CMF_Raceworx
» CMF Member
hey i was wondering if anyone had any info on what kind of power the datrats pistons and rods could hold up under??? who uses them? also are the flywheels and clutches any good?
Datrats parts
- Thread starter CMF_Raceworx
- Start date
CMF_Tony
» CMF MemberGood question mate! Would also be very interested to no as i am wanting to build a quick but reliable micra aswell.
cisco
» CMF MemberThose pistons and rods will handle anything you can throw at them, they are extremely chunky..
I reckon other parts such as crank, gaskets etc would go before these items would give way..
The pistons lower the compression to 8.2:1. I have ran 20.7psi boost peak with all this gear, and no problems whatsoever. And consistently running 17psi every day. So if you were thinking of running more than 20psi, you be making some pretty serious power, but I think the pistons would still be fine etc. And then you would still be making in excess of 150kw at the wheels. I think the pistons and rods would happily see 200kw at the wheels assuming you had a strong enough drivetrain, crank and other stuff to support it.
Mulholland overseas make race cranks that rev out to 10,000RPM. I think you couldn't do anything more to enhance these pistons and rods..
White Knight has these pistons and rods, so does my car. Not sure if any other cars have used them yet, but the pistons are actually made by SPS pistons in Australia who have a top reputation for making pistons for almost all vehicles.. The rods are made by PAR who make stuff for heaps of high performance stuff, they are again one of the best names in the business. They are EXTREMELY oversized for the micra, ultra strong. Not recommended for NA micra engines because they will add a bit of extra weight and you don't need such strength for NA. Datrats just re-sells them.
I can also highly recommend the Datrats clutches. Errol is highly onto the clutch scene, and has the best options for micra heavy duty clutches available and for superb prices. My clutch in blue monster isn't worth a lot, and it NEVER slips with up around 150kw at the wheels running through it. Highly impressed with it.
Errol's flywheels are great also. I think thicker in volume of metal than the JUNs and Errol reckons that this will make them less vulnerable to overheating which I have found to be a potential problem with the JUNs when you stuff up a gear change or launch big time and let the full power of the engine go through the clutch accidentally.. But Errol reckons the Datrats ones would be better than the JUN in this respect because the JUN is quite thin. But an awesome flywheel apart from that.
Every since my big full engine rebuild with all this gear, I can honestly say, the internals of the engine have always felt 100% rock solid ultra reliable and happy every time I drive the car. It feels like I can trust the engine, no dodgy noises, superb smooth power delivery, I never get any blow by in my car either, I think the engine is just sweet as. I'm not sure which piston rings they used, but it was actually a very sweet job. Now I am confident at throwing whatever boost at it and knowing it won't snap on me. I am always more worried about the gearbox..
I reckon other parts such as crank, gaskets etc would go before these items would give way..
The pistons lower the compression to 8.2:1. I have ran 20.7psi boost peak with all this gear, and no problems whatsoever. And consistently running 17psi every day. So if you were thinking of running more than 20psi, you be making some pretty serious power, but I think the pistons would still be fine etc. And then you would still be making in excess of 150kw at the wheels. I think the pistons and rods would happily see 200kw at the wheels assuming you had a strong enough drivetrain, crank and other stuff to support it.
Mulholland overseas make race cranks that rev out to 10,000RPM. I think you couldn't do anything more to enhance these pistons and rods..
White Knight has these pistons and rods, so does my car. Not sure if any other cars have used them yet, but the pistons are actually made by SPS pistons in Australia who have a top reputation for making pistons for almost all vehicles.. The rods are made by PAR who make stuff for heaps of high performance stuff, they are again one of the best names in the business. They are EXTREMELY oversized for the micra, ultra strong. Not recommended for NA micra engines because they will add a bit of extra weight and you don't need such strength for NA. Datrats just re-sells them.
I can also highly recommend the Datrats clutches. Errol is highly onto the clutch scene, and has the best options for micra heavy duty clutches available and for superb prices. My clutch in blue monster isn't worth a lot, and it NEVER slips with up around 150kw at the wheels running through it. Highly impressed with it.
Errol's flywheels are great also. I think thicker in volume of metal than the JUNs and Errol reckons that this will make them less vulnerable to overheating which I have found to be a potential problem with the JUNs when you stuff up a gear change or launch big time and let the full power of the engine go through the clutch accidentally.. But Errol reckons the Datrats ones would be better than the JUN in this respect because the JUN is quite thin. But an awesome flywheel apart from that.
Every since my big full engine rebuild with all this gear, I can honestly say, the internals of the engine have always felt 100% rock solid ultra reliable and happy every time I drive the car. It feels like I can trust the engine, no dodgy noises, superb smooth power delivery, I never get any blow by in my car either, I think the engine is just sweet as. I'm not sure which piston rings they used, but it was actually a very sweet job. Now I am confident at throwing whatever boost at it and knowing it won't snap on me. I am always more worried about the gearbox..
CMF_Raceworx
» CMF Memberwhat head gasget do you sue cisco?? the plan is to use all the datrats bottom end parts in an auto block iv got some avanti cams for the top end a hks cast manifold with a gT25R build a custom inlet manifold to house an sR20 TB im just thinking about head gasgets if needs be i can get a custom crank made up 
cisco
» CMF MemberAWESOME!
Custom made 1mm aluminium gadket mate with O-ringed block. If you are going big power like the sounds of it, definately get your block O-ringed and a metal head gasket etc.
What kind of figures are you aiming for here, its sounding pretty serious from what I can gather already. Just what we need, some big hi-po micras.
Do you have anything in mind for your gearbox?
And for the crank, I think the Mulholland ones are mainly because of running such high RPMs for their 10,000rpm NA racing engines. For a turbo engine running <8000rpm, I think crank should be fairly tough. I would just leave it stock but make sure its all balanced perfectly etc, possibly knife edge it, but just see how it goes.. I think mine will be fine, rods and pistons are the big thing..
Custom made 1mm aluminium gadket mate with O-ringed block. If you are going big power like the sounds of it, definately get your block O-ringed and a metal head gasket etc.
What kind of figures are you aiming for here, its sounding pretty serious from what I can gather already. Just what we need, some big hi-po micras.
Do you have anything in mind for your gearbox?
And for the crank, I think the Mulholland ones are mainly because of running such high RPMs for their 10,000rpm NA racing engines. For a turbo engine running <8000rpm, I think crank should be fairly tough. I would just leave it stock but make sure its all balanced perfectly etc, possibly knife edge it, but just see how it goes.. I think mine will be fine, rods and pistons are the big thing..
CMF_Polar
» CMF Memberinfo from the micra kit car people is that the micra cranks kept breaking when the cg13 got to 150+bhp. this is NA with turbo it wouldnt be as stressed i would assume. i guess thats why mulholland made a crank for there over 150bhp NA setups.
i think the driveshafts are a weak link in terms of high power turbos in the k11. but depends on how much power you want to lay down traction wise as to how worn out they get. but must be a bit of a compromise to go easy on the laucnhes or have not the best tyres so they dont break the transmission.
i think the driveshafts are a weak link in terms of high power turbos in the k11. but depends on how much power you want to lay down traction wise as to how worn out they get. but must be a bit of a compromise to go easy on the laucnhes or have not the best tyres so they dont break the transmission.
CMF_Raceworx
» CMF Memberi was defo thinking about the 0 ring'd block but im still unsure where to get a gasget made up at i sure ill find somewhere with reaserch..
for the Gbox i was thinking about a standard one with dog cut gear set from a company here in the uk and a griper LSD. i can get drive shafts made up if they go...
the only thing i carnt get sorted yet for a reasonable cost is the damn ECU!!!
for the Gbox i was thinking about a standard one with dog cut gear set from a company here in the uk and a griper LSD. i can get drive shafts made up if they go...
the only thing i carnt get sorted yet for a reasonable cost is the damn ECU!!!
CMF_jaxx
» CMF Memberi can get a 080†copper head gasket made up bore size will be 72.40mm, mine is being made up now in the states. i could always tell him to duplicate another one or two. he is also making my forged pistons and rods. around 8 week for the lot.
hope this is good info for you.
hope this is good info for you.
cisco
» CMF MemberThe great thing about turbos is that it delivers the extra torque inside the cylinders throughout the entire stroke. Its not like the initial bang/explosion is bigger, but it continues to push hard right throughout the stroke, where as non-turbo is like a big bang, then its just using momentum from the explosion.. That's one of the cool reasons why at the same RPM a turbo can make a lot more torque but not necessarily put more stress on the engine (within reasonable boost levels).
Yes agree, I think the gearbox is one of the weakest links. My 31V box seems the goods so far, but like you said, I have fairly cheap tyres that spin semi-easily, and that's one thing I don't mind. They still grip fairly well and the car can go very fast, but it gives me a bit more comfort in thinking that I'm not raping the gearbox. If it ever dies, Cogs and bearings from the aussie 31A gearbox should fit in no worries, mostly only the diff housing is different. So that's one good thing. But yeah need to keep driving the car and see how it goes. The VLSD is cool for exiting corners with, but didn't help too much directly when launching in a straight line.
Yes agree, I think the gearbox is one of the weakest links. My 31V box seems the goods so far, but like you said, I have fairly cheap tyres that spin semi-easily, and that's one thing I don't mind. They still grip fairly well and the car can go very fast, but it gives me a bit more comfort in thinking that I'm not raping the gearbox. If it ever dies, Cogs and bearings from the aussie 31A gearbox should fit in no worries, mostly only the diff housing is different. So that's one good thing. But yeah need to keep driving the car and see how it goes. The VLSD is cool for exiting corners with, but didn't help too much directly when launching in a straight line.
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CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberYou haven't driven on real tyres for a long time if you think those N2000's grip OK cisco...
The 31A gearboxes in the states seem to be able to handle a fair bit of power without too much trouble. Some of them get raced as well and apart from wearing out alot quicker, they don't seem to be quite as fragile as the 32A & 32V series gearboxes that the FWD pulsar SR20DET boys have to use.
In the end though it all comes down to how you treat it. Slamming gears etc is going to get you an expensive repair bill with any sort of power output.
The 31A gearboxes in the states seem to be able to handle a fair bit of power without too much trouble. Some of them get raced as well and apart from wearing out alot quicker, they don't seem to be quite as fragile as the 32A & 32V series gearboxes that the FWD pulsar SR20DET boys have to use.
In the end though it all comes down to how you treat it. Slamming gears etc is going to get you an expensive repair bill with any sort of power output.