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Actually plan to do something with it this year lol.

Lol just saw this, if you connect up the lines wrong the SC makes loads of boost! You definitely don't need to change the pulley ratios :)

Gearbox swaps are easy and 4/5 speed will swap over with absolutely no difficulties.

Its never been done successfully that I've seen, and I've never tried such an approach myself. Me being me I'd jump right to EFI and do it right the first time. You may manage to get something working however. The K10 carb is sealed so in theory assuming you can compensate fuel pressure it may...

I took manifold pressure measurements to gauge my views, rather than subjective arse in seat opinions. The 1.2 inlet is incredibly restrictive, and not a lot can be done about it short of a complete change as putting a 1.0 inlet manifold on it is just as bad. Definitely agree in regards to...

I don't agree with the above. You by a K10 on body condition not spec. The spec can be easily and cheaply changed. Bad body work like the above can't. Any car can be a money pit, but the K10 the least so. If your patient check the above for rust, and find a clean one it will cost you next to...

Loosing all drive combined with loose cable is unusual. Possibly a bearing collapse, but that would still leave you with drive (i.e. if you put it in gear and started the car it would jerk forward) OR friction disc failure, which would give no drive but the pedal should still feel normal ish...

Any flashing lights on the dash?

How is the above post helpful? Or is it some kind of joke that I don't get? I saw a very very clean pre-facelift on PistonHeads recently, its probably sold now tho.

If you actually intend to do anything about it then keep a sample and complain to local trading standards. Chances are though its far more likely that your car is at fault than the fuel is.

The ecus look the same. I have a Nismo ecu, some ECU's the SC light doesnt work. (dont know why - never looked into it)

Its always cause of young drivers driving them like hooligans = bad mpg lol.

If its a slightly off AFM, now codes will be present. However lambda feedback compensation if it has the stock lambda sensor will be way out - thats a good clue

Possibly. I always found those carbs really temperamental on the K10 when I first tried this. You've ended up with really quite a complex system there where there is much to go wrong so its a bit hard to say.

I dont know your full setup, but FPR should be the last thing on your list if the OEM one has tested fine. If seen what appear to be working maf sensors only to be reading slightly wrong causing all kinds of issues,.

There is no benefit to doing so. When I'm running engines that are making well over 130bhp/cyl and using 0.8mm gaps, I can't see why people thing big gaps help?

Ok you should be fine them, I'll let the others who have done this before help you.

Cool project, but you should have perhaps got a figaro inlet manifold, and then mega-squirted it? Anyhow, those pops from the video above was due to a lean condition. Make sure if you get an 02 sensor its a wideband one. I'm sure you were going to anyway, but narrow band is a total waste of time.

Bosch super 4 plugs are terrible in my experience. Swap them to normal plugs and gap them to OEM. Try a different AFM too. The speed sensor doesn't force it into closed loop. It just has some speed fuel compensation that leans out the higher rpm. Shouldn't be a problem for most people. Only...

To confirm, you have no little red transponder bit on your key then?