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BTRDA 1400 Nissan Micra Rally Build

Rally-mad-harry

Rally-mad-harry

Hi All,

Just opening up this blog to start showing my work from converting my Rally First 1.0L car into a full BTRDA 1400s class car.

So far:
  • Started to lighten the panels. boot bonnet and doors
  • Obtained a CGA3 1348cc Auto engine (50,000 miles)
  • C-P Motorsport Polished and Ported Head
  • 1300 Gearbox with 5.1 C&P and Gripper Differential
More plans and photos of developments to come...................................................

Thanks Harry
 
Maybe it's a silly question but...why buying a 1.0 car and then a 1.3 engine? Or you are "upgrading" a car that you already had?
 
Sorry i didnt explain to well, I have been running in the 1.0L Rally First Forest Championship on and off for 3 years now, and now moving to the 1400cc class, Now at one point i looked at selling the micra and changing to a different car altogether, but have nw decided on building my current forest car into a 1400cc car, and so this blog should hopefully show you the work being carried out

Regards Harry
 
Hi Frank

It Varies really from say 110bhp up to the top 1400s cars who claim to have 180-190bhp (Vauxhall Nova)

Cars include:
Vauxhall Nova/Corsa
Vauxhall Astra
Ford Fiesta/Focus
Proton Satria
MK2 Escorts
MG ZR

Cars featured in the Past:
Suzuki Ignis
Peugeot 106/ Citroen Saxo
Nissan Micra (Wide Body)

There are three different classes within the BTRDA 1400 Championship as shown below.

Millers Oils BTRDA 1400 Championship is for vehicles up to 1400cc, running in advance of the main field. There are vehicle classes for 1400L, 1400C and 1400S cars.

Class 1400L - All current and former FIA Group N1 and R1A cars and all cars up to 1400cc,with engines of more than 8 valves and retaining the standard fuel and inlet manifold systems. No remote reservoir suspension is permitted unless fitted as standard or homologated.

Class 1400C - Cars up to and including 1400cc with a maximum of 8 valve engines, plus all cars up to 1000cc not eligible for class RF1.0. No remote reservoir suspension permitted.

Class 1400S - All other cars up to and including 1400cc.

I would be looking to produce a 1400L class car first, then maybe work up to a full 1400S car after that.

Happy to have any suggestions in to what to do next along the way as it sounds like you know your stuff frank!

Thanks again for taking an interest
Harry
 
Some of the 1400 class cars are making some pretty mad numbers. So far I only know of 2 'high powered' CG based engines in the ether, neither of which there is any detailed technical information on sadly.

One being P5 NME which Aby claims makes 180bhp@9200rpm from a CG13DE. The other being that white Nismo March, also with a CG13DE, that's been bumping around on eBay for a while which made 151bhp@8118rpm and TBH looks to be overcammed.
 
you should be able to easily get 120hp from your CGA harry, with a bigger throttlebody and injectors, better cams, more compression and some exhaust mods eh :)
 
Thank you very much low rider and frank, sounds pretty interesting what I will be able to achieve, will keep you updated, just sorting some photos out for you

Harry
 
Hi All,

Just a bit of a tester to see if i could upload photos

These are just some photos of my 1.0l Forest car before strip down, I will get you some photos photos of some of the bits and bobs I've bought and the work I've been doing over the last 2-3 weeks

Thanks for looking H


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Thankyou very much,

To give you an idea of what I'm playing with at the moment :)

Car Spec as of now:

Rally First 1.0L Nissan Micra, N824 XNP, Has been running in the BTRDA rally first class over the last 2-3 years competing in 11 rallies, taking consistent top 3 finishes, before then competing on single venue tarmac events by previous owner.

Shell
3 door very strong and solid 1995 K11 shell, no sunroof, full Safety Devices 6 point bolt in cage (2 years old), lightened bonnet and boot, fitted with heavy duty aluminium front sump guard, heavy duty aluminium rear tank guard (fitted new two rallies ago), high tensile plastic guarding to cover brake and fuel lines and rear suspension and brakes, plumbed in 2.25l fire extinguisher and 1.75l handheld extinguisher (both recently tested), Sparco navigators footrest, OMP Evo Seats (out of date next year), TRS Magnum 5 point belts (FIA end 2015), OMP WRC suede steering wheel and boss, TRS helmet net, complete dash with heater, all windows fitted with safety film.

Engine & Transmission
Standard '95 engine, complete engine rebuild, OMEX shift light pro, new fuel and oil filters, Fuchs Titan race oil (2 rallies ago), standard airbox modified with twin air inlet pipes and K and N element filter, earlier 98 gearbox fitted with better gear ratios, larger input, bigger clutch and flywheel and bigger drive shafts (new 2 rallies ago), new clutch and throttle cables, Ashley competition exhaust with Power-flex mounts, new fuel pump.

Suspension and Brakes
Full Ex Micra Challenge Bilstein suspension, complete front Mcpherson struts with Eibach springs, forest helper springs, heavy duty roller top mounts, rear Bilstein challenge shocks, rear Eibach forest springs, strengthened panard rod, standard brake setup with Mintex discs, pads and rear shoes, new rear brake pistons and handbrake cable.

Wheels and Tyres
x6 13" Revolution RFX wheels and Dunlop SP85 gravel 165/65 R13 tyres.
 
Few more photos of bits I've managed to collect for my big project.
  • CGA3 Engine, Auto 50,000 miles
  • 1.3 Gearbox with Gripper Diff and 5.1 C&P fitted
  • Polished and Ported Dizzy Head
  • Made a bit of a start on these lightened doors.
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Hi Gents,

Skinner_87 Was the Omex shift light difficult to fit? No it was pretty easy actually, once i found the yellow and green wire under the dash, just hooked into that for the revs and the the interior light power supply cable, the shify light comes with a easy to follow guide anyway, then they just provide sticky back pads to fit it where you like, found it brilliant for my forest car especially as you doing realise you are sitting of the limiter with all the gravel underneath the car.

reflexuk Can you still lock it's doors Charlie?
You can still lock the doors Yes, same as before from the outside, but from the inside you just flick down the leaver down on the mechanisium, amazed how much weight i have managed to save after just taking that bit out.

How do you attach a doorcard to that door now?
The thing is I'm not planning too, they weight too much for one, and two, to neaten up the whole door all I need is some of this http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motor...-seals/demon-tweeks-titanfast-pvc-edging-trim just get it off ebay or something much cheaper.

Regards Harry
 
Rally-mad-harry said:
Hi Gents,

reflexuk Can you still lock it's doors Charlie?
You can still lock the doors Yes, same as before from the outside, but from the inside you just flick down the leaver down on the mechanisium, amazed how much weight i have managed to save after just taking that bit out.

How do you attach a doorcard to that door now?
The thing is I'm not planning too, they weight too much for one, and two, to neaten up the whole door all I need is some of this http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motor...-seals/demon-tweeks-titanfast-pvc-edging-trim just get it off ebay or something much cheaper.

Regards Harry
Click to expand...

So how do you open the door from sat inside now?
 
As Stani1029 has said, if I tie string to the opening mechanism then about half way down the door, when pulled the door will open. As I go I will upload some photos to show you how I'll do it.

Harry
 
the other intresting thing is the templarperformance owner (Mike Davies) is the cousin of the plastics4performance owner!!

A small company that make to order for half the price brilliant!!
 
Lowrider................ I'm unsure on this lightened door or a standard one, there is alot more i could take out these doors yet, only thing is it starts to loose its rigidity and the only reason I have left the impact bar in the door is due to only having single door bars on the roll cage, I know some lads with double door bars on the roll cage can get away with taking this impact bar out, or pure tarmac lads, as side swiping trees doesnt fair well when you have a sheet of tin between you and the tree trunk :eek:

Skinner................. yes the sideones are, unsure about the rear one as its formed but i'd say its around 4mm thick.
They have a ebay shop, to give you an idea of the 5 piece kits for small cars, he has only put the main ones up but gives you an idea for the micra ones.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/templarper...d=102380410&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1513&_pgn=1
 
Absolutely love this car, I'm a rally Marshall desperate to get started! Would definitely look at a micra to get started in! Love love love this :')
 
Rally-mad-harry said:
Lowrider................ I'm unsure on this lightened door or a standard one, there is alot more i could take out these doors yet, only thing is it starts to loose its rigidity and the only reason I have left the impact bar in the door is due to only having single door bars on the roll cage, I know some lads with double door bars on the roll cage can get away with taking this impact bar out, or pure tarmac lads, as side swiping trees doesnt fair well when you have a sheet of tin between you and the tree trunk :eek:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know what you mean. Trees don't tend to move when you hit them......if I were rallying I would have double door bars without a thought. I have single door bars at the front and have not done anything to the doors yet but have some ideas in the pipeline to dump some weight out of the car. Since we will only be using the car on the race track, we can probably get away with a fair bit more.

The weight of a standard door un-lightened, with OEM glass, window winder, trims etc would be a great datum to start with.
 
Evening Ladies and Gents!!

Been a while since i've ventured onto here, but nice to be back, few developments been going on lately,

Seat rails all in and looking good and general tidy up of the interior,

Poly carb window set has arrived thanks to Templar Performance, and managed to pick up a Helix Clutch Plate and Ashley 4-2-1 manifold from a rally friend that will go nicely with my project.

As for the GGA3 engine, all stripped down as of tonight to the block, CGA Cylinder head all off and slowly moved everything to the ported dizzy head, all other bits looking nice and tidy.

Also arriving as a nice present just in time for valentines day for the GF lol, some tasty CGA3 Forged Pistons and 773 Cams to go in mmmmm.....

Will update with some photos ASAP.

Thanks Harry
 
Quick Question, On my CGA3 Auto Engine, How do I fit my flywheel, looking at my 95 1.0l manual engine it just bolts straight on, but on the auto it has a spacer plate behind the lightweight auto distributor ring which is located on a dowel, do i remove both the spacer place and dowel off and bolt my flywheel on or does the spacerplate have to be in place and machine the flywheel??

I'm sure frank can help me on this one

Thanks Harry
 
GREAT thanks Frank your a super star!, will get some photos of progress loaded up soon, still waiting for my 773's and pistons too arrive delivery man got lost lol

Thanks Harry
 
Any progress Harry?
What is the expected output of this CGA3 engine with camshafts?
Are you allowed to fit ITB's or Bike carbs and do you intend to?
 
Hey ReflexUK thanks for the prod, been meaning to get back an update you guys lately, just been so busy.

Right UPDATE:

So Far, Fully Stripped the CGA3 down and have just sent the block, Crank, Rods and nice new accrulite forged pistons to C.M.A in Chester who can carry out engine machining, for it to have a slight rebore, balance the crank and rods and lighten and balance the fly.

Otherwise I've managed to pick up a set of CBR600 Bike Carbs with a TPS fitted and a DTA Ignition Only ECU from a friend which should make for a nice upgrade on the engine.
Once the Engine is Back from C.M.A I'll give the bogg brothers a call and get a inlet mani made up.

Other things happening include I managed to pick up some 6 14" Speedline Comp 2 wheels up which should look nice, just as a trial really with gravel tyres, hopfully be ok to run with the larger dia as I'll have a 5.1 CWP.
And this weekend had the dashboard out, to get all my wiring set for the mappable ECU

Thanks Harry
 
Somewhere in the 105-110bhp range @wheels territory Harry. Possibly a little more given the 5.1 CWP setup.
 
Low Rider said:
Somewhere in the 105-110bhp range @wheels territory Harry. Possibly a little more given the 5.1 CWP setup.
Click to expand...
Let's hope that's enough, I fear it might not be. The MG ZR would appear to be a popular choice in the 1.4 classes along with some of the Vauxhalls though I'm not sure which engine they use.

Did Bogg Bros suggest you use the cbr 600 carbs Harry?
 
It should be more than enough for me, didn't think we be kicking out that sort on bhp weeeee!, at the end of the day it's not always about power, we used to thrash fairly high spec mgzr's in the 1.0l they are carrying much more more body fat than the micra, when you start talking anything vauxhall, proton or ford that's when things would get a bit tricky in the class, but getting the micra at a good lick of pace is something I'm looking forward too :).

I haven't really spoken to bogg bros as of yet but the majority of forums are saying 600 is a good size, with the jets drilled to about 1.5mm, my mate I bought them of was going to run them on a Yaris so similar size engine and spec.

Otherwise for power gains I've go myself and the car on a diet lol

Will get some pics up shortly

Thanks for following and advising
Harry
 
Ladies and Gents its been a long while but finally making a headway to building this engine back up,

First question.
I have a CG13 and CGA3 cylinder head, and I'm just about to fit my nice new 773 cams, and noticed the followers are different, CGA3's are solid followers, what should I use for a 773 cam setup?

Will upload some photos of the build stages.

Many Thanks Harry


Please see attached photo too 'birthday party incident' LOL
 

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CG13 is a 1275
CGA3 is a 1348

CG13 has a Distributor or coil pack head.
Where as the CGA3 is a coil pack head.

What I've got is a CG13 Distributor head that I want to fit to the CGA3 block for ease of tuning, but just wondering whether its possible to move the solid cam followers from the removed CGA3 head into my CG13 dizzy head to then setup the 773 cams
 
some CGA3 followers/buckets are shimless harry (same ones as the later CR engines) they are graded in thickness tho, and if the clearance is out of spec you have to select or buy the correct thickness one.
the valves are 2mm longer on those, so you can utilise that difference when using reground cams
 
Thanks for the info frank brilliant, so the 2mm longer valves will work better with the 773 cams fitted? as long as the clearances on the CGA3 followers are ok
 
Hey All!!!,

Bit of a photo update.

New engine all built up internals wise taken me a steady 10 months lol, Managed to sort out the cam timing of the group A cams, Just waiting for my uprated injectors to be ultrasonically cleaned then will rebuild my inlet manifold also have my Ashley manifold to go on which needs heat wrapping.

What colour should I have the cam cover??? any suggestions


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Also have 998, 1275 and 1348 cam sets, Later coil pack inlet manifold including fuel rail and a CGA3 cylinder head with shimless buckets available.

Thanks for looking

Regards Harry
 

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