rough running K10 SS

[Courior]

I hope you can help me!
I have the SS which is 1.2 and has an ecc carb.. above 3k revs its fine and pulls/cruises smoothly. but under that its a bit different. It idles rough and you can clearly hear it missing a fire every now and then. when cruising at a steady speed the missfire makes it slightly juddery, and if i am cruising at say 2.5k revs and just put my foot down it bogs down and accellerates not as quick as it should then at 3k starts to pull stronger. it only does this if im cruising then accelerate, if i am going from a standstill it pulls no problem. Now, what could this be.. there is only 46K on the clock so its not old. and Fordy has done a MAJOR service inc timing belts and everything. i did change all electric components EXCEPT the rotor arm. and still the same. I first need to work out if its an electrical or fuel problem. one theory i had was the oxygen sensor is bust and therefore the car is being fueled badly (it does drink more fuel than it should slightly).

any ideas welcome!!!

as a note: problem is apparent hot or cold.

 

[james betley]

have u check the spark plugs leads it mite be a bit loose if not check the spark plugs that is all i can think of at the moment

 

[Micra 110]

Could be the Coil, Rotor arm, Worn Jets, Fuel/Air mix, Bad Earth, Water in the system....

 

[Courior]

funnily enough, it seemed to be improving as i was changing things, but then after the leads were changed it got worse. They are BOSCHE leads (spelling). might put the nissan ones back on.

Also some more info. when coming down the revs it backfires pretty badly.

 

[sonic]

It sounds like a vacuum pipe has either come off or is split to me.

 

[Courior]

thats 2 votes for vacume pipe, and i swear i can here hissing when i put me ear close to the carb... but theres so many bloody vacume hoses!!! its cheap to buy, but its gonna take HOURS! lol ... Fordy mate, might have to pop round to yours soon! hehe..

any more suggestions?? my dad rekons a faulty cat could make an engine run rough?

 

[sonic]

get rid of the ecc carb set up altogether, it's just more to go wrong on an easy to work on engine.

 

[Arnold]

Bin the bosch leads and other Bosch ignition components as 9/10 times they're crap. You should get NGK plugs if you haven't already, and make sure the gap is set. I'm sure fordy would have done that anyway. Nissan leads are well worth it, but cost about £40.

Rotor arm might just need cleaning up, scrape any surface dirt or burn off the metal connector, or you could just replace it as they're not expensive.

If the Cat was nackered, it would smell like Egg! A good way to tell if that's at fault.

Another thing, although something has been replaced, never assume the repaced part isn't at fault. I always used to think that new parts were never the cause for problems, but that's not always the case.

 

[Fordy]

im trying to work out a saturday i can do courior and we will have a play swaping bits from mine to yours, juts got back off holiday so give me a bit to sort some little stuff out first

 

[Courior]

no worries mate. its at your discresion when i come up to visit. obviously would like car fixed asap but anytime dude. im gonna try new rotor arm tommorrow. I binned the boshe leads and one cap fell off as i pulled it off!! great quality LOL. the only thing i didnt do properly is i just wacked in the plugs without checking the gap. would a bad gap cause this prob?? also the tappetts sound noisy.. another thing i noticed is that driving gently with a bit of traffic and about an hour on the motorway i got 38mpg. i have a slightly heavy right foot and have redex in the tank.

Cheers all esp Fordy

 

[Fordy]

put them nissan leads back on if you have them i thought you binned them,

you can come over on the 18th if you are free, at least if we need anything i can nip into work to grab stuff

have you sorted out the right rotor arm yet?

i want to check your fuel filter doesnt have alot of crap in the bottom floating around but since its not clear like nissan ones, yours needs taking off and draining into a clean cup to see what comes out from the bottom of it

this missfire you have mate, is it like a weak spark? or more than that, coming home today i was going along slowly accelerating in 5th and the lost all 4 cylinders and i watched the rev counter drop from 3k to 2k and then it all came back alive and rev counter went back up to 3k this was a really quick switch as if the ignition was switched off and on again but the car did the rest 200+ miles faultless
i might change my ignition relay just incase

if you need any parts mate let me know and i'll get them from work with so its not so bad on the price

 

[AMY]

Courior, does it pop if you lightly press the clutch under de-acceleration? And is it jery when trying to hold a constant speed with the revs under 3k?

 

[Courior]

AMY.. when the motor is de-accellerating either in gear or in neutral it pops. and yes is un-even trying to hold ANY revs under 3K. and if i rev it up to 5K in neutral when the rev are returning to idle the poping starts as it hits around 3.2k and pops till idle.

Fordy -- I changed the rotor arm and its STILL the wrong one... can you get me one from work for a special price hehe. i put nissan leads on and no difference. I can make it on the 18th no probs. what parts do you think i should get? maybe you can put some parts off the doner car you have, and then you get some project money or as you said we can nip into your work. a couple of people have mentioned vacume leads so maybe get a long bit of that we can chop up if its cheap. OH YEAH.. how much would an Oil Pressure Switch be?? mine leaks oil... also i want to do something with the exhaust so ill bring lots of exhaust parts with me as well.. lemme know if you think of anything i can try in the mean time. Cheers

EDIT: about the weak spark thing... it might be.. the cylinder doesnt Misfire 100% it kinda half fires. when changing the plugs i did notice that plug 3 (1 nearest battery) was very sooty and the others were perfect. as mentioned before i didnt 'gap' the plugs.. does this make much diffo?

EDIT2: god bless the edit button... would this help fordy??
o ECC Boost sensor
o ECC + manifold and sensors
o ECC Distributor
o ECC Coil
o ECC Power Transistor

if so ill buy it from superls

cheers yet again!

 

[Fordy]

the more ecc parts the better mate, as the only ecc parts i've got spare is a dissy, and i'd rather not take major stuff of mine

 

[AMY]

The Ec carb has a fuel cut out solenoid, there is a switch on the clutch pedal to restrict fuel supply when the clutch is depressed. I think you will find that your problems relate to the fuel solenoid attached to the carb.

 

[Speedle]

funnily enough, it seemed to be improving as i was changing things, but then after the leads were changed it got worse. They are BOSCHE leads (spelling). might put the nissan ones back on.

Also some more info. when coming down the revs it backfires pretty badly.

i used bosche leads on one of my k10's a while back and they were nothing but trouble mate the leads and plugs they make are crap, i'd personally say thats the problem as ive had this problem before and the leads were the problem

also there is an ECC k10 with 40k on it down my local scrappy so if you need anything let me know and i can post it up to you mate it still has all the bits on it dissy sensors carb etc etc

 

[Courior]

speedle -- where is the scrappy?? maybe i can get stuff myself to save you the hassle? prob want the carb, erm. any solenoids and gadgety bits.

Fordy -- can we remove my EGR system when im there please?

 

[Speedle]

its in emsworth mate place called G&R Harris, its about 15 mins from Portsmouth, i've got no problems getting you the bits mate as its down the road from me.

 

[Arnold]

also there is an ECC k10 with 40k on it down my local scrappy

Is it a super s fella?

 

[Speedle]

no mate just a k reg 1.2

 

[Fordy]

The Ec carb has a fuel cut out solenoid, there is a switch on the clutch pedal to restrict fuel supply when the clutch is depressed. I think you will find that your problems relate to the fuel solenoid attached to the carb.

cheers amy i'll give that a look aswell any more info that you have would be great

this is very strange now
cause mine admittly has gotten slower, before i could get 100mph out of mine, now mines struggling to get past 90

but even stranger is i havent adjusted or changing anything that would cause it to go slower if its messed up or anything, ive put a new cap, rotor and changed the plugs, fuel filter and air filter, checked the timing, its better idleing and so on but its still not the same

if cruising along and i put my foot down slowing to accelerate it will go fine up to a point when the pedal goes down more it actually feels like the cars flooding the engine goes flat as a fart

ive checked the float level and it was at the top, didnt do anything as i was busy for a few days i ordered a new needle valve for the float, checked it again a different day and found it was correct in the middle so didnt adjust it or change the valve now im thinking that the fuel cut out solenoid is playing up causing the float to fill up higher than it should at times but its just an idea

only problem is i cant kill my car off for a week so have to fix it over a weekend which isnt ideal
got a few more things to check and ideas but im running out of them

mines kinda flat up to 3k then springs to life and goes up to 90 and stops there

hmm very strange fault might take some working out

 

[Courior]

Fordy, About what you said when you "roll" on the throttle gently it pulls good, then if you hammer the pedal down it floods... EXACTLY what mine does. mine also has a very odd idle, sometimes it idles at 600rpm. others 900rpm (nothing to do with lights/fan/other electrics).. wierd.

 

[Arnold]

Anything to do with temperature Courior? Mine idles around 900 when it's cold and 500 when it's hot.

 

[Courior]

the temp dont make any difference to it. it floods a little when started and its hot but i think that the auto choke coming till i rev it.

 

[Courior]

Update:

Its finally running 99.9% as it should! .. it still has a slightly uneven idle and sometimes its a little jumpy when your JUUUUUSTTT touching the gas pedal but i think this is true of all carbed cars/bikes. But now when driving and I decide to overtake etc it pulls like a train with no bogging down/stuttering.

I took it up to Fordy's who worked his magic and after 20 mins said "yeah mate its all done let go for a test drive" lol!! all he did was timing and replaced a vacume hose, and also put my spark plugs in properly LOL!! Im sure he can add a bit more techy stuff to this post if people want..

I also got my central locking installed and a new exhaust put on! (oh yeah.. if your changing an exhaust start it up with the rear section off.. DAMN IT WAS A NICE SOUND!! V like a Scooby!! hehe )

Many thanks to fordy again and next time it breaks i know where to go lol.. well worth the 80 mile drive to see him!

Note to fordy:-- On the way home i got 70 miles out of 1/8th of a tank!! so thats around 140miles to a 1/4 tank at 60-65mph (indicated 55-60mph GPS)
AWESOME!

Im now one very happy SS owner lol!!

Cheers Fordy!!!

 

[Fordy]

woop another happy customer of fordys motors :laugh:

i must admit with the back box section off, it did sound nice alot like a rally k10 but muffled by the last cat