the K11 is notorious for leaking there. Happy progress though. Cheers
What size are these? I lost one and been putting off replacing it but then I snapped the remaining soldier. loool. Need to grab some new ones. Are they M10x1.5 @30mm?
Alas, don't torque them too tight...
Alas, don't torque them too tight...
I broke one retaining bolt. One of the two retaining bolts. I had the same leak issue. Must you purchase a nissan produced bolt to replace it? Salvage yard? Or can you go to a hardware store/shop that sells bolts and screws. There are some here that have quality bolts for auto replacement purposes. I ask because the center portion, along the length of the bolt, for some reason, is thinner and has somewhat of different thread spacing. The end of the bolt, in other words, bulges out - is larger. Not sure why.
If you're talking about the bolt you broke, then yes it will have stretched so that the threads look coarser and of a smaller diameter.
If you're talking about the bolt you haven't broken then it's about to!
They are standard pitch M8 (I think standard pitch is 1.25). I can't remember how long. If A2 snapped then get 10.8 and buy 2.
Plus points for replacing them with allen cap-heads
If you're talking about the bolt you haven't broken then it's about to!
They are standard pitch M8 (I think standard pitch is 1.25). I can't remember how long. If A2 snapped then get 10.8 and buy 2.
Plus points for replacing them with allen cap-heads
You can get away without any bolts.
Is 10.8 a more quality steel? I wrote a breakdown yard in the Netherlands. Netherlands said they have lots and lots of them because they are also the intake manifold. They list it as a M7.75 x 24.5 (description: can be used for intake manifold or distributor). I had no idea that that is the reason - that it is stretching. Amazing. OK, So I will order more than 1, I guess 4, and for sure replace the one that is sure to break soon also.
Any idea what the torque is? I looked and looked through Haynes and for some reason it is not in there or I am missing it.
Allen cap heads? Wow, I think I just stick to the hex head. I'm thankful I could vice grip the broken bolt out for now. Wh
Any idea what the torque is? I looked and looked through Haynes and for some reason it is not in there or I am missing it.
Allen cap heads? Wow, I think I just stick to the hex head. I'm thankful I could vice grip the broken bolt out for now. Wh
Crikey mate that's a specimen there! I'd keep that and put in an epoxy cube or a plaque!
M7.75 is daft, the nominal size of an M8 is 7.75mm, and yes the 10.8 is harder to squeeze your o-ring down but you risk breaking something else since the bolt is no longer your break point. I'd suggest getting another o-ring, and the bolts should be new not old from a scrappy.
torque I'm going to go with 20Nm but I don't know. You're right about hex heads.
That's a clean bay also!
M7.75 is daft, the nominal size of an M8 is 7.75mm, and yes the 10.8 is harder to squeeze your o-ring down but you risk breaking something else since the bolt is no longer your break point. I'd suggest getting another o-ring, and the bolts should be new not old from a scrappy.
torque I'm going to go with 20Nm but I don't know. You're right about hex heads.
That's a clean bay also!
