Nistune

Stani1029

Club Member
Right ive had to phone the place back regarding mapping and they are asking if i had a usb port fitted to my ecu at the same time as the board. I thought this was standard but if someone could clear this up for me? Also the software is built in? And i need a PLMS cable yeah?
 
to connect a laptop running nistune software to the nistune board on ur ecu you'll need a nissan consult head cable connected to the diagnostic port with the other end either a serial head or a usb head.
Ed's the specialist to talk to, i think for realtime tuning the serial port option is more efficient.
my usb consult cable occasionally crashes from interference and too slow for any realtime tuning & monitoring.
 
As pollyp says, you need a consult/PLMS, (which I cannot help but want to type PMSL every time grr!), to connect up to the ECU.

No need to worry about software, they should have a tuner license version.

It does worry me a little though that they ask such a question re: having a USB port. These guys are official and experienced Nistune mappers aren't they?
 
They havent done alot of nistune and the most recent guy brought his own cable. They arent distributors either, ill be calling them back tomorrow
 
Im not worried so dont you guys be, this place has done my mates 280whp glanza so they know there stuff. i just want my car mapped, ive always been stuck at this stage and im pissed off with never progressing so as soon as someone whos in the business says they will do it im going to jump at it
 
Im not worried so dont you guys be, this place has done my mates 280whp glanza so they know there stuff. i just want my car mapped, ive always been stuck at this stage and im pissed off with never progressing so as soon as someone whos in the business says they will do it im going to jump at it

As long as your happy Stani :) I was offering concern based on the many hours of mapping I have shared with Ed over the years and as your car has been a long time in the making and it will be great to see it running to it's full potential :D
 
Right as per ive got no phonecall back from performance hq and ht developments dont seem to know how to answer a phone so doubt itll be mapped for JAE which is pish!

Fed up
 
I tried to get info from ed months ago and book around JAE but never got anywhere, still would but its not easy being 500 mile away! Think im going to forget about mapping at the moment as either the clutch or gearbox is chapping (goes away when clutch pressed in) and my turbo is whistling too. would the air shooting back to the turbo cause this damage as my dump valve never goes off because i never put enough pressure through to use it.....
 
when i first got ed to fit nistune to my 98 slx nats ecu i had to drive 270m down & 270 back four! times cos it was the first time he tried nistune with a nats ecu.

get ur car to an acceptable mechanical running condition first cos no point mapping a car if it's not working 100%

the bov/dump valve should be plumbed to the mani vacuum after the TB and should open as soon as there's vacuum like when the throttles closed. if it stays closed and causes boost surge, it won't be any good on ur turbo thrust bearing in the long-term nor mid-shift boost response
 
See i dont fancy travelling the 1000 mile round journey twice if theres something not quite right the first time round, and the dump valves plumbed in right as ive heard it a few times but i barely push 2psi. Should this open the valve everytime? Therefore it must be faulty as im lucky if i hear it once per time i drive the car....
 
on stock recirculation valves with the output plumbed into the turbo inlet, they should always be open whenever the line is in vacuum, basically whenever the throttles closed. so if you peak through the valve port while the engines idling, the valve should be open and when you reduce the manifold vacuum towards or beyond ambient pressure by opening the throttle, the valve should close.

dump or bov on the other hand i have no experience with. maybe they have spring preload set so that at idle with low vacuum, the valve stays shut to prevent the engine basically sucking in unfiltered dirty air during idle and would only open when there's a higher than normal manifold vacuum such as a closed throttle above idle rev so the boost that's built up in front of the closed throttle is released.
if this spring preload is adjustable, maybe urs was set too hard so the valve only begins to open from a higher pressure (rather than just above ambient) hence potentially causing the boost surge sound.
 
I was speaking to a mate and he reckons its gotta preload spring, wether its adjustable i dont know, also the valve does sit open on idle. However ill need to fix all these things first before i even think of a remap, but im thinking

Rebuild original gearbox
New 200mm clutch
Replace TD04 (if its that thats whistling)

Or put back to stock engine and begin a full on forged build over the next year
 
You should be able to adjust the dump valve i think stani, its just the combination of the vacuum surge as you shut the throttle and the pressure in the chargepipe that jerks it open i believe ( ie, not open @ idle).
And i ran with no dump or recirc for 7 months eh :)
 
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