I get the blocks machined TO the pistons. That means if one pistons is slightly different size to another we can account for it.
Absolutely CANNOT swap the main cage from one block to another.
That would probably be fine but I'd want to see what you had done to the cage first.
NO way!!!!!!! Completely out of the question. JE have done it the way they have as their R&D would have shown it works. Do NOT touch the pistons in any way at all!!
First bit fine - but DO NOT touch the pistons.
Not if your following my guides. The rings on a diamond honed bore hardly change at all. You gap to the spec I suggest, and leave it at that.
No, you use the correct rings for the job, If you are unsure send me the pistons and I'll get a ring set for you.
Sounds fine, run in with 15/40 mineral oil.
I get a new engine up to temp in the workshop holding it between 2-4K rpm doing short small bursts, if no leaks then take if for a quick short drive doing the same but little less rpm if anything, then back again for a checkup. If its all good then I'll take it out for a longer drive say 20 miles light to medium throttle upto 3-4K. If turbo I will show the engine a few psi of boost. After the 20 miles I drop the oil and change it for 15w40 again. Allow it to totally cool and then repeat the drive. After this the engine if built correctly will be dry and smoke free. It doesn't take long, diamond honed bores settle in REALLY quickly. Then 1000 miles and onto 5/50 fully synth race oil.
