newbie with cg13de real tuning.

K

Kremilin

Greetings from Finland!
First of all i apologize my bad english, but i will try my best.
I bought k11 -93 in january 2015. (this is my 4. micra so not so new thing to me.)
In summer -15 i start modding my engine to run with alcohol (re85 is what we get from pumps). This was easy, just megasquirt 1 with 2.2 board, few mods to trigger and i got ms'n's. Then the problems came. First my injectors was dropping once on time, i changed injectors to newer (i think -97 micra 1.0) and solved problem with injectors. Then was turn for fuel pump, no more pressure production from std fuel pump. So i bought aeroflow e85 pump. In these time i realize that i got very expensive micra for just e85 conversion, so i opened ebay, few clicks and itb's from gsxr600k8 was arriving to finland. :D I bought also some 750 yamaha's exhaust manifold.
After some laser cutting and alloywelding and fitting i got parts to my engine bay. I bought plx wideband lambda also for see my real afr.
Then i got bored to low performance and bought 1.0 pistons, head porting&polishing and 280 degrees 9.6mm lift cams. I get rest of parts back to carage at next week and i start building engine back to hitting roads.
But now i got few questions:
-Do i need stiffer valve springs for mild cams? ( top of nose is like /\ )
-what i should do next for getting better performance? (i have talked with local maching shops for billet flywheels) and i got allready 1.0l crank pulley. I have thinked about NOS, just for fun, but it doesnt make power all the time.
Is it save to raise revlimit to 9500 with just balanced pistons+rods? i am not going to do more yet for bottom, i got few spare bottoms for explode.
Do i need better clutch yet? i dont even know how much i should get hp?
ofc i got front pipe and cat back and decat. d.i.y all of them.

Other mods with micra isnt making more power but they are:
-Custom corsa d and b coilover with uniball topmounts, all new bushes and joints, facelift almera 252x20 front brakes and 14x7 alloys with brand new michelin 185/55r14 and recaro seat for driver.
 
I'm not great with N/A tuning but ill give it a go:

I'm guessing your e85 is 100+ octane which means you can go sky high on cr. You thought about head skimming/decking the block? Don't quote me but I reckon you could do 2mm+ you will have to address timing chain but thats easy before valve clearance issues.

A lightened flywheel, and bottom end even though you say you don't want to go there, is definitely worth it, also removing stuff you don't want/need off the engine, Air Con, Power steering etc

You don't need stiffer valve springs tbh but there is a double valve spring mod (think using k12 valve springs??) on here somewhere which you may want to look into

I vote no to NOS personally and dont know about clutch/rev limit questions.

Also I'm going to say it, although you may not want to go that route or it's not possible in Finland, but Forced Induction? Turbo/Supercharger is a relatively cheap way to get good power gains!!

PS your English is better than some of the English people's on here!!!!
 
Since first day of october 2015 we can change motors like turbo or something till my97 cars or something, so that isn't problem.
I dont like turbo lag at tiny fwd cars, i like that when lag stays from start to redline.:D CR should be like 11.7 or what i get with 1.0 pistons.
I will buy that billet flywheel in future, just cant yet say when.
Nissan have allready deleted all useless things from my micra at factory, no PS/ABS/Aircon
WP_001465.jpg i uploaded one picture from last summer to show that im serious with this project, and have done something allready.

That enginebay is raw at this moment, but in the end, it isnt any show car.
Also micra have start diet, all useless crap will goes to recycle bin. Like that huge liquid tank for headlight swipers..
 
Kremilin said:
Also micra have start diet, all useless crap will goes to recycle bin. Like that huge liquid tank for headlight swipers..
Click to expand...

I presumed it was a road/daily so you wouldn't want to strip it but yeah, weight removal is the way forward too!!

I know what you mean by the huge tank....
washer tank.jpg
 
Really?! I've not used it yet

In fairness it was something like £4 on eBay, but I still have the Nissan one in the garage so may see if it fits in
 
Hello!
I'm now assembling parts to back. I got questionmark still on valve springs? Any help?! :) 280/9.6mm cams, do i need stiffer valve springs?

IF i need, any budget solutions with those? double springs etc.
 
I am now building engine back to one pile, or how to say right. I uploaded one picture of it also in this post. If anybody cares?.
Is here any simply tool like screwdriver/etc for playing with shims, so i dont need to take cams out and back full time?
 

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need fast help, what is wrong with my valve shims?! i measured my valve clearance and that was like 2.45mm, i bought 2.25 shims (cam-maker told that .20mm is good clearance with those cams). I installed new shims under the valve buckets and i dont have clearance nomore, what is wrong now? Do i need grind edges from shims or why they dont sit now like they should?
 
grinded (9.6mm lifts) I measured clearance with only top shims (didnt have bought yet new ones.) Then i installed new shims to under of the buckets. Now i dont have clearances.. :(

Can those new shims be so sharp edged so they dont go bottom of buckets?
 
Kremilin said:
grinded (9.6mm lifts) I measured clearance with only top shims (didnt have bought yet new ones.) Then i installed new shims to under of the buckets. Now i dont have clearances.. :(

Can those new shims be so sharp edged so they dont go bottom of buckets?
Click to expand...
yes you have to shamfer around the edge of the undershims mate (45deg bevel)
 
Big thank to whole MSC. And especially for Frank for good tips and helps!
Now it is alive. Tomorrow i will go some test drive.
I have now only 'running in'? my camshafts (20min 2krpm). Sounds are awsome, im sorry, they dont get enought value in my video.
I dont remember how much is rpm limiter now, but i think some 7k, anyways hitting to limiter instantly when pressing pedal. Loving that.

 
0-100km/h
bad start, -2celcius and studded m+s tires.
Still stock catback and mufflers, and i havent tuned micra at dyno yet.
7.8 and lot of wheelspins. Not exactly happy yet..

Any ideas with timing advances? got 32 from 4krpm map 100kpa (fully open throttle) got e85 so need 3-5 more than gaso with same mods.
 
That will be just advice to go sr16ve if this bottom explodes.. Have readed that allready, but that e85 is funny thing because that doesnt missfire/knock with these compression rates.. Or if it knocks it is some 10degrees out of best power.. :)

26 was like wet wood at fireplaces

EDIT: video with bad start and -2celcius and studded m+s
 
Last edited:
Thursday morning i was on weightscale with micra, 788kg total without backseats and etc.
FL 255kg FR 251kg RL 146kg and RR 136kg
Not so happy with total weight. Tought it would be ~750kg, and tank wasnt even half.
 
-28celsius at finland and micra is still running. Now just waiting if my tuner would call to me and say that he's dyno is again working. Some spring service. Waiting summer and traction! I have driven some 2000km with new setup.
 
Does any manufactor make optical trigger discs for micra, like 24-2 so i could get wasted spark? Or is here any dizzy hat wich would bolt on the micra dizzy, and has external coil option?
I have also thinked if i make custom dizzy hat so i could get external coil, but sealing that would be hard..
 
I welded a trigger wheel from trigger-wheels.com onto my crank pulley, then used the coil packs from later engine and ran wasted spark that way, and just blanked of the dizzy hole


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hello! I sold this car and bought it again. :D
Now Micra has 15thousand kilometres (approx 9k miles) run after engine rebuild, MUCH throttle pedal, and went for 3 hour rototest dyno.
28-30 degree ignition advice was best for my engine, i got 64,5kw @ wheels, i can upload dynosheet in near future.
 

dynosheet, just wondering what stops my power coming at 6500, doing that hill climb up and down. micra will rev to 9k without asking, but power curve start lowering at 6.5k rpm.
ITB:s got 200mm runner lenght from ca to butterfly, and exhaust is 2" from start to end and 4-1 header.
fuel is fine, but would it be an ignition problem or valve spring hang?
 
any part numbers for fitting? i do not understand anything about spring rates and free dimensions. If some1 know direct or almost direct fit, would be awesome to know.
 
you will have to take measurements tbh, and its the harmonics you have to address eh, hence the need for progressively wound outers, and inner springs too
if you have pointy cams then it may be the acelleration of the valves opening and closing (agressiveness of the flanks) and not the duration or lift

 
This is sad but true;
Last saturday i was changing my valve springs. First spring was like a hell to put back. ( i didnt take hat off, so i was using air compressor and sparkplug adapter.) I was R&Ding some tool how to get press race spring so low and so long that my friend get valve locks back to place. About 60x20x4mm metal rod with few drilled holes (8mm), i was connecting that bar to camsprocket holes, then good 15mm spanner with some angle.
Anyways, i got succesfully installed first 15 pcs, then last buckle out and seeing something odd at retainer. Didnt get it yet, and starting pressing retainer down, it was at two pieces, cracked from middle..
I have walked this week, and waiting nissan oe suplier to get my retainer.. Nissan estimated friday to get my retainer.. I was very lucky that didnt drop at driving..
I also empty my catalyst converter, so got now only blank covers. Cat covers needed for MOT..
 
micra running again! \o/
I replaced spark plugs also in this service. Could be just think but i think micra is running much smoother now.. Tomorrow i will take some accelerations and will see if micra is quicker now.. Old cracked retainer was replaced by new oem retainer..
 
Okey, i upload now dynosheet if somebody even cares =)


next thing is getting few more horsepowers. This thing we call in finland "hungry goes bigger when you eat".

So i need advice with exhaust manifold, how is janspeed manifold rpm tuned? primary lenghts and inner diameter is what i like to get know. Also i will now get velocity stacks for itbs. Maybe some head skimming? =)
i think im gonna tune intake for 8000rpm and if i would get also exhaust tuned for 8k i will get longer power band.
I think there isnt much left free horse powers what i can get easily.

Does anybody know how much i can get off from head or block with cg10de pistons?
Is there any good way to measure clearance from piston-valve?
 
depending on your chain setting, the closest piston-to-valve gap is when the inlet valve chases the piston down the bore soon after tdc on overlap, so you just need to push the bucket down with a screwdriver to check the clearance
 
My trusted MoT engineer granted today permission to install SR16VE, so i will now try to sell my engine. Hoping best.
Second thing, yesterday i bought sparco proadv bucket seat and 6point belts.
If i cant get my engine sold i have to keep getting more power and more rpms from this engine.

edit:
Sparco installed

 
Last edited:
Hello again!
Todays question is ;
What valves fit for micra (larger ofc :) )? Have anyone bigger? if so, what diameter is max for micras head?
 
:lol: i readed that 15.7 is good time with micra @ 1/4mile, bull**** i would say. I got 16,5s react time 2,9 (dumped? in launch)
First time at slip with micra, old tires and way much too long 1.3PFL gearbox. (over 20c temp and intake temps at high because of idling.)
Now i think im going for trumpets and custom ex-mani and 1.0 FL(-99) gearbox. Maybe valves and new cams + skim.. let see..
 
Kremilin said:
3mm less from head to head? i think that aint good ?
Click to expand...
still better than the very restrictive cg valves, the airflow from those runs out at about 7mm lift
if you measure the head ports and valve throats you will see that the bottlenecks are the inlet ports and exhaust throats
 
yeah, stock 22,5mm isnt enought for over 100hp/L without restrict. I have research that kia rio have 24,9mm dish, 95,5mm overall lenght and 5,5mm guide diameter. Now im gonna slash/cut one head for research, can i fit 25mm valve seats and how much i can spread those ports, so are this mod do worth of it.. All pioneers of micra tuning can help if you have been doing some r&d for valves.
like;
-How much there is wasted material in ports/throats which can be deleted?
-Any near water or oil channels what i must watch out?

ps.
http://www.mercateo.com/p/C1028-023...ller_24_9mm_fuer_KIA.html?ViewName=live~s.100
sorry for deutsch
 

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