stuttering under high load, maybe distributor?

stuttering under high load, maybe distributor? // DONE: dirty carb

Hi,

i bought K10 two months ago. During those two months i kinda got together with it, slowly discovering it's weaker spots. It has it 1.0 (988cc if i am right) engine, year 1986, approximately 218000km done (135500 miles)

I have already adjusted some minor issues (previous owner gave me another micra with 1.2 engine in good condition, but after 5 years in garage it does not start - no wonder), like changing wobbly steering bits (some kind of connecting rod between the axle and steering wheel), adjusting idle rpm, blah blah blah - not important.

Now i encountered a slightly bigger problem with the engine. Until week ago, i have been doing short trips, max dist. 50km, max speed not exceeding 90kmph and also not for long time. Last week i made longer trip, two 110 km highway drivings - avg speed 100 kmph. After that, engine is behaving strangely under heavier load. I have to give it more gas / start moving with higher rpm. If i don't, engine loses power - i believe you call it stuttering - when suddenly all 4 cylinders stop for a moment. Also when trying to accelerate harder, or simply pushing throttle down, i hear and also feel "pinging?", just like one of the cylinders drop out. Simply put, when i push the throttle down, i hear regular sound, and maybe every second or twice a second engine loses power like if i cut the ignition.

I have read this forum and found out that it could be the distributor cap and rotor. I wanted to swap both of them between 1.0 and 1.2 engines, but on my working 1.0 engine there is also vacuum advance valve, and on the 1.2 there is only electric connector. I swapped only cap, found out that the rotors have different connections.

After that, i can push the throttle as far as i want and it accelerates without any power outages. BUT, when driving in higher speeds, like 100kmph and pushing throttle down, i can hear a different sound from the exhaust once a second or so - similar to that before, but not so long -engine does not lose enough power to "ping" a lot.

Finally after this essay - i think that the problem was not only in distributor cap, but in distributors angle - bad timing. During playing with distributors and swapping parts, i dismounted it and mounted it again - i marked the position (angle), but i think i did not put it exactly there, maybe 0.25-0.5mm tolerance.

Is that stuttering under load connected with timing? Too retarded or too advanced? I read about checking the correct timing with timing light - is it possible to just fiddle with the angle and by that solve the problem? And if it is confirmed that it was timing, buying timing light and setting exact timing?

Thanks for your patience from Slovakia :)
 
You change Ignition leads?Plugs,distributor car and rotor arm?
Sounds like a missfire there also maybe the vacuum advance unit is faulty? Timing is 5degrees btdc on the ma10
 
I checked HT leads - all fine except the fifth between dizzy and coil. The part going to the coil was badly oxidized, so i swapped this one from another car. Then measured resistance, all fine. (Last week.)

Spark plugs were checked too, slight brown surface -i think that is good if i remember correctly. Next month i will probably buy new, when pay check arrives. (Checked last week)

Distributor body is still there, i could not change that. Rotor too - the metal head is not very shiny and generally looks a bit.. rough. I should probably change that too if i can find it in local shops

Dizzy cap is a problem - old one has small cracks near HT leads and looked like crap. So i swapped it for the one from another micra - those metal rods touching rotor arm are not exactly rods - they are of a half moon shape and a bit rough too - nearly same as the old cap. Bigger problem is dizzy cap's connection - it is connected to the dizzy body with two screws.. Previous owner managed to snap one screw in a way, that the part on the metal dizzy body is stuck there and not coming out... so the dizzy cap is held there by one screw and on the other side by strong twisted wire. Nothing moves, though.

Small update:

Today I made two 15 km trips. During first, absolutely no problems -maybe slight misfiring(if thats the word for milisecond long power outage), 3 a 4 times a minute. (Stable speed 80kph)

Second - while the engine was cold, no problems, not even slight change in sound. After 3 minutes on highway i could sometimes hear mentioned misfire, but 1 km from my home, traveling stable, full power outage - like if somebody cut the ignition and left the key in "ACC" position. I left the gear in for 3 seconds hoping it will come back on, but no.. i had to step on clutch, wait for the motor to stop and then try starter - nothing.. dead. I stopped, waited 20 seconds and tried to start -and it jumped back fine, like if nothing happened.

500m later, same scenario -dead engine, stop, wait, start, return on road.

What do you think?
 
not a bad idea - when i changed the oxidized HT lead from coil do dizzy, i could have thought about the fact, that not only cable, but coil connector could be oxidized too. Tomorrow i will try to swap coils between 1.0 and 1.2. The coil on 1.2 is a LOT different, but i suppose that i need only small connection modification and that would be it. hopefully.
 
i think most k10,s have a balast resistor, so your coils may be differant voltages (but it should still be ok to try it out tho eh) :)
 
on my motorbikes when they misfired when hot and not cold it was often the condensor? hope this helps

cheers

steve
 
well, that gives me 2 things to check/swap..

on the other hand, how would you explain the full cut off? If it was loose dizzy cap, i think it wont start until i touched it.. and it is not loose, even considering that one half is held in a place with wire, it is really tough.. when it cuts off, most times i get out of a car and fiddle with all HT leads and such.. but i tried "restart" without touching it, and it ran fine.

by the way, i made another 100km trip and it died after 5 km and then after small fiddling ran fine through the rest of the trip..

..going to check the coil and condenser, thanks for your help for now :)

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edit: some pics of old dizzy cap (new is not much better when talking about the terminals), old HT lead, and that silly improvisation on distributor cap
http://i39.tinypic.com/f3vmf5.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/687l2v.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/rj4001.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/2sbwvb7.jpg

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edit2: carb cleaner sorted it out - no problems now :) thanks for your ideas
 
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