SuperS - Jerky performance - have soldered already HELP

CMF_AandN

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Hi there,

We've just purchased a Micra Super S and have noticed that is has the almost usual jerky acceleration/coughing problem that seems to be symptomatic of the dry joint issue that many people have mentioned here.
We soldered using the guide (which was fantastic, thankyou) but this hasn't solved our problem...

We have also eliminated 'bad' fuel as a cause as well.

Have tried cleaning out the injectors with the petrol additive and have put some 98 octane fuel through.

It seems to be more related to the ambient temp. and therefore the temp in the engine bay. On colder mornings, it coughs less than it does in the afternoons when it's warmer heading home from work.

The fuel economy is also not as great as we think it should be. We do mainly Highway driving as we live about 45-50 kms from work and we're getting just over 6L/100kms.

I saw a couple of posts about a certain wire going past the distributor and picking up interferance, but this problem seems to be heat related.

Any ideas on a cause and fix would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
 

CMF_danarthurton

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i have just started to have the same problem, mine only misses an splutters at a certain temp and certain rev range ( 2000-4500 rpm) when u put in the clutch an rev the tits off it, it seems to pick up ok. i have resoldered an it makes no diffence. Anyone help????????
 

CMF_AandN

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I don't believe that the plug leads are the problem.

There were new plugs and leads on the car when we purchased it. I can't remember which brand they are, but they're the 'premium' available in that brand... will check and get back tonight.
 

CMF_matt.d

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it could be the temperature sensor located on the engine block beneath the distibutor theres 2 of them 1 for the dash temperature and 1 for the ecu which should have bigger plug this is the one that plays up sending wrong temp info to the ecu causing it to run like **** i had same problem and a new one cured it i may be wrong but definately worth a try it worked for me
 

CMF_penpusher

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I am in Sydney.It was very low on fuel and running very very rough and idling pretty wildly.Had to rev the **** out of it to get anywhere. Filled the tank up. Kept running really really rough. Then it started to improve.I put it down to dirty fuel at the bottom of the tank clogging the fuel lines,etc up.Over a period of time it continued to improve until it seemed to disappear.I was a happy chappy. Then after a while it started to misfire again and idle at different revs but not really as rough at idle and running as it was when the fuel was low. Now when driving in different gears it acts differently. For example, in 2nd gear it will run rough,hit certain revs then take off, in 3rd gear it runs rough between 2500 -3000 and when it hits exactly 3000 revs it takes off again. Basically wanted to know what my plan of attack should be.Was thinking to test on different octane ratings on fuel - would this make a difference ? Then change fuel and air filters ? Change spark plugs ? Change spark leads ? What then ? Check temperature sender ? Want to start on easiest & cheapest changes first and move on from there. Any other suggestions for the things i should do and the order I should tackle them ?
 

CMF_frank2

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**** from the tank when running low of fuel is a bit of a myth imo, because the pickup pipe is at the bottom of the tank anyway,
and if the fuel filter was blocked it would only let a small amount of fuel through (only affecting high demand/full throttle)
reading the lambda voltage during warmup is one way to test the coolant temp sensor and other sensors (ie, the lambda should be closed looping, and out of coldsart enrichment mode within a mile or two on a cold morning)
 
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