Search results

I do not dare to think or imagine the amount of time you spend on all these little contraptions lol.

What are the sills like?

This is a complete no-brainer. Get the belts done before they snap. Its not worth the inconvenience of a broken belt, and if you are unlucky one of them drives the water pump so you could end up killing your engine in the process.. Garage would probably charge an hours labour + belts to do...

Plumbing for the supercharger isn't right, but you can soon sort that.

Can supply any bearings custom pistons etc that you want, drop me an email if your serious. :)

That's not a bad sized turbo. I bet you miss the old thing now?

That's a bit too vague. Do you know the specific specifications?

They weren't sold in the USA.

Unlikely the micra thrust bearing will fit.

What turbo is on it/spec? 'Disco potato' turbo can't get anywhere close to 500hp. Even a 3076 I'd question it (unless billet version). Quite a few customers of mine are now 500+hp, its a whole different world to getting 400hp (easy) Andy, As for clutches speak to me if you need anything.

Frank is wrong, No pulsar/200sx is odbII, but you cant just plug the ecu in either, that wont work.

Seriously, just use a physical tyre temp sensor, if its good enough for race teams, its good enough for you :)

You only need to buy a bunch of sensors then write some code to read each one in turn and data log it. You dont need to spend on loads of hardware you don't need if you did it this way. Is there a part number on the sensor?

Cant really see the point to the above, but this project would help you a lot: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/andyrawson/ir-blue-thermal-imaging-smartphone-accessory?ref=card

I have SR20DET maps but not for the configuration of this one, as its not the way I'd approach it. I could get close however. Good luck with the project Andy.,

Nice to see these builds going on :) I'd somehow missed this thread!

Its about more consistent repeatable clamping force. You don't necessarily need more and indeed in some cases more is worse since this can lead to distortion of the block and head.

Head wont lift under the kind of pressures spoken about here. You don't need them.

Machine shops I use can do a better finish than Nissan did when they built the engines. ARP bolts are unnecessary for this thread.

Best seal is from job done properly from the outset. No issues or dramas then when you dont leave anything to chance.