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Stani1029 said:
Anything from 350-400hp @ 700-750kg's fingers crossed

The lower hp and higher weight doesn't quite reach the 450 but I'm sure it will be good enough. At this stage when nothing's done its hard to say what it will really be..
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Be a task to get the car down to 700-750kg won't it?
 
Stani1029 said:
Welder arrived on friday, went straight up to the garage and started practise on a bit of sheet metal. Heres a pic of the penetration with C02 only



That i was quite happy with although on the other side they were quite thick/tall welds. I also done some overlap welding and that went well too but why when i take it to the car it doesnt go as well? Lol and no i havent attempted the engine mounts, i plated one of the rear arches from where the cage was removed.

Advice, hints, tips welcomed :)
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9/10 times I have a bad run of welds ita because I've chosen a bad earthing point. On a car its especially tricky. Me and Chris found that taking the steering wheel off and clamping the earth to the column wasn't too bad of that helps.
 
Cleanliness of the metal is key when welding on the car.
If you have a good clean earth point you'll weld much better :)

I find using the steel twist knot brushes is best to get the metal clean :)

CO2 is perfectly fine for steel but Argon (25%)/CO2 (75%) I've found is better for the thinner stuff 1mm or less

Wire thickness is another factor. Thinner wire for thinner work pieces.. up the wire thickness for thicker pieces.

My welder is only 135a but with 1.0mm wire on max amps it can cause havoc with 10mm steel. 0.6mm min amps it'll weld 0.6mm steel all day long

Hope that helps Stani :)
 
I find that pure CO2 gives nice, clean welds with a soft, controllable arc but you get better penetration with argon mix (it gives a more intense, slightly less controllable arc).
 
Enuo said:
I find that pure CO2 gives nice, clean welds with a soft, controllable arc but you get better penetration with argon mix (it gives a more intense, slightly less controllable arc).
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I get the opposite :p
-CO2 burns hotter so is less controllable but higher penetration
-Argon/CO2 mix for less heat on thin metals
-Argon for aluminium
-Helium/Argon/CO2 mix for Stainless steel :)
 
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I use only co2, mainly because I get it free from my local pub but I've never had any problems and I only use my mig for thin stuff.

Used argon Mix a few times and never found it any better.
 
h701micra said:
I get the opposite :p
-CO2 burns hotter so is less controllable but higher penetration
-Argon/CO2 mix for less heat on thin metals
-Argon for aluminium
-Helium/Argon/CO2 mix for Stainless steel :)
Click to expand...
1391380150783.jpg
 
Maybe its to do with the way different welders convert the AC to DC. But pitting is caused by contamination, wether its oil on the metal burning off and the gases escaping through the molten metal or hydrogen contamination (hydrogen disolves in molten steel and escapes as the metal cools, one of the many reasons you need a gas shield)
 
Stani1029 said:
I welded both sides and regret doing the outsides without welding gloves on to start as i got a bad burn! But hey ho doesnt affect anything :)
Click to expand...
If you're ever welding with your head lower down. Put something over your ears... nothing worse than a bead getting in there... because you can't get it out :(
Enuo said:
You can tell who does and doesn't wear gloves when welding by the tan line :)
Click to expand...
So that's where my tan lines are from. Thought it was strange for winter :p
 

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