Thanks Matt1897. When you say 2 10mm nuts, do you mean the 2 hex headed screws fixing the feet of the tin bracket to the floor of the car? That's the nearest this one has. I live in Worcester, so any help would be very much appreciated, please.
Thanks also Mr Alienfish360. When it is cold, it runs Ok. After 2 to 3 miles, in traffic it kangaroos and misfires when under load. However, this morning, I took it to work and it went all the way (about 6 miles) with only a minor misfire. The difference was that it was in a rural area, and I was able to keep it at a steady speed without having to change down. It cruised up a very long and steep hill with only a minor misfire. In town, where there is plenty of gearchanging, pulling away under load etc, it kangaroos and misfires dreadfully. Only when it warms up, though.
I'm going to put a new throttle body and distributor on it, whether it needs them or not. They are about £90-odd each on the internet, and I figure that as the car has done 67k miles (allegedly), if they are not dodgy now, they soon will be. However, even if that cures it, I still want to know how to read the self-diagniostics.
Thanks for all your help guys.
I've just been looking on the internet, and there seem to be a lot of portable code readers on the market, either PC-based or hand-held. Are any of these to be recommended, and do any of them work on this M-reg K11? In the long term, it looks a lot easier than pulling the ECU out every time you want to run a test. Thanks guys
Latest news, guys. I've just got down with a torch and a mirror, and I'm sure there aren't any leds on the back of the ECU facing to the front of the car. Could it be that some cars didn't have the facility? It does have a socket at the bottom of the fuseboard, though. Thanks again.
