Wont start, fuel issue

[Msr91]

Bought my first k10 about 10 months ago(1990 k10 canvas 1.2), ran great until a couple of weeks ago. Was drivning home from work and it just died out of nowhere about 5 minutes away from home.
Towed it home and tried to find out whats wrong with it.

It has good spark and compression and The carb bowl is filling up to The correct level.
It runs on starter fluid or when pouring fuel into The carb. The carb Will squirt fuel when pumping The throttle and Will fire up but only run for a few seconds.

Thought The carb Was clogged so i Bought a rebuild kit. Replaced all gaskets and o rings, accel pump, cleaned all The jets and soaked The carb in carb cleaner but it still acts The same.

Replaced all dry rotted vacuum lines and leak tested The intake gasket, i get good vaccum when cranking.
The car had sat in a garage for 14 years when i bought it so i have recently replaced:
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Dizzy CAP and rotor
Sparkplugs and wires
Thermostat
Oilfilter
Oil and coolant
Watepump
Timing belt and tensioner
And it has been running Great until now.

I have NO idea what to try next please help, i really enjoy drivning this car.

 

[richardwbb]

I have no specific k10 knowledge and my carburettor knowledge is close to none but I since an engine needs air, fuel and a spark I suggest having a look at https://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm but if you happen to own a Haynes manual of any make and model, their chart is way better. This might give you some clues.

The spark plug colour might tell you if your spark has enough momentum. I couldn't find a nice webpage for that but it should be an audible spark, preferably bright white with some blue or quite blue with some white, or was that the other way around. Anything below isn't acceptable. If the k10 has a spark timing advance by vacuum, check it out, also check for major leaks in compression.

I would not know about anything else checking besides some metal moving parts that do something with the carburettor but I have no experience with. I guess your car does show attempts it did burn some fuel here and there? Are visible leakages on the engine? Are you sure you have some compresion, implying no major leaks determined for eacht cylinder, on all four? Is there a k10 fsm for reading? Is your timing just about right? I reckon it would be an idea to be tested (I just made the following up, so let me know if it is off what I am trying to tell), set the first cylinder to top dead center and adjust timing to zero degrees, but ony if you read there is way off from minimum or below zero?

 

[frank]

anti diesel solenoid not opening maybe ? it shuts the fuel to the main jet

 

[Msr91]

anti diesel solenoid not opening maybe ? it shuts the fuel to the main jet

Could be, do you know where its located an how to check its funktion?

 

[frank]

Repair Guides

AutoZone Repair Guide for your Driveability & Emissions Controls Electronic Engine Controls-carbureted Engines Anti-dieseling Solenoid

www.autozone.com

is it clicking when you turn the ign on ?

 

[richardwbb]

Interesting read frank. I gained a little bit more understanding carbureted engines.

 

[Msr91]

Repair Guides

AutoZone Repair Guide for your Driveability & Emissions Controls Electronic Engine Controls-carbureted Engines Anti-dieseling Solenoid

www.autozone.com

is it clicking when you turn the ign on ?

It does click when the ign is on
And when disconnected i get 36 ohm between The red and black wire.
I also checked the timing once again and it is spot on. It runs aslong as someone is adding fuel into the carb manualy. Maybe there is something loose inside the solenoid?

Also i noticed the red wire coming off the solenoid is spliced/connected to a blue wire that seems to power the choke, probly not supposed to be like that but both wires are getting 12v on ign.

 

[frank]

the choke wire went to the alternator on the k10,s i had, so that it did,nt de-activate the choke if you left the ign on, and only opened when the alternator was turning

 

[Msr91]

I have not yet solved the problem but i have found a solution.

Giving up on the ma12 and swaping in an sr20de instead. From an almera, low mileage and runs good but very rusty. But i paid less for the car than what the scrapyard wanted for a new carburettor hopefully this will make the car a little bit more reliable and fun to drive.
Thanks for all the help and replies.

 

[richardwbb]

From a k10 to a Sr20? I think it will be more fun indeed. Please share the welding. Sr20's are always the solution ain't they?

 

[Msr91]

Soon she will run again!
Completed the driveshafts last weekend, measured the length so that i can order custom ones later on. They will hopefully hold for a while but i plan to do a turbo conversion once its up and running.
Next task to take on is the wiring, havet decided yet if im going with the oem almera wiring+nistune or go for megasquirt, anyone got experience with both? Please let me know what you think.