CHANGING DIZZY HELP PLEASE

I am going to be changing my dizzy for a replacement part from a breakers, im faily good with the spanners but just wanted some confirmation from someone whom has done this, in my haynes it statescheck cylinder head anddistributor flange for aligntment marks, if there are none scribe or use relevant pen, i was just wondering if most carry marks and if not at exactly what point do i mark them up, i assume on the head i mark the inner flange that the dizzy sits on( the flat face with the bolt holes) but where on the old dizzy do i mark and why as this is being discarded, is this so i can turn the replacement part to roughly the same position to save retiming?? any info on where to sharpie the marks would be helpull as haynes just writes it but does not show you, if anyone could put a scetch up that would be great!( dont need to be rolf!) just need to know what im marking any why, i assume its so i dont have to retime if i match the marks on the removed one with the position on the new one, then match this to the cylinder head marks. i just need to know where on the head and flange to mark if there are none as id like to get it in and running without hsving to retime as i dont have the tools fot this or the cash! any help appreciated, and drawings/scetchs would be great! thanks guys!
 
yes score the head face, but dont worry too much about the timing, and i always lift the cam cover to make sure the offset drive is inserted properly
 
I usually only mark the backside of the dizzy where it touches the head at the front bolt hole using the flat to scribe a mark (thats probably not a very good description, but if you look at the dizzy on the car you should see what i'm on about :D).

You can mark up both if you wish, but you'll be setting the new part to match the old one and you might need to tweak it slightly anyway.

So i'd just mark the old one, then transfer the mark over to the new one. :)

I also just use a flat head screwdriver to make the mark.
 
Frank i just remove the old dizzy carefully, sit it next to the new one, match the offset lobes and steady hand it back in. :)
 
thanks guys, i think ill score the dizzy and cam cover near the bolt hole, transfer it and refit, it should be fairly in time, and as you say you can move it slightly to smooth it out cant you??
 
and thanks to you guys on here, you have all been great help, are there any relays linked to this in the 5 i can find(3 blue under dash, 2 blue 1 black under bonnet) just to be sure i wanted to check these have nothing to do with the spark?
 
just to add boys, i intend changing it with all the cam cover on, plugs in etc as haynes says this ok as long as you mark, is this ri9ght as i dont want to have to retime, it reads as if quite a sinple job as long as you get your marks right, which i think I HOPE!) i understand, cheers guys, any help really appreciated as could do with this running as if not its going to cost me a job!
 
well thanks guys, got the dizzy out nice and easy today, saw what you meant and used a fine sharpie to place a line on the dizzy bolt holes across to the head, so if i transfer the marks to the other dizzy when it arrives it should not be far out should it??? its just a case then if a little rough of lossening the nuts and advancing or retarding the dizzy till it smooths out am i correct??? just waitinfg on the new part, 54 quid with vat and postage which is better than the £380 they want new! although this is without the rotor arm or dizzy cap as these i brought new as the old ones were worn so i tried this first! thanks for all your help guys, ill keep you posted on the outcome, but everyone i have spoke to on here, 3 mechanics and my step dad who is a tractor engineer all reckon its the dizzy as no spark whatsoever! so thanks guys, was actually an easy job, took all of half hour 45 mins!
 
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