Urgent help needed urgently lol

Rirteo chums as many of you know i had a problem starting my micra lately in that it wouldnt start at all lol.

anyway i traced this back to the ignition switch at the back of the barrel being worn.

i read on a site (i forget which) from google which said that there was a recall on early micras for the ignition switch. happy days, it said the original unit was all black but the modified unit had a white circle where the switch joined the barrel. so off i went to a scrappy to get one of these.

picked oneup with the white top on it for €30, 'very happy' spent a day fitting it, put it all back together, all wires are connected correctly but now my NATS (nissan anti theft system) light is on.
anybody have any idea why?

the manual says if the light is illuminated to contact nissan immediatley, but then again it says that for all of them, the only other thing it says is if it comes on constantly for 15mins and then goes out that you only have one more chance to start the car. but my light has been on for at least 30mins but i dont want to turn the car off until im sure.

i also put in a second hand set of gauges at the same time today (the rev counter didnt work in my old ones but it does now, less than 3k miles in the difference of the two odometers) and im thinking if the NATS light was on in the donor car would it still be illuminated in mine?

cheers for the help in advance guys and sorry about the essay.
 
Is there a transponder or 'chip' in your key? i know that many people have had similar trouble with the K11's where they have replaced the transponder ring (a bit around or near the ignition barrel) which tells the car that the key is correct, i dont know for sure but you may need the ECU, key and ignition barrel off the donor car in the scrap yard. I may be wrong but others like Frank may be able to confirm this?

Steve
 
no, didnt swap the barrel, just the switch off the end of it, (the opposite end to the aerial transponder) as far as im aware its just a switch and doesnt have to be coded to the car

the car starts and drives fine and locks and unlocks fine, reacting perfectly normal just that the light is on
 
i have a funny feeling it is down to the clocks try putting your'e old clocks in and see if the light goes out a few cars have a problem where the clocks have some form of code in
 
i have a funny feeling it is down to the clocks try putting your'e old clocks in and see if the light goes out a few cars have a problem where the clocks have some form of code in

im beginning to think this too because both the revs and speedo are very 'lumpy' as in the needles dont move smoothly up and down, but the thoughts of taking the dash apart again tonight :( i'l try this in the morning though.

really i should have checked that stuff before i reassembled though lol
 
or it could be the wrong clocks are they out of a different model??

if the old ones work fine thenb it will be the new clocks tht are diferent
 
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