I'll crack the lock nut and twiddle the thumb wheel.
I wonder why it's adjusted way back like that? I've had no problems with the clutch slipping.
That makes a lot of sense, thanks!when a new thicker clutch plate is installed, the thumbscrew is tightened all the way up so that when the pedal is pushed, the clutch fork pushes on the diaphram far enough to release the pressure plate away off the plate.
as the clutch wears down thinner you have to annually unscrew that nut down the cable till the bitepoints bout 1/2 way.
when the nut is close to the end of the cable thread, it's time to replace the clutch
if the bite point was too high when the screw was all the way up but now too low after unscrewing it, you may have unscrewed it too far.
tighten it back up to the top position where the bite was very high, start engine handbrake on locknut still loose, select gear and check bitepoint.
if its above 1/2 way, select neutral, loosen the thumbscrew 2 turns, check bitepoint again.
when its correct tighten the locknut up
Was at the very top, no more thread leftwasn't it at the very top to begin with like u shown in the pic?
Biting point is really high on my car, this is how the thumb wheel adjuster looks
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Is it adjusted as far as it'll go previously and my clutch needs changing?
Or can I lower the biting point some more?
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I can't remember, such a long time ago.it same as my other facelift. did you see this cap (it looks like beer cap). does this cap need to go to half way back?