Canister missing a hose? Micra K11

Hi All, I was putting in a induction kit yesterday for my micra and noticed that a connector on the canister had nothing connected to it. And I was wondering if it's suppose to be like that or if a hose is suppose to be connected to something. I have done nothing to the canister it was like that when I bought the car few months ago

Any help is appreciated

Thanks
 

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Consider closing that hole with something. From your photo's your intake is custom. Just closing that hole might be enough.

Thanks for the reply, but I was just wondering that if I put the stock airbox which I still have. Cover the connector hole that is on the canister made for it to be connected to the airbox.
 
For heavy footed drivers the egr is just a hole in the vacuum. Egr does help emissions though. I'm told but was not able to verify a blocked egr compared with a properly working (and they often do not) egr, will increase fuel consumption. But my Micra was built to race it and after sitting still for many years I decided it will be my daily driver. And it will drive that much that gaining 200 metres per litre fuel will give big savings yearly. I might put back that egr.

This link while pictures are long gone will be helpful https://www.nissanforums.com/threads/diy-egr-valve-removal.170704/

And these pictures will also be helpful,
019-k11-closingholes2.jpg


019-k11-closingholes3.jpg


019-k11-closingholes4.jpg


010-k11-enginebuildup3.jpg


But note that removing egr could give MOT issue depending on local law and that I was aiming to write a nice how to but I wasn't able to get around to it.

And here is my filter solution where the tubing from the valve cover is routed back in to the air intake.
016-micra-custom-luchtfilter.png


Note that this is not a CG engine and that the howto is generic.
 
For heavy footed drivers the egr is just a hole in the vacuum. Egr does help emissions though. I'm told but was not able to verify a blocked egr compared with a properly working (and they often do not) egr, will increase fuel consumption. But my Micra was built to race it and after sitting still for many years I decided it will be my daily driver. And it will drive that much that gaining 200 metres per litre fuel will give big savings yearly. I might put back that egr.

This link while pictures are long gone will be helpful https://www.nissanforums.com/threads/diy-egr-valve-removal.170704/

And these pictures will also be helpful,
019-k11-closingholes2.jpg


019-k11-closingholes3.jpg


019-k11-closingholes4.jpg


010-k11-enginebuildup3.jpg


But note that removing egr could give MOT issue depending on local law and that I was aiming to write a nice how to but I wasn't able to get around to it.

And here is my filter solution where the tubing from the valve cover is routed back in to the air intake.
016-micra-custom-luchtfilter.png


Note that this is not a CG engine and that the howto is generic. But it still is helpful.

Thanks for the amazing advice, but I really don't want to remove the EGR, just want to know where that connector from the canister needs to be connected.

Also with the filter situation, does the tube connect to the value cover breather hole to the intake. As I have filters on both sides at the moment and wondering if the tube is the right way to do it?
 
I get you. I'm not able to tell by your pictures what is the answer but I do know my setup is sound. At first glance I'd say you should remove that filter and put that output to you air intake. That is the usual suspect with custom air filters, many people think venting blow by gasses in to the air is a performance gain, it really isn't.
 
Ok, so your saying the breather pipe (tube) is the right way
I get you. I'm not able to tell by your pictures what is the answer but I do know my setup is sound. At first glance I'd say you should remove that filter and put that output to you air intake. That is the usual suspect with custom air filters, many people think venting blow by gasses in to the air is a performance gain, it really isn't.

Ok, so your saying that the breather pipe (tube), is the right way to do it instead of the breather filters (which I have)
 
Yes. Anything with an o2 sensor will compensate away from ideal mixture when gasses are vented. For performance and emission system contrast of our age (Euro 1) throttle response is the way to go.
 
Yes. Anything with an o2 sensor will compensate away from ideal mixture when gasses are vented. For performance and emission system contrast of our age (Euro 1) throttle response is the way to go.

Will the filters do any harm to engine, as I don't have a breather pipe on me?
 
Not directly. But what I was telling you is meant for performance enthusiasts that prefer more torque at low rpm's over maximum HP. You might loose some maximum HP in the very high rpm range which would hurt circuit performance. Actually venting would help performance in the high rpm range at a loss in the mid and low rpm range. This is because there will be a richer mixture. For street driving it is better to aim for the best possible mixture.

It would be a long write but basically any huge change to you intake or exhaust or circulation will give you better or worse throttle response. Worse throttle response means you gained maximum HP in the high rpm range and better throttle response means you gained torque in the low and mid rpm range with a small loss in the high rpm range.

For circuit drivers, they should just burn as much fuel as they can with the biggest volume of fresh air they can get in. This will get the best lap times but those car's aren't driven in the low and mid rpm ranges. For street drivers low and mid rpm range is just as important as high rpm range. I assumed you are a street driver just like me.
 
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Hi, thanks for the detailed response. First of all, yes I am a street driver and also when I drive my car, with the breather filter setup I have at the moment, I definitely noticed a delay when I press my foot on the accelerator. Do you have any idea on how to get the best possible mixture?
 
Not directly. But what I was telling you is meant for performance enthusiasts that prefer more torque at low rpm's over maximum HP. You might loose some maximum HP in the very high rpm range which would hurt circuit performance. Actually venting would help performance in the high rpm range at a loss in the mid and low rpm range. This is because there will be a richer mixture. For street driving it is better to aim for the best possible mixture.

It would be a long write but basically any huge change to you intake or exhaust or circulation will give you better or worse throttle response. Worse throttle response means you gained maximum HP in the high rpm range and better throttle response means you gained torque in the low and mid rpm range with a small loss in the high rpm range.

For circuit drivers, they should just burn as much fuel as they can with the biggest volume of fresh air they can get in. This will get the best lap times but those car's aren't driven in the low and mid rpm ranges. For street drivers low and mid rpm range is just as important as high rpm range. I assumed you are a street driver just like me.

Hi, thanks for the detailed response. First of all, yes I am a street driver and also when I drive my car, with the breather filter setup I have at the moment, I definitely noticed a delay when I press my foot on the accelerator. So I will have to take a look to see if a breather pipe might fix this issue.

Also, do you have any idea on how to get the best possible mixture?
 
The best possible mixture for a racer is as much fuel that can be burnt. Expect a couple of miles per liter.

The best possible mixture for a street racer, especially with o2 sensor which I assume most and really most people have, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air–fuel_ratio and search for 'Engine management systems'

Such a system is a o2 sensor that tells the computer if there is a certain amount of oxygen left in the exhaust. A lot of oxygen and the computer will lengthen injector times. Not enough oxygen and the computer will shorten the injection times. For both aspirated and economical driving you want this.

On the other hand I happen to own two Nissan's same type engine but one has o2 sensor, the other doesn't. They both have a mass airflow sensor. The silly thing is that my 1 litre to 15 kilometres (approx 9 miles) is something I had to do a lot of work for.

The other car isn't well maintained in several ways and it gave me 1 litre to 14,6 kilometres. This computer can not tell if the exhaust gasses contain a lot of oxygen or not. There are base mappings that are being used. From this perspective having an o2 doen't seem to do much but it is a mandatory part or else the catalyzer will slowly melt and become worthless and you won't pass an emission test this way.

But for your question, your setup looks to like if the o2 sensor is getting less oxygen since you are venting exhaust fumes that do have parts of burnt fuel and burnt fuel comes out with air that has slightly less oxygen then regular air.

By checking your fuel consumption (you will need to create exact usage figures with the same driving (really) on atleast a tank per modifications I need your before and after fuel consumption, your current power gains and your loss to the throttle response, together with spark plug colour which will probably tell if you have a too rich or too lean mixture there. And with bad fuel economy you might expect lean looking spark plugs but this doesn't have to be the case.
 
The best possible mixture for a racer is as much fuel that can be burnt. Expect a couple of miles per liter.

The best possible mixture for a street racer, especially with o2 sensor which I assume most and really most people have, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air–fuel_ratio and search for 'Engine management systems'

Such a system is a o2 sensor that tells the computer if there is a certain amount of oxygen left in the exhaust. A lot of oxygen and the computer will lengthen injector times. Not enough oxygen and the computer will shorten the injection times. For both aspirated and economical driving you want this.

On the other hand I happen to own two Nissan's same type engine but one has o2 sensor, the other doesn't. They both have a mass airflow sensor. The silly thing is that my 1 litre to 15 kilometres (approx 9 miles) is something I had to do a lot of work for.

The other car isn't well maintained in several ways and it gave me 1 litre to 14,6 kilometres. This computer can not tell if the exhaust gasses contain a lot of oxygen or not. There are base mappings that are being used. From this perspective having an o2 doen't seem to do much but it is a mandatory part or else the catalyzer will slowly melt and become worthless and you won't pass an emission test this way.

But for your question, your setup looks to like if the o2 sensor is getting less oxygen since you are venting exhaust fumes that do have parts of burnt fuel and burnt fuel comes out with air that has slightly less oxygen then regular air.

By checking your fuel consumption (you will need to create exact usage figures with the same driving (really) on atleast a tank per modifications I need your before and after fuel consumption, your current power gains and your loss to the throttle response, together with spark plug colour which will probably tell if you have a too rich or too lean mixture there. And with bad fuel economy you might expect lean looking spark plugs but this doesn't have to be the case.

Wow, thanks for the detailed response once again. I have already been tracking my fuel consumption and it came to 100 miles on £15 fuel (12 litres of petrol) with the induction kit setup I have (vented breather filters). However, with the stock airbox, it came to 122 miles on £15 fuel (12 litres). So I'm considering if putting the stock airbox might fix all the issues that I have?
 
Do you happen to have a link to a website where those small filters you have there are sold? I would like to see if contains the right keywords to find a good write on the internet since a lot of people do this and I am interested also for it's workings. But the main thing is all air has to be registered by the mass air flow and the o2. Computers expect that and attempt or attempt not so great to reach ideal mixture. Also keep in mind exhaust gasses never will be able to burn all the oxygen that is contained in the air that passes trough the engine.
 
Do you happen to have a link to a website where those small filters you have there are sold? I would like to see if contains the right keywords to find a good write on the internet since a lot of people do this and I am interested also for it's workings. But the main thing is all air has to be registered by the mass air flow and the o2. Computers expect that and attempt or attempt not so great to reach ideal mixture. Also keep in mind exhaust gasses never will be able to burn all the oxygen that is contained in the air that passes trough the engine.

Sorry I don't as the filters and the whole induction kit was giving to me from a friend that previously a k11 which he sold
 
To answer your question, atleast test drive with the stock setup and I advice to build your own like I did. It looks like a piece of exhaust pipe with a silicon bent and rerouting trough the intake before the mass air flow and that is true. It is also calculated what lenght is best, because intake length will move your overall power bend around. I've sticked with regular power band, no reason to believe Nissan did something there and then you custom intake must considered from where your mass air flow is, twice as long, or half as long or just right on top of the mass air flow nearing zero length. Zero length works. It isn't hurting my fuel economy I know. Now for those stock air filters and those small tanks or air pockets, that is just engineered to get the aimed engine sound Nissan wanted without noticable driving issues that are going to be mentioned by the new owners.

If that is sound, next stop a performance manifold but I couldn't find one on ebay for a CG13DE is that correct?
 
For the stuff you have gotten, please post some pictures disconnected the whole thing. I run my intake with exhaust tube and the other one has been capped with what ever fitted from Hornbach. Maybe I can help you to design something that gives more driveabillity and no loss in fuel economy with regular parts from stores.
 
To answer your question, atleast test drive with the stock setup and I advice to build your own like I did. It looks like a piece of exhaust pipe with a silicon bent and rerouting trough the intake before the mass air flow and that is true. It is also calculated what lenght is best, because intake length will move your overall power bend around. I've sticked with regular power band, no reason to believe Nissan did something there and then you custom intake must considered from where your mass air flow is, twice as long, or half as long or just right on top of the mass air flow nearing zero length. Zero length works. It isn't hurting my fuel economy I know. Now for those stock air filters and those small tanks or air pockets, that is just engineered to get the aimed engine sound Nissan wanted without noticable driving issues that are going to be mentioned by the new owners.

If that is sound, next stop a performance manifold but I couldn't find one on ebay for a CG13DE is that correct?

Any chance you can send me a pic of your intake setup
 
For the stuff you have gotten, please post some pictures disconnected the whole thing. I run my intake with exhaust tube and the other one has been capped with what ever fitted from Hornbach. Maybe I can help you to design something that gives more driveabillity and no loss in fuel economy with regular parts from stores.

Ok, do you want me to take a pics of my intake setup?
 
Yes, please post pictures from every angle and bent, filter or thingy what is there but I'm confident it is the setup I expect it to be, but that is no basis to help you out to have no lagging throttle and having the power or fuel economy you aim for.

And for my setup, it is as straightforward like I said and I'm not confident remembering a stock setup + egr since my other Nissan has no egr and this one has no egr anymore. But keep in mind I'll show you a GA16 but I'm quite sure the system is exactly the same. The pictures just won't be 1:1 so some confidence on what is what and what it does is helpful and you -can- remove egr reversible without damage.

You will need to look for parts that suit your needs (really anything from construction markets to universal parts and everything you can think of that will fit, can be a challenge). The other challenge is to weld a piece of tube on a exhaust pipe, for me a friend welded this, nothing special but you happen to have such a friend. If you go to a weldershop you just as well can buy a filter solution I suppose.

I forgot to mention, I have no pictures at the moment, it really is nothing special but my Micra is out for MOT.
 
Yes, please post pictures from every angle and bent, filter or thingy what is there but I'm confident it is the setup I expect it to be, but that is no basis to help you out to have no lagging throttle and having the power or fuel economy you aim for.

And for my setup, it is as straightforward like I said and I'm not confident remembering a stock setup + egr since my other Nissan has no egr and this one has no egr anymore. But keep in mind I'll show you a GA16 but I'm quite sure the system is exactly the same. The pictures just won't be 1:1 so some confidence on what is what and what it does is helpful and you -can- remove egr reversible without damage.

You will need to look for parts that suit your needs (really anything from construction markets to universal parts and everything you can think of that will fit, can be a challenge). The other challenge is to weld a piece of tube on a exhaust pipe, for me a friend welded this, nothing special but you happen to have such a friend. If you go to a weldershop you just as well can buy a filter solution I suppose.

I forgot to mention, I have no pictures at the moment, it really is nothing special but my Micra is out for MOT.

Ok no problem will send you pics of the intake, I have put the stock airbox, and it has seemed have to solved the throttle response and definitely the power. It just seems to pick up power more quickly compared to the induction kit setup I had before.

As for fuel consumption, I need to test it and will update further on.
 
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