Steering: adjusting centre point and toe with tie rods? (lowered 50 and 60mm)

SteveG

Intake n exhaust almost done, suspension next :)
I've replaced the front suspension with KYB Excel-G K11 shocks and HOL tarmac springs, and rear suspension with KYB Excel-G Corsa-B shocks and HOL tarmac springs. Springs are 50 and 60mm drop.

I'm determined to get the Noddy adjustable panhard rod on to sort the back offset out. But what is much more noticeably affecting the handling of the car is that the steering centre is offset by about an inch of steering wheel circumference and the front wheels have visible toe out.

At some point when I have time I'll take the car to the garage to get the wheels aligned properly, but in the meantime I'm hoping to get rid of the toe out and hopefully also correct the steering centre.

I know I can adjust the toe angle by adjusting the tie rods equally, but can I also adjust the centre point by adjusting them different amounts/directions?

I spent about half an hour looking for my Haynes manual and I have no idea where it is, and all information I've found so far on how to adjust toe seem to assume that you already what you're doing with the tie rod nuts and whatever spins around.

Maybe it will make sense once I get under the car and look for the tie rod nut and start turning stuff, but in case it doesn't, anyone got any pointers? Adjusting for toe seems straightforward in principal (probably tedious and iterative in practise) but I'm unsure about the centering?

Edit: found the FA (Front Axle) section of the workshop(?) manual on dropbox... I think it says how to do it all :)
 
Last edited:
yes you should in theory just have to adjust both trackrod ends steve, but one side might need more if the wheel is offcentre eh :)
 
I managed to get the panhard rod on, so that was a success. But I found that I have a pretty small collection of open ended spanners, and only one suitably long handled adjustable spanner, so I couldn't get the locknuts undone. I tried molegrips and the adjustable and failed miserably... it's probably dead easy with the right size open ended spanners (maybe 19mm?)

So, I'll probably skip doing it roughly, and just take it to the garage and get it done... probably only a few quid more than spanners haha
 
I managed to get the panhard rod on, so that was a success. But I found that I have a pretty small collection of open ended spanners, and only one suitably long handled adjustable spanner, so I couldn't get the locknuts undone. I tried molegrips and the adjustable and failed miserably... it's probably dead easy with the right size open ended spanners (maybe 19mm?)

So, I'll probably skip doing it roughly, and just take it to the garage and get it done... probably only a few quid more than spanners haha

I would go an buy a set of spanners mate. Look at it as an investment and when the next repair job comes up you will have the tools to tackle it.
A good set of spanners will last a lifetime
 
Yeah too true... I definitely have issues when a socket won't do! Will have a look around
 
I now own a spanner set from 6mm to 32mm... probably will have to wait til the weekend to tit about with steering adjustments rather than try to do it in the dark
 
did it by trial and error to get it centred, and by eye to get rid of the toe out... stays nice and centred driving straight along the ridge of a road, and no more squealing sound effects round car parks. It might not be dead on perfect, but it's definitely a load better than it was, so no massive danger of tyre wear. I might invest in one of those ride over tracking gadgets if I find one on sale or something. was brilliant having a full set of proper spanners , needed a 13, 19 and 20mm :)
 
Just to give you a bit more piece of mind. I adjusted mine by eye also to remove toe out after replacing the track rod ends. I've had no strange or excessive tyre wear. I also always adjust my tracking so my steering wheel is at about 2 o'clock from horizontal, as I do motorway miles and like to rest my arm on the door and have a gap for my hand on the wheel. Lazy? Yup.
 
Ah that's good to hear yeah. Haha, that is a bit lazy with the offset wheel. I switched my wheel out for a 3 spoke deep dish, so there's a lot more to hold onto (even though I'm pretty certain it's a smaller diameter). I can only do the arm on the door driving in crawling traffic, a couple times I've had to swerve at ~60mph when some nobhead slams on their ABS brakes... fortunately my driving instructor trained me on gravel with cones so I can actually control a swerve! Anyway, 10 and 2 for me lol
 
Back
Top