Rear Wheel Bearing replacement

1) Is changing the Rear Wheel Bearings relatively simple ??

My car has just beeen through an MOT & failed on "rear wheel bearing feels rough when rotated".

Anyone know what this means ??

I have just changed brake shoe on that rear wheel & you can slightly "feel" the bearing at points when wheel is rotated. But it's not very much & still smooth.

Is being able to feel the bearing ok or not ??

Is that what it means, should it be completely smooth & you should not be able to feel the bearing when wheel is rotated ??


2) When I changed rear brake shoe, outer bearing came out with brake drum.
I did not remove inner bearing.

Do you just remove Grease Seal to remove Inner Bearing from brake drum ??

Is that it or is there anything more to it ??

And where do you get the Grease Seal, as they say not to reuse ??
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john, the early k10,s were taper bearings i think, you did,nt fire the nut up too tight did you ? :eek:
No, i did nut up hand tight.

Tried to follow Haynes manual.
Tightened (not too tight), rotated wheel, loosened, then hand tight.

(when I undid that nut, it was only hand tight, no force needed to undo)
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No, i did nut up hand tight.

Tried to follow Haynes manual.
Tightened (not too tight), rotated wheel, loosened, then hand tight.

(when I undid that nut, it was only hand tight, no force needed to undo)

john, is it not hand tight then back-off 90deg ? (if a taper bearing is too tight, it will feel rough) :)
 
john, is it not hand tight then back-off 90deg ? (if a taper bearing is too tight, it will feel rough) :)
I'm guessing how to tighten as I haven't got torque wrench yet.
When I undid nut, it was hand tight, so that's what I've done.

Haynes says to tighten I think to 30Nm, then slacken off by 90 deg.

The workshop manual here:

Full Workshop Manual -Links to Useful Threads

says to tighten to 25-34Nm, loosen to 0Nm, then tighten to 9-12Nm.
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I checked feel of O/S wheel when I changed brake shoes & this wheel is smooth & you cannot feel the bearing when you rotate wheel. The hub nut was also tighter than the N/S wheel where you can feel bearing & it failed MOT as "bearing feeling rough".

I will get this bearing changed & am thinking of doing myself, as looks easily accesible when I took drum off.

I did not take off inner Grease Seal behind which is the Inner Bearing.

Is it easy to remove & fit new Grease Seal from brake drum for the inner bearing ??
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Left it to garage to change Rear Wheel Bearing as not sure how easy it is to remove old ring the bearing sits in & insert new one.

Manual says to use special tool or press, so I assume it could be tight & maybe difficult to get out & in.

This is what came in wheel bearing kit:

Inner & outer bearings
Inner & outer rings
Grease seal & grease
Split-pin

DSCF9992.jpg


DSCF9988.jpg
 
Where you get the kit from and how much, bear in mind that the bearings will wear in pairs, so may be worth it in the long run if you do them both together. just a thought?
 
Wheel Bearing Install Tip

If any of you have never installed wheel bearings take to a garage and have a mechanic show you.
I have found after removing the old bearings from the hubs if you deep freeze the outer races for a 3-4 hrs they will shink and can be installed by hand, no need for hydraulic press. Just be sure to freeze the races ONLY and WORK FAST, as when warmed they will expand, also KEEP DRY.(Y)
 
Left it to garage to change Rear Wheel Bearing as not sure how easy it is to remove old ring the bearing sits in & insert new one.

Manual says to use special tool or press, so I assume it could be tight & maybe difficult to get out & in.

This is what came in wheel bearing kit:

Inner & outer bearings
Inner & outer rings
Grease seal & grease
Split-pin

DSCF9992.jpg


DSCF9988.jpg


Where did you get your kit from? as i cant seem to fit them :S
 
I don't know the ins and outs of the K10, but I do know of cars which use either tapered roller or ball races on the same shaft and hub.
 
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