TB solder and clean worked well but....

CMF_Kerr1586

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Hey all,

First: Just want to say this is a brilliant forum and has been very helpful...

So i have a 93 LX micra 1.3 that i brought off a friend two years ago for £150. It has 155000 miles on the clock and has a few problems but just seems to keep going... well untill recently.

So recently it started stalling when stationary just as i was putting my foot down when at traffic lights or something similar, usally about 5 minutes away from the house (it would run fine apart from this). Then the engine wouldn't start again for a while. Undrivable!!

A little while ago i ran it very low on petrol so i thought i had **** in the fuel filter so a changed that... no difference.

Then i found this forum an identified it was probably something to do with the TB. Anyway after i've removed this and resoldered the board and cleaned the IAC valve it runs alot smoother although with a very high idle!!! The stalling problem is fixed however and i will be reducing the idle with the screw on the back of the TB asap but i've noticed now that if i really put my foot down in second and third it doesn't give me any power. I have to drive like a granny to get a smooth ride.

Could this be related to the high idle or are there other things i should adjust?? I've read alot here and picked up bits and bobs about people suggesting measuring the resistance on the ECU and adjusting the throttle position sensor screw but i'm new to this and don't really understand exactly what all that does!!!

Anybody mind giving a brief summary of what my next steps should be and why??? Bear in mind that this is my first attemt at automotive mechanics!!

Cheers.

Kerr1586
 

CMF_Kerr1586

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Changed the idle down yesterday and the car runs like new!!! seriously better than it's been in the last two years i've had it!!! The extreme loss of power that you got when flooring it in 2nd and 3rd has gone! I did have to turn the ignition screw as far down as it would physically go to bring the idle down to normal range though. Is this normal? Didn't check the lamda sensor in the end frank due to having a functional car regardless... thanks for the advice anyway.

Annoyingly though as i had the bonnet up i thought i'd have a look at a clunky wiper problem. The nearside linkage has completely sheared it's white plastic housing.....just when i thought i had a working car again!! typical!

Cheers,

Kerr
 

CMF_Kerr1586

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Sorry i meant idle control screw. On the back of the throttle body. Used to bring the revs down when in idling. I presume that by turning it clockwise and 'reducing the revs' (what i did) this has reduced the air being added to the mix at idle?? Someone can correct me on that if i'm wrong.

 

CMF_Kerr1586

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Ok so i'm having a new problem with the car... It may be related but unsure at the moment. So the car idles alot better now but recently stalled on me once more when applying pressure to the throttle whilst waiting at traffic lights (had to remove fuel pump fuse to get it going)... in addition to this the last three times i've tried to start it (on seperate occasions) it won't start. I need to unplug the fuel pump fuse before it'll start. So the the engine is flooding when off and during use!! Does this mean leaky injector?

I think all my problems may be being caused due to the mixture being too rich and that the TB/IAC valve clean and TB resolder helped to deliver a more regular supply of air but that the overall problem is with fuel supply? Oh and another symptom is that the car is using fuel excessively!!

The problems and solutions as I see it are as follows (please advise):

- Leaky infector/s: Either use injector cleaner or get new injectors.

- Lamda sensors is faulty and teling my ECU to deliver too much fuel: Replace the sensor.

I need to read off the voltage of the lamda sensor to check that out first but does anyone have any input? Is it likely to be one of the problems/solutions listed above or could it be something else? Which solution should i try first?

Cheers,

Kerr

 

CMF_Kerr1586

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Hi all,

Just thought i'd follow up my posts to give info to anyone else who has a similar problem.

So i couldn't get my ECU to put out the codes!! when i joined the two connecters in the fuse box for 2 seconds nothing happened and then a couldn't gain access to the ECU itself to check the LED on that(I probably could have but the whole thing was infuriating at this point!!)

So i changed the fuel injectors and lambda senser out anyway from parts from ebay:

Fuel rail and injectors: £15

New lambda sensor: £30

But this had no effect on the problem.... So i finally phoned my local Nissan dealer and booked it in for a £90 diagnostic. They phoned later that day and said it was that the problem was the coolant temp sensor that links directy to the ECU and that they could change it for a new one for £80. It took them a day to get the part in and i had a free courtesy car for three days untill i could pick the car back up again...

The car runs really well again now with much better fuel economy! Problem solved!!!

Thanks for everyone's help...
Cheers,

Kerr
 
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