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There is a fuse for the dials, but i dont remember the name for it...

You need a blue relay on the cabin fusebox...

With only the 1st CAT it passes emissions, with only the 2nd CAT it doesnt pass emissions but its close to pass, without any CAT's it will never pass.

Yes, thats the one... :p

All good then. ;)

Loose vacuum pipe on the back of the TB?

Like on this vid?

Use the SR20 MAF if you are using a turbo, otherwise use stock CG MAF (or GA, but GA will give you fueling issues even with NIStune).

On my grey Micra i changed the front suspension top mounts and rear shocks. And discovered that there are different stock injectors, normal ones (from pre-facelifts) and ones with black dots (from facelifts). Normal ones seems to deliver more fuel than dotted ones, dont know why tho...

I noticed that it overfuels at idle and low load (made my grey rear bumper go black, like a diesel :eek:) and sometimes it would underfuel at high revs, dont worth the hassle really, just stick with stock TB/MAF if you dont have any crazy setup...

I dont think i have enough space to do it on a LHD Micra... :eek:

It overfuels anyway (even more at idle), no need for a FPR...

Well, i had a similar noise on my 1.0, like big end bearings, but only when the engine was hot but stopped, then restarted after a couple of minutes, after some seconds the noise disappears... o_O

You made this face:

The red led is normal to flash with ignition OFF. I was talking about the engine management light on the cluster, if it stays on when you turn the key to ON, thats good, if it blinks, its a NATS issue...

Best thing you will do... :p

These are not clicks, they are big knocks :eek:

You have to take it to a Dyno. ;)

Yes, SR20 is a must for turbo, but no need to use it on a "normal" setup. It works good on NIStune, Ed is the man to ask for that info.

Seems to be instant power... :D