Where does this interior connector go? k12

R

Ragin

Hey all, can someone send me a picture of their k12 micra interior fuses? Mine seem to be pretty mixed up and some fuses taken out.

My fuse 17 (highlighted) responsible for the immobiliser seems to be getting no voltage. Its been pushed so far in its flush with the fuse box and I cant get it out, no 12v too!

Any help or pictures would be appreciated! :)

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Maybe it's wrong type of fuse or its blow
And also some of the fuses are for different items that may or may not be installed this would suggest then the fuse location will be empty in this case if say heated mirror isn't installed on your version of car?

I will take a photo tomorrow to show you how mine looks and I know some are missing but everything electrical is working.

To me it looks like it's not the right type of fuse or its burned and sunken into the slot.
Maybe try needle nose pliers and see if you can yank it out for inspection.
However you might need to use a small scrodger to gently lift it back giving you something to grip with pliers.
 
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Thanks, i will try to use something to grip it with and yank it, I got the basic Micra 2003 S version. I know that this fuse should be responsible for the immobiliser if I'm correct. I have tried to take out some of the newer looking 10amps that I have installed but they are a bit smaller and don't fit aswell hence why this one has sunk inside.

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One of the fuses that is responsible for the immobiliser is preventing my car from starting up. I dont know if its the 8th fuse or the 7th or the last one i highlighted that is stuck inside.
 
Im getting a flashing NATS fault which is a mechanical/electrical fault within the micras. Usually a solid NATS is an indication of a actual key transponder or something. Hopefully it might be one of these fuses that will do the trick just need to get it out :D
 
It may just be a bad ground take your time try to get a workshop manual to help diagnose the problem
 
hmm, i dont know really if it could. I checked a few grounds especially in the engine bay, they all looked good, cleaned them up and cleaned up the engine ground too. Didnt seem to do much, even ran a negative jumper lead from negative bat post to block, still nothing
 
Okay so if you look at this page it might help

www.autogenius.info

Nissan Micra (2003 - 2010) - fuse box diagram - Auto Genius

Nissan Micra (2003 - 2010) - fuse box diagram
www.autogenius.info www.autogenius.info

Far as I see now your car has no aircon or heated seats.

The interior light and central locking is linked with the immo have you checked the interior light operates and does the central locking function as normal.
 
Maybe Check that interior light for voltage inspect the bulb and switch.
It might have had a replacement bulb and it was not the correct type.
Like only yesterday I notice I had an led and I've had the micra for a few year now.
And it concerned me that why is that got an led in the rear number plate light?

Also aside from the bulb the wiring might have a short or break in it.
I have my light for interior disabled like turned off because I always thought it was draining my battery this was not long after getting the car and its been set like that most of the time since.

Another thing those blue fuses don't look in the correct position will take pic in the morning I recon they are in the center of the fuse box. But I ain't looked at it in a long while so could be wrong.
 
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Here is a random photo of an fuse box with the fuses still in situ this will help to compare. For now
And yes it might fix the issue but you also need to find out what cause it to blow.
Screenshot_20210325_002904.jpg
 
Here it is I had already loaded it on here.
Mine has electric mirror and air con probs a few other things.
Also not i-key version it has the standard key.
You may also see the fuses are number painted and in your image a few are un painted the ones with white paint are originals.

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Thank you very much, ill try take it out tomorrow and compare, the reason for it blowing is an electrical short through a aftermarket radio :/ uninstalled it though.
 
Hey all, i have done a little more digging and I found a loose connector in the interior fuse box area.

I have no idea where it connects but I think this is whats causing my issue. Anyone know where it connects? Thanks
 

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Interesting have not seen that before can you see where it trails to from that area.
Got no idea what it is myself.
Looks important tho.
Does you car have electric mirrors or the headlight adjuster.
These are furthest right on the dash.
Not saying it's for those but could be.
And even if you don't have the item the wiring might be still?
A connector like that does not simply fall out I can see its taped up in one of your photos of the fuse box.
Does your obd2 port work correctly.
 
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I have not checked the obd2 port, I know that the wire splits off into 2 more pieces one being this connector and the other being the headlight adjuster on the right. Im going to check tomorrow and try see further. It may just be an obd2 port or could be something more important.

'Does your car have electric mirrors or the headlight adjuster' - Yeah it has the headlight adjusters, the main wire that splits off into the connector and one to the headlight adjuster.

I hope it may just be something that connects to the fusebox which will resolve my issue :))
 
If it is the same and it looks to be then I would just ignore that cable connector.
My obd2 port definitely worked with my Wi-Fi dongle.
I did have trouble with Bluetooth but was just the adapter.
My only items that do not function are the steering wheel audio controls as aftermarket unit is installed.
Mirrors function.
Not 100% on headlight adjustment but I think it does work.
 
Ahh, alright thanks for the help. Ill scan around tomorrow looking for anything that is not plugged in and fingers crossed it may work :)
 
Are you aware that the other fuse box is under the headlight.
I will look to see if that is an actual connector in my photo also and confirm if that's just taped to the loom.
Looks to be a six pin connector right.
I doubt it's anything important tho at this point.
 
Yes i am aware of the fuse box under the headlight, yes its a six-pin connector too

The fuse box under the headlight is how I get my car to turn over, since there is nothing from turning the key.

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I bridge 14 to 11 since wire 14 has 12v so i send the 12v with a small wire to wire 11 and the engine turns over. However it doesnt actually start which is what im trying to troubleshoot, thinking maybe that 6 pin connector may be issue, all the fuses inside fusebox interior and under headlight are perfectly good.
 
Here is a short video of the IPDM, I show what wires I bridge since I cant crank the car normally from key. I know the NATS is working good as before, the NATS light flashed the same but if i shorted the starter it would start the car, however when the mechanic took it in to have a look, he thought it was a key issue and messed around with the fuse and some pin connectors, he handed it back to me in a state with bits off it. Now when i short the starter the engine just turns over. I think he may have disconnected an important connector responsible for communicating with ECU hence why it just cranks.
 

Have you watched this before this guy explains somethings that may help you to figure it out.
Might be just a relay?
In your case tho you get crank but no start right.
 
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Yup i have seen the video, he also sends 12v to the starter through the ipdm and his starts, I don't think its a relay since I have interchanged them for a working one and it doesn't start. I think it just may be a fault with the connector or a wire fault somewhere
 
Sounds like it's been bodged to me to get it running, Then whatever was done has cause those fuses to blow.

Are you sure all the parts your working on are from the original car and its not had new items added meaning wiring, fuse boxes ect or anything else added or replaced that could cause the nats light to flash?
If something has been changed it might require re-coding to the car.
 
Yeah it's certainly taped to the loom and not used.
I'm sure if you keep looking you will find the root problem that's causing your no start up issue.
But would not rule out that possibly needs pluggin into a diagnostic machine that can read the codes.

IMG_20210328_112819.jpg
 
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Sparky2018 said:
Sounds like it's been bodged to me to get it running, Then whatever was done has cause those fuses to blow.

Are you sure all the parts your working on are from the original car and its not had new items added meaning wiring, fuse boxes ect or anything else added or replaced that could cause the nats light to flash?
If something has been changed it might require re-coding to the car.
Click to expand...
The previous owner tried to run an aftermarket radio i think and caused some of the fuses to charr but not blow. They fried a lot of the fuses and the fusible link (replaced them). I think the ipdm is also fried hence why I'm going to try bypass it if I can get it running first
 
Maybe the wires are melted somewhere that your unable to see easy.
Have you looked at the head unit or stereo area for wiring and try to trace those as far back as you can.?
The only time I've heard of fuses blowing cause by radios is when someone installs a subwoofer improperly.
Sometimes the wires get overheated and cause melted wires usually when the wire gauge is wrong type or just not installed with saftey in mind.
 
It ran properly a long time ago, almost a year back. It had the same immobiliser issue but when I shorted the starter it would start up fine. After letting the car sit for a long time the battery went flat completely flat. Now 8 months later i have installed a new battery and so and trying to get it fixed up again.
 
Really what you need is nissan consult or something that can read more than just basic engine codes.
The autel 808 works great for our corsa but I can't comment for micra yet as to how much it will read.
I'm guessing tho that it might not read everything.
Or try to find a trusty mech/auto electrician who would help diagnose the problem quickly for you.
 
It can be a struggle to keep even such a small engine car right.
Don't give up though cause as you said it was running before.
 
Have you ever tried changing the cam shaft sensor this is a common fault part with starting and it's not that expensive to change or complicated for that matter.
Maybe once you sort that wiring out if you still not having any luck try swapping that cam sensor out and see if it works for you.
 
Nope, havent checked the Cam sensor yet. I don't think that would be the issue since its just the injectors not firing, but I know its quite a common fault and will defo check if I can borrow one to see if it fixes the issue
 
Update: The reason why the car wont start is due to the battery running flat. It was left for a long time and probably lost its code. Is there anything I can do to reset it without going to the dealer or spending some money? I have no choice but to sell it otherwise :(
 
Not sure myself maybe someone who has had this happen before or knows more about that issue will be able to answer this question for you.
You should hang on to it until you get an answer cause it might be an easy fix for you.
Maybe you need to reprogram your key to the car or something like that.
If the code has been lost it would cause a no start issue because that would mean that car does not recognise the transponder any more.
I take it you try the spare also and same thing happens.
 
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I would be lost without both when the car locks as im working on the outside nearly once every so often this could happen when your away from home also
 
I had to charge mine about twice and after the second time I just decided to let it run for slightly longer the battery had recently been replaced but I don't like the battery fitting as the shape of the connectors do not work well with the positive connection on the micra k12 its a halfords battery.
There are such things that keep the settings as your battery is charging not sure if they work long term but they plug in to obd and for short term could be handy for others who face the problem of not being able to keep a battery conditioned via running the car as you have faced and i only know this too well because I've had to sit with mine 30 mins ish every day since I got it an all that time mounts up..
But this doubles up as keeping everything else ticking over including topping up the battery.
This item i stumbled on a while back i have no real use for it myself as if I'm to charge it only takes a few hours to recharge a battery.
For you tho this would have been the saver that would have kept all the memory safe but you would of course need a spare to keep it that way.
A 12v battery or any for this matter will loose a lot of voltage over a set amount of weeks or months this would be something to keep in mind when letting a car stand for long periods.
 

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