Changing Clutch - What Do I Need?
- Thread starter Ashers
- Start date
clutch from a breakers yards your best bet, if not then go for ebay.
Best to have a torque wrench on hand
you'll need a clutch alignment tool aswell as spanners ect.
As a word of warning dont take the job as a piece of ####, it's likely that you'll need plenty of time ( a good weekend) and more info then the haynes manual. Good luck with it though.
Best to have a torque wrench on hand
you'll need a clutch alignment tool aswell as spanners ect.As a word of warning dont take the job as a piece of ####, it's likely that you'll need plenty of time ( a good weekend) and more info then the haynes manual. Good luck with it though.
Paul Smith
Site Supporter
i think someone should do an idiots guide to clutch changing that would be handy
Robb
Site Supporter
Agreed with the guide, my brain only works with pictures and the haynes is silly, it gives you more pictures on how to take the stock air intake off than to do the actual job! And mine's starting to shudder on the bite (early signs?) and i want to look at the fly too (and the cga is a bit different so i'd need extra help lol)!
Hey, i just recently changed the clutch on my k11 1.0.
To be truely honest, it was a nightmare to do. but if you want a hand. i can try my best to give it on here
First off, get the car on axle stands, have the wheels off, (get someone to press the brakes in so u can take them off without them spinning.
then you need to remove the driveshafts,both of them, so its more bolt undoing.
once uve done that, ur gonna need a trolley jack to hold the engine up, since ur gonna have to remove a lot of bolts and the mounts, remember to drain your engine oil and transmission oil first before doing this, your battery and casing needs to come out.
the starter motor needs to come out too.
you'll then need to undo the clutch cable thats just under the battery casing.
once the bolts have been taken off, the casing just needs prising off, replace the clutch as required,
then just do all of the above in reverse.
but whatever you do, before you put the starter motor in, remove the speedo drive and place the transmission oil in (80w/90 Typically about £4 for a litre which is more than enough), then put the speedo drive back in, and then continue with putting it back together
To be truely honest, it was a nightmare to do. but if you want a hand. i can try my best to give it on here
First off, get the car on axle stands, have the wheels off, (get someone to press the brakes in so u can take them off without them spinning.
then you need to remove the driveshafts,both of them, so its more bolt undoing.
once uve done that, ur gonna need a trolley jack to hold the engine up, since ur gonna have to remove a lot of bolts and the mounts, remember to drain your engine oil and transmission oil first before doing this, your battery and casing needs to come out.
the starter motor needs to come out too.
you'll then need to undo the clutch cable thats just under the battery casing.
once the bolts have been taken off, the casing just needs prising off, replace the clutch as required,
then just do all of the above in reverse.
but whatever you do, before you put the starter motor in, remove the speedo drive and place the transmission oil in (80w/90 Typically about £4 for a litre which is more than enough), then put the speedo drive back in, and then continue with putting it back together
Why drain the engine oil it should just be the gearbox oil.Also if you split the driveshafts by the inner cv boots/joints ie leave the inner cv joints in gearbox you will not have to drain the gearbox =it saves all the hassle and time refilling the oil via speedo drive.I hope this helps-Jon
wow that seem to be the hard way round heres how i do it at work.
osf wheel off
remove battery
remove air intake
remove starter
lossen all gearbox bolts at the top and remove
remove clutch cable
drain oil
pop osf driveshaft out
remove all cables underneath
pop nsf driveshaft out slighty so it isnt in gearbox
remove crank sensor
undo underneath bolts support box
on the bolts in the rubber boot that goes to the engine suport arm leave
them in the unit easier to refit then
pop the box out
remove clutch cover
remove clutch
inspect and refit new one
at work this takes approx 2/3hrs from start to finish this was done on a 98 1.3 micra but it all the same really even on the ga engines
osf wheel off
remove battery
remove air intake
remove starter
lossen all gearbox bolts at the top and remove
remove clutch cable
drain oil
pop osf driveshaft out
remove all cables underneath
pop nsf driveshaft out slighty so it isnt in gearbox
remove crank sensor
undo underneath bolts support box
on the bolts in the rubber boot that goes to the engine suport arm leave
them in the unit easier to refit then
pop the box out
remove clutch cover
remove clutch
inspect and refit new one
at work this takes approx 2/3hrs from start to finish this was done on a 98 1.3 micra but it all the same really even on the ga engines
frank
Club Member
i always leave shafts in, leave the support member, starter motor, wheels etc on and lower the g/box to the floor
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13785&stc=1&d=1257547668
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13785&stc=1&d=1257547668
Attachments
frank
Club Member
no, that was an engine change pic to show the starter and shafts etc in situ, the g/box will lower to the floor without touching the engine (enough to remove the clutch with ease)
cant find any pics tho :doh:
frank
Club Member
thats how i do it personally nelv, but i have the smaller pre-facelift 1.0 g/box and no sandwich plate between the engine and g/box
cheers for the reply Frank! i gather on the facelift model like we have you can still do it with everything in situ but you only get a 6 inch gap to change the clutch. which should be plenty? still seems easier than disconnecting everything! Do you know if the sandwich plate is a bugger to get in? Thanks!
frank
Club Member
i did a facelift one in the 6 inch gap no probs mate, the outer edge of the friction plate was the same dia as the outer edge of the inner pressure plate, so we just made sure they were level with each other to centralise it (there was no way of getting a centering tool in)
the sandwich plate went over the driveshaft too iirc, but it went back together fine
the sandwich plate went over the driveshaft too iirc, but it went back together fine
frank
Club Member
np mate
the slam panel, battery tray and rad are easy to remove, then the access is pretty good for a FWD car 
