Changing 1.0 Headgasket -all systems go !!

[john279]

Replaced headgasket today, although not finished putting everything back.

1) In my headset with all the parts/gaskets there is a Rubber Strip for the Timing Cover.

Where does this go, as my car didn't have one & not sure where it should go ??

any suggestions ??

I'm now reassembling everything.
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The retainer plate for the oil pump gear is sticking up, it doesn't look right.

I''m not sure why it's doing that as the assembling is very simple.
I took before/after photos during the headgasket change of the oil pump gear assembly.

See photos, any ideas why it's doing that & if it's wrong ??


Before disassembly

After reassembly

Ps: why does this forum do Automerge Doublepost on different messages !!??
It's annoying messages on 2 different subjects are merged.
.

 

[frank]

spot the deliberate mistake lol

 

[john279]

spot the deliberate mistake lol

That plate should be underneath, shouldn't it !!??

But my Haynes manual section 1.5, Fig 4.17 shows it on top !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What's going on.

Oh well.

 

[john279]

1) Should the inside of the Rocker Cover have a rubber seal along edge of different metal sections ??

When I was cleaning it I pulled off some long straggly bits of rubber, at first assumed they were part of gasket.

Then realised there seemed to be a rubbery seal along edge of different metal sections.

2) My headset with all the gaskets had a rubber strip for the Timing Cover.

Not sure where it shouuld go, as there wasn't one on my car.

Think it may go at very top of timing cover along edge of rocker cover.

Is that correct ??

 

[john279]

2) My headset with all the gaskets had a rubber strip for the Timing Cover.

Not sure where it shouuld go, as there wasn't one on my car.

Think it may go at very top of timing cover along edge of rocker cover.

Is that correct ??

I was in a car breakers & saw where this rubber strip is fitted.

It's fitted around top of Timing Cover.
Before couldn't see how it is fitted as it is very close to Rocker Cover.

I guess if you fit it into groove at top of Timing Cover, then refit Rocker Cover & at same time with screw driver push the edge of the rubber strip up out of way, so rocker cover can go down.
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[john279]

nice one john, how,s the engine running now ?

Finally finished on Friday & engine is running lovely !!! (Y)
Now starts much better, nice & easy at 1st attempt, fantastic.
Woo woo.

1) It was all going to plan on Wednesday early afternoon, just cleaning things up ready to fit Cylinder Head, when stupidly I decided to remove the old gasket on the inlet side of the Head.

The gasket looked in good condition (it looked like thicker black thicker rubber type gasket), but was still firmly attached to head. I thought maybe it's better remove it while head is off, than try to remove it if necessary after head is refitted.

As I tried to remove the old gasket, it wasn't coming off easy. I had a few more goes with a scraper, by then it was too late, I had scratched/gouged into it, I had to remove it.

It was real buggger to get off, took 2+ hours to scrape/chisel the old gasket off the head inlets !!!
Even with a chisel/knife/scraper, it wasn't coming off easy.

2) Refitted the Head on Thursday.

I didn't have time to get the head skimmed & engine had overheated a number of times, so decided to smear the Head & Engine Block surfaces with Hylomar Blue (non-setting sealant putty).

Refitted the Exhaust manifold, exhaust downpipe, rocker cover, fuel & coolant pipes.

3) On Friday refitted Inlet Manifold with Carburettor.

4) When I first tried to start engine it wasn't starting.

Then realised that the HT Lead from Coil & Distributor Cap centre terminal were damaged due to corrosion, when I was removing everything at beginning of job.

When I replaced Distributor Cap & HT Lead, engine fired up after few goes.

And it was idling good, better than it used to, considering I hadn't tuned anything after refitting all the engine parts.

5) At end of Friday as I finished, just as I locked Driver's door, the door handle broke off !!!!!!!!! :doh:
You gotta laugh.

Got replacement door handle from breakers on Saturday, fitted it on Sunday.
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Ps: I'll write up a few tips I found & also put up a library of all my pictures I took for anyone else.

When I checked tuning few days later, Dwell =52 deg, Timing =0 deg BTDC, think timing should be adjusted to 5 deg.
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[Stankamps]

Thanks for that, I am about to do mine. Di you write up the tips and do you have any more pictures? First time for me.

 

[Vogon_Poet]

Many thanks to John279 and everybody else for helping me and give me the courage to start and complete the huge task (for the amateur me) to change the head gasket of my K11 1.0L Micra. It took me two months to decide to proceed in changing the blown head gasket and 4 days to complete the task. I have never ever have attempted to do such a challenging task; till today I was just making simple regular service, like oil, spark plugs change and things like that. Besides of thanking all you folks I want to point some things in order to contribute as well for what it worth - not just receive your knowledge.

• The engine mount should be removed in order to remove the upper timing chains side cover. I did remove for 5 minutes the engine mount, removed the cover, reattached the engine mount in order to make all work remaining in peace of mind. Of course at the end I have to redo this process again.
• You should take off the spark plugs, put gearbox to neutral and turn your cylinder No1 to the highest position. Then mark the positions of camshafts like I did with my yellow paint. Also it's good to make several marks on camshaft or idler sprockets.
• In order to remove sprockets do not put anything (like a big screwdriver for example) on the teeth. These are fragile. I did this and broke a tiny piece of one tooth while attempting this. What I did was to loose the lower bigger sprocket. Loose the first camshaft sprocket by using two same hexagonal keys and then while attempting to loose the other one inevitably you will re-tighten it, but this time with less torque.You will do this a couple of times and finally you will be able to loosen all three bolts. Then loose the upper chain tensioner and then remove the 3 bolts, rings and sprockets (You should remove all three sprockets of the upper chain)
• It is very crucial to take care not to drop anything (outer chain, any of the sprockets, outer rings, or the inner hollow axle of the idler sprocket) down the empty space of lower chain compartment. If you do you 've got trouble..much more work to do, so take care. The rest of the process is a bit straight forward.
• Things that you must absolutely have are a couple of long levers and a torque wrench tool.
• Also you must be aware that there is a certain order how to unscrew all bolts and a certain order how to screw them back. When screwing back all bolts you should follow not only the order but the process as well (angular tightening is called.. google this for K11 Micra or refer to Haynes Manual). First you tighten correctly the head and the camshafts to the head, then you are putting the camshafts in correct position and temporarily fix them gently at this position, then you re-attaching the sprockets back (while taking care not to drop anything down).

Putting everything back is more easy than taking them out.. (or at least I was more confident on this and after 4 days I wanted to complete the task) . The first time is way more slow and challenging.. You 're not quite sure of what you are doing and if you do it the right way. Now that everything ended I think it will be a single day's work if I decide to do this again.

Again many thanks to all.
Cheers!