T reg micra not start,, help please

I have t reg micra which will not start., i had to have the distributor replced about 2 year ago and its been ok since but recently i started the car as normal, drove about 200 yds then it just cut out and will not restart. R.A.C. enginer came and he tried alsorts. he checked for a spark and its a very good spark,, after few more checks he said it looks like the engine is flooding, he removed the temp sensor lead but still no start, he removed the fuel pump fuse but still not even a glimmer of starting up. he said that it looks like ECU maybe flooding cyls but even when fuel pump fuse removed we still could not get it to fire at all, but spark is good, he tried fuel pump fuse out then after turning engine over recleaning plugs and putting spray into cyls but still not fire,, please can anyone help or offer a solution.
 
Thanks but already tried that... in a way... left the plugs out and fuel pump fuse out and turned engine over to get rid of fuel, then put cleaned plugs back in with spray but still no firing.
 
maybe something has slipped ? (valve/ignition timing) because it should have fired, with a spark and with the injector fuse out :eek:
 
all engine lights appear to be on/off as they should be. done a compression test and apart from one cyl being a bit low other three reading about 200... R.A.C engineer was puzzled as he said there is no reason it should not fire.. apart from the ecu putting way to much fuel in.. but even with fuel pump fuse out we still get no firing. not even the slightest try.
 
I was wondering if it was worth maybe going straight for the ucu and sending it to an ecu doctor or something,, or could the fault lie else where... could a loose/faulty earth wire cause this.. as like i originally stated i had started the car, driven about 200 yds then it just simply cut out.
 
don't think it could be ignition switch because the engine turns over like a good un and produces a good spark, it just will not ignite, it just continually floods then when i check plugs they are wet through.
 
ok...can you tell me whats the easiest way to check if the ignition timing as gone that far out ?
as i have no timing light etc. and also ... how could it go that far out when it was running ok ? as there was no bang or knocking or thud of any sort. it just cut out. but its something to check .
 
ok...can you tell me whats the easiest way to check if the ignition timing as gone that far out ?
as i have no timing light etc. and also ... how could it go that far out when it was running ok ? as there was no bang or knocking or thud of any sort. it just cut out. but its something to check .

you could check that the rotor arm is secure and pointing at cyl #1 ht lead when the crank pulley is lined up with 15 deg btdc (4th notch)
 
it should point to cyl # 4 also at 15 deg btdc (but you would need to lift the cam cover to check if it was 180 deg out)
 
should rotor arm be pointing to ht lead 1. or ht lead 4 ? i'm a little confused now...... is it easy to see the timing notches, ? are the easy to get at ?
but it would seem to make more sense to me that the timing has somehow slipped due to not even trying to fire when fuel pump fuse removed.
any idea how this could have happened while i was driving.( if indeed this has happened ? ).
 
it should be pointing at either 1 or 4 because the cams run at 1/2 crank speed eh, but it wont have jumped 180 deg tho (maybe 1 or 2 teeth if the chain and/or sprockets are worn bad enough)
but it would be worth checking that the rotor arm is secure first
 
is it an easy enough job to jump chain back a tooth or is it a strip down job to get at it ?

antony had one jump a couple of teeth once (when he fitted his avanti cams fwn) but its very rare and your chain and sprockets would have to be in a bad state (and hence unservicable)
 
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