Oil gallery plug
- Thread starter marco2002
- Start date
I wouldn't know and I wouldn't bother looking that up. A new copper ring and the torque you will find on websites for the thickness of the thread you have there is a start. But I suppose a lot lower torque will work also.
Another way is a new copper ring, fasten it a bit and see what happens.
Best with mild warm engine. If you do this on a hot engine the torque will be higher when it has cooled off. It might also give trouble getting it unplugged again.
Most people use their gut for this torque. Also reusing that copper ring for a second time is not a big deal. If it goes wrong, get a new copper ring, open it quickly, plug it with something, you finger maybe and put the plug back and add some oil. It is that simple.
Another way is a new copper ring, fasten it a bit and see what happens.
Best with mild warm engine. If you do this on a hot engine the torque will be higher when it has cooled off. It might also give trouble getting it unplugged again.
Most people use their gut for this torque. Also reusing that copper ring for a second time is not a big deal. If it goes wrong, get a new copper ring, open it quickly, plug it with something, you finger maybe and put the plug back and add some oil. It is that simple.
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Thanks for that bit of info. Is it worth putting a bit of blue loctite on the threads as well?
Thanks
Marco
If you happen to have blue loctite around it wouldn't hurt but this will prevent loosening the plug by itself. It won't help sealing. A copper ring or a used one, the copper is softer then the plug that is made of steel or the oil pan that is made of steel.
Physics will make sure a steel plug and a steel oil pan will seal with some metal in between that is softer. That is why copper is being used.
That is also why you can reuse a copper ring. While it has been flattened from the first torque, a second torque it will still seal because the copper is softer then the steel. This second torque is a bit tighter but still well below maximum torque for the thickness of your plug.
Physics will make sure a steel plug and a steel oil pan will seal with some metal in between that is softer. That is why copper is being used.
That is also why you can reuse a copper ring. While it has been flattened from the first torque, a second torque it will still seal because the copper is softer then the steel. This second torque is a bit tighter but still well below maximum torque for the thickness of your plug.
Thanks for that guys .So no loctite then. I have a brand new washer here too. Just took the gearbox off this afternoon. Ran out of time and daylight but I will get the clutch and flywheel off tnite and see what's happening. It was pita getting that gearbox off put up a bit of a fight. I will let you know how I get on.
pollyp
Club Member
from my own experience I wouldn't bother disturbing that gallery plug (unless it's being machined etc) cos once I loosened it on one of my engines, it's always leaked a tiny bit of oil even with new washers.
also be very careful not to over-tighten it cos it's a soft aluminium thread.
once you feel it get looser after overtightening, the threads are ruined and it's game over. you'll either need to helicoil repair the thread or replace the block :/
also be very careful not to over-tighten it cos it's a soft aluminium thread.
once you feel it get looser after overtightening, the threads are ruined and it's game over. you'll either need to helicoil repair the thread or replace the block :/
I will bear that in mind. I'm going to have a look at the rear main seal as well tommorow Just had a quick look at the gearbox and there's a fine line of engine oil right at the edge in line with where the flywheel sits. Luckily the clutch/ pressure looks intact no oil contamination after 600 miles on the new clutch. I'm going to carry on with it tommorow as it's a bit cold outside now.
Yes, what .Maarten says. I see my mesage wasn't the clearest. If you put a drop of loctite on there after closing the hole it will give you peace of mind but little more then that technically.
I also learned now sanding copper rings is a good idea. I never thought of that, but I did bleed brakes several times and nobody seems to worry about all the copper rings per calliper. This is pressurized and there is just reasonable torque necessary to stop it leaking.
Hi everyone I've had a really good look at the oil leak there was a small bit of oil sitting in the recess below the rear main seal slap bang in the middle. The oil gallery plug is fine so I'm glad not to have to touch that tbh. I have got a new rear main oil seal here so I might just bite the bullet and fit it tnite and while I'm there redo the sump just to be 100% sure. The last time I did the main seal I drilled a small hole in it and used a self tapping screw and then gently pulled it out. I could have done it the other way and took that plate out that the seal sits in but I think that's a bit more hassle. The clutch/ flywheel all look fine so I'm pleased with that .Looks like I have a long night ahead of me. Gearbox back on tommorow hopefully. Fingers crossed. Lol
Update just took the rear main seal out and I can see the oil has got past the seal at the bottom on the outside edge nearest to the sump. When I put it in about a month ago now I tapped it in using the old oil seal until it was flush I used a smear of engine oil on the inner lip. The original oil seal made by nissan looked better than the ones they supply now it's gone from an 11mm width to 8.4mm. If you buy one from the main dealer its about £28 as opposed to £7 made by Elring from ec parts
Non fitting oem rubbers, those tend to. If you need or are able to order a lot of parts or few expensive parts compared to what you get, buying original parts from Nissan America via via might be cheaper. Getting it posted by boat can be a challenge. For light stuff this doesn't matter much. I don't remember who sells those original Nissan parts but there are some companies around.
Hi everyone I'm on the home straight now. New rear main seal and new copper washer fitted on oil gallery plug. The plug didn't look to bad I could see traces of red loctite on the threads so I'm thinking it's the original. I managed to get it done up nice and tight. Didn't strip the thread on it. I had PollyP's post in my head as I tightened that plug. So so far so good. Gearbox went back on fairly easily with my engine beam it all lined up a lot easier than last time. Just off out again to get the driveshafts fitted and put the oil in and reconnect all the odds and ends.....
Good to hear it worked out. Nissan uses black RTV so I think it is not original. Nissan also uses RTV very small and very tidy.
Good morning just going to finish off as the weather took a turn for the worse last night.
The main seal I took out was a nissan part looks practically the same as the Elring part its a brown colour and it's a silicone elastomer the width is 11mm and seal I put in is 8.4 over the years the part has been superseded a number of times according to the nissan dealer. The new seal went in easy enough I tapped it in flush with the edge as I did read somewhere if you push it in too far you would have trouble taking it out again lol.
The main seal I took out was a nissan part looks practically the same as the Elring part its a brown colour and it's a silicone elastomer the width is 11mm and seal I put in is 8.4 over the years the part has been superseded a number of times according to the nissan dealer. The new seal went in easy enough I tapped it in flush with the edge as I did read somewhere if you push it in too far you would have trouble taking it out again lol.
I'm confused. Are you saying there is a different colour used by Nissan or are you speaking about a seal as a Nissan or other manufacturer part?
Bad news after all that work it's still leaking!!
Might be time to buy the nissan part. When I put the new seal in it was flush at the end of the housing. The new seal was 8.4mm width and the old one was 11mm width so there was a small gap behind the seal and I'm wondering if the amount of oil/pressure in that gap even though it's only 3mm we are a talking about is causing the oil leak. Anyway time to get on the phone and order the nissan part.
Might be time to buy the nissan part. When I put the new seal in it was flush at the end of the housing. The new seal was 8.4mm width and the old one was 11mm width so there was a small gap behind the seal and I'm wondering if the amount of oil/pressure in that gap even though it's only 3mm we are a talking about is causing the oil leak. Anyway time to get on the phone and order the nissan part.
Didn't think of that Frank . Is it easy to check not had to do that before? Do you have to take the sump off to have a look? If you could give me a point in the right direction it would be appreciated Frank as my patience with this car is wearing a bit thin now. Lol I did spend quite a bit of time cleaning the crankshaft where the seals been for the last 20 years and it didn't have a gouge in it. It's a low mileage Micra only done 72,000 miles so I'd be surprised if the bearings worn i guess anything is possible I change the oil regularly about every 6months....
Is an oil leak an MOT advise or a fail now as I guess it's classed as an environmental problem might have to stick a catch can on the centre beam until it's sorted lol.
Is an oil leak an MOT advise or a fail now as I guess it's classed as an environmental problem might have to stick a catch can on the centre beam until it's sorted lol.
frank
Club Member
they had a shiny wear ring like this mate, hard to see without a mirror and torch ? i checked the seal over the crank and it was snug on the journal but went sloppy when it was on the wear ring, the seal would probably have been ok if it was fitted out of position but i fitted it fully home with the big o ring squashing it down instead
Thanks Frank Just looked at the picture my crank is in very good condition there was a small mark where the seal sat which I cleaned up with some very fine Emery paper as best I could sat under the car. So does the O ring go behind the seal where the spring sits?
On you tube I've seen people use metal inserts on the crank where the journals worn. I'm beginning to think I should have took the housing plate out that the seal sits in and put the new one on in my workshop on the bench.
On you tube I've seen people use metal inserts on the crank where the journals worn. I'm beginning to think I should have took the housing plate out that the seal sits in and put the new one on in my workshop on the bench.
Well to be honest I didn't measure that frank and I couldn't tell you how much play is in it as the gearbox went back on last night. I have a dial guage at home is that probably what you use to measure the play in it? When I did the clutch I did use the run out gauge on the flywheel and it was ok.
I will have a look at that tommorow. Thanks for your help Frank. Once I've got this sorted out and MOT'd I can get on with the other Micra 1.3 project car I've got sitting here lol
Hi everyone just an update I finally got round to taking the gearbox off again and I have fitted the nissan rear oil seal it doesn't leak lol. Looked at the oil gallery plug and it's dry. Took me most of the weekend in between showers.the Micra will be going in for MOT next week one of the shocks is leaking so that will need doing too.
Micra passed the MOT today. What a relief! Lol
