Annoying K11 problem

R

RR_dev

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Hi guys, hoping you can help with this.

my grans car had an issue last winter in that it wouldn't start / flood after a cold night.

the issues seemed to have gone but it is back today!

last year i replaced the Temp sensor, new plugs and fitted this resistor thing i read about (waste of money...) and still the issue remains.

no fault codes are thrown up as i have had it plugged into consult.

im well seasoned in nissan mechanics having built my almera from the ground up so whatever the work needed ill get this fixed!

your input is appreciated guys! (and frank)
 
Could it be battery related? From my experience, batteries don't like cold weather! If you've got a basic amp meter, it'll be easy to eliminate at least.
 
piper1st said:
Could it be battery related? From my experience, batteries don't like cold weather! If you've got a basic amp meter, it'll be easy to eliminate at least.
Click to expand...

Definately not the battery. Tested it last time and it was fine. It turns over strong and it sparks strong, it just seems to dump fuel into the cylinders.
 
It could be the onsets of the netorious distributor problem. If yours is the model with the coil and crank angle sensor built into the distributor then it might be letting you know that its on its way out. Check this thread and see if any of it sounds similar to what's going on with your car.
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/34693-K11-Misfire-Problem?highlight=

A faulty distributor can sometimes give you the same symtoms as a faulty throttle body or fuel pump so it's easily mistaken for one of those faults. As a last ditch test though, change the sparkplug leads and dizzy cap. If you do need a new distributor, they can be obtained from scrap yards for £20.
 
nope that doesnt fit the bill.

the car wont start at all. it doesnt start then conk out.

its a T reg CG10DE K11 btw.

the fact it starts after you remove the fuel pump fuse is kinda making me lean towards maf, i had heard there is a common fault with the MAF going on K11s but i thought it was the 1.3's?

anyone?
 
leaking injector maybe ross ? i,ve had it before where there,s a pool of petrol in the bottom of the mani, and it would,nt start without pulling the fuse fwn
(you may be able to see with a torch and the throttle opened)
 
ill check this but i feel it would be a more consistent problem if that was the case.

this issue only develops after a cold night...
 
Has the throttle body been soldered at all? If not it may be due for it, and with the cold any gaps or cracks in solder connections or damaged wires will open up and cause an open circuit until it warms up and the gap/crack closes again. Take the side plate off the throttle body and take a real good close look at the solder on the circuit board. If it turns out to be this then it's an easy fix.
 
Should be getting the soldering on the throttle body done this week when the new gasket arrives. A massive £8 from nissan for a piece of paper.
 
Ignoring the last two posts criticising my workmanship... Ghetto fixes are great, but not when you are working on someone elses car thanks.

I have resoldered the throttle body and the problem remains. I'm gonna change the fuel rail, dizzy and check all vac lines. If this doesn't solve the issue I'm outta ideas and I'll swap the engine loom.
 
There was a modified wiring loom with a resistor fitted for the temp sensor when the K11 first came out, is that the resistor thing you mentioned?

Does your 'Consult' let you read the values from the temp sensor? When they go they usually read -37 or something mad like that.

I'd be checking for something more obvious. As its Grans car I'd be checking the O2 sensor is switching as it should. I'd be checking the throttle body isn't carboned up and I'd be trying some shiney new plugs in it.
 
RR_dev said:
Ignoring the last two posts criticising my workmanship... Ghetto fixes are great, but not when you are working on someone elses car thanks.
Click to expand...

Hold on, using instant gasket to refit the circuit board cover (metal plate) on the throttle body is no "ghetto fix", that's the way they were assembled at the factory. Black instant gasket is clearly visible on pretty much all k11 throttle bodies from 93' to 00'. Unless of course they have had their TB soldered at some point since manufacture.
Looking back on the thread i can't find and posts that "criticize" your workmanship, so i don't know why you've picked up that idea.
 
Instant gasket on the circuit plate is fine. I was referring to the criticism I received for replacing the throttle body gasket, i assumed when you said use instant gasket you meant on the throttle body. then I reckon next criticism will be "why remove the throttle body." answer - it's faster... And using cereal box is only a temporary fix. It'll get burned out quickly by egr, then you have a problem.
 
Checked the o2 sensor on consult and it was reading erratically and sometimes not at all. Replaced it and the readings look a lot better now. Hopefully this was the cause of the issue, but we will see
 

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