Another 'oil recommendations' thread - sorry!

[Ihtisham Rauf]

Sorry in advance for another 'what oil is best' thread!

The new 10.2:1 CGA3 will be going in soon. Rev limit will probably be set at around 7.5k rpm. What sort of oil do people recommend?
In my current CGA3, I used 10W40 Shell HX7 and more recently, I have started to use a bit of 15W50 Fuchs racing oil to help counteract the wearing of the rings. The new engine will be properly mapped on a standalone ecu, so any engine wear caused by a poor map is less of a concern.
For the new engine, I was thinking Fuchs Racing 5W30 or should I consider thicker oil?

The manual says that 5w30, 10w40, 15w50 are all fine.

I've spoken to a few rally CGA3 guys in the past and they mostly recommended Fuchs racing oil or Mobil 1 racing oil, as my car is highly strung and sees the high revs quite frequently... 0)

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[SuperUno]

I have always used 5w40 Fully synth oil, various brands what ever I can get cheapest. But very regular oil changes, so for the Micra the oil & filter gets changed after every event.

 

[Ihtisham Rauf]

I have always used 5w40 Fully synth oil, various brands what ever I can get cheapest. But very regular oil changes, so for the Micra the oil & filter gets changed after every event.

thanks for sharing. Would you recommend I adopt a similar strategy for mine as it’s a road car? I’m thinking 5w40 fully synth every 6 months then?

thanks for any help.

 

[.Maarten]

5 or 10w40 full synth should be fine. Id change it after 5k miles as oil is cheap esp if you rev it alot.

 

[SuperUno]

Time is hard to tell, I would base it on mileage and how hard it is driven. An average rally mileage will be less than 50miles but those miles are nearly all flat out.

Other other competition car is a more standard MGZR160, as it is a standard engine it gets less oil changes and I base the changes on the colour of the oil i.e. once I see it starting to go black it gets changed. Also I will sometimes do it ahead of normal if I have the car in the air for other jobs I will do oil & filter at the same time as it is easy to do.

Plus when I do a oil change I flush through with the cheapest oil I can find with a litre or two of this cheap oil. I just pour it in and let it drain straight out. It is surprising what it will bring out. I just use 10w/40 semi for this, last lot I got 20Ltrs for £28 delivered.

 

[Ihtisham Rauf]

Time is hard to tell, I would base it on mileage and how hard it is driven. An average rally mileage will be less than 50miles but those miles are nearly all flat out.

Other other competition car is a more standard MGZR160, as it is a standard engine it gets less oil changes and I base the changes on the colour of the oil i.e. once I see it starting to go black it gets changed. Also I will sometimes do it ahead of normal if I have the car in the air for other jobs I will do oil & filter at the same time as it is easy to do.

Plus when I do a oil change I flush through with the cheapest oil I can find with a litre or two of this cheap oil. I just pour it in and let it drain straight out. It is surprising what it will bring out. I just use 10w/40 semi for this, last lot I got 20Ltrs for £28 delivered.

5 or 10w40 full synth should be fine. Id change it after 5k miles as oil is cheap esp if you rev it alot.

Thanks a lot to both for your help, I have a much better idea what I am doing now

 

[richardwbb]

I always recommend Vavoline from the Action store at 4 coins a bottle but in your case I recommend learning about oil here, https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/ On the other hand this long text will explain also (but you will have to reason about this yourself) that non special oil if you do the interval twice as often it will be cheaper then racing oil but that is how I would approach this problem of being sure the oil film does not break up in a highly modified engine with different combustion (heat) and a lot more revving.

And wait, did you change oil grade and have a consumption of 1 liter per 1000 miles?

 

[Ihtisham Rauf]

I always recommend Vavoline from the Action store at 4 coins a bottle but in your case I recommend learning about oil here, https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/ On the other hand this long text will explain also (but you will have to reason about this yourself) that non special oil if you do the interval twice as often it will be cheaper then racing oil but that is how I would approach this problem of being sure the oil film does not break up in a highly modified engine with different combustion (heat) and a lot more revving.

And wait, did you change oil grade and have a consumption of 1 liter per 1000 miles?

I bought some Fuchs racing 5W40 full synth oil, which is supposed to withstand the high revs and heat or so I was recommended by a rally Micra owner.

It has been 1litre per 1000 more recently and using Fuchs racing 15W50 has seemed to halt the consumption and not make it worse.

 

[richardwbb]

I would never changy viscosity on engine oil but viscosity is like cold/warm figures.

For what I know, thicker oil then factory spec > 10w40, is okay (I just don't know what okay means here) and for thinner oil, that ends up burned with combustion.