Radiator replacement - Help. Upper cross member/beam

Hi all,

K11 facelift, 998cc. 02 plate.

Any thoughts appreciated. Any advice based on practical experience most appreciated!



Suffered a radiator leak which radweld wouldn't even touch; so replacing.

Attempted to take the unscrew the four self-tapping bolts holding the 'upper cross member' in place, in order facilitate easy radiator removal BUT all four bolt heads just sheared right off under minimal pressure.

I'm reusing photos from existing threads, as i'm not able to take any of my own just yet .....
VToShzL.jpg

So, it's the 2 bolts directly to the right of the right hand radiator 'grommit', and the same has happened on the left too.

The upside is that the beam will come away, once the 2 nuts on the far left of the picture (holding in a protective plate?) are removed too. But what do to replace the sheared bolts? Is it a legitimate course of action to drill the remainder out and replace with a nut and bolt? Can I just leave them as they are?? The top beam is presumably not at all structural?

If I must drill them out - how is this done? I understand the priciple but have never done this before; is there a special drill bit? How do I best retain the self tapping/threaded section so I don't have to use a nut?

What about the welding next to the now sheared 10mm bolts? Is it welding or some kind of adhesive? In any case, it was cracked through prior to my trying to remove the bolts. Does this welding need to be remedied?

I'm also a little weary about removing the 2 nuts holding the plate to the cross beam. Although I soaked them all in "autogas" the first four still sheared and I feel that these might go the same way. Worst case scenario I guess these can be replaced with the appropriately sized nut and bolt?

What about the brace between the upper beam and the lower cross member? Can this be saftly unbolted in general? And if it should suffer the same fate as the 10mm bolts holding in the upper member?

Many Thanks
 
Just drill them out and put nuts and bolts in. That's what I'd do if I were you. It's just sealant at the edges of that top panel. It's not structural. Start with a 3mm drill bit then open them out to 6mm. If you're a stickler for perfection I'd drill out to 10mm and put rivnuts in, but that's another story. If you check out my blog you'll see that top panel removed and also what rivnuts are. You can safely unbolt the upper to lower brace.
Be careful this time. Loosen each bolt and if it sticks screw it back in with more wd40, then back out again a little further.
 
Thanks A.S.

Been a while but I got around to a bit more work today; Removed the radiator in anticipation of new radiator delivery. It had clearly rusted through at the lower chamber/resevoir. Anyway, looked in to rivnuts, might go that route, just waiting on cobolt drill bits at present.
In the meantime, can you recommend a half decent brush on product to help seal minor rust areas in the engine bay?
 
If its just surface rust and not very deep, I wire brush it as much as I can, then apply Hammerite rust gel. Once you've cleaned that up, paint it with some Hammerite and after that if I'm doing the cross member I finish with underseal with waxoil in.
 
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