New to micra, building rally car.

Vulture20

Vulture20

Hi folks

As the title says, I'm new to micras and trying to build a rally car (based on the junior 1000 spec). The car is a 1.0 K11 registered in 2000, but has a facelift but no coil pack engine.

I'm looking at the moment for advice in 2 areas.

1) Airbags: If I disconnect the airbag ecu on the transmission tunnel, will the rest of the car work? I'm hoping to do that, disable the warning lamp, and remove the sterring wheel airbag and seatbelt pre-tensioners. Will his work?

2) Immobiliser - there is a NATS sticker in the window. Is there a simple way of removing the immobiliser/transponder stuff? Ideally I want a keyless switch and button to start the car.

Any experience, anyone?

Cheers
Jools
 
Just remove the stock steering wheel and replace with an aftermarket eBay jobbie with the right boss kit :laugh:. But yeah, if you just remove the fuse and the warning lamp, the car will be fine. I think there's also a little box behind the dashboard (under the ashtray if you remove the centre console) which is to do with the airbag as well, which I think you can remove as well - but don't quote me on that. But it's what we guys do when fitting aftermarket steering wheels (I did the same when I fitted a Momo wheel - which, incidentally, is up for sale :wasntme:)
 
yeah what dan said it should be fine (Y) the nats is a pain it can be removed but not sure of an easy way lol. ed and frank is the guys to ask about nats. i accidently got a nats loom and ecu :doh: so i binned it off as i couldn't find a non nats loom. i went with bike carbs instead.
 
Daniel said:
Just remove the stock steering wheel and replace with an aftermarket eBay jobbie with the right boss kit :laugh:. But yeah, if you just remove the fuse and the warning lamp, the car will be fine. I think there's also a little box behind the dashboard (under the ashtray if you remove the centre console) which is to do with the airbag as well, which I think you can remove as well - but don't quote me on that. But it's what we guys do when fitting aftermarket steering wheels (I did the same when I fitted a Momo wheel - which, incidentally, is up for sale :wasntme:)
Click to expand...

Hi Daniel

Thanks for the info. I've had a quick look at your 'parts for sale' list but am confused! Is the pipercross still available as well as the momo? What model is the momo?

Cheers
Jools
 
you might be best to fit a pre-nats loom and ecu jools (the pinouts are different) or else get a "doctored ecu" from ed (fusion) on here
 
frank said:
you might be best to fit a pre-nats loom and ecu jools (the pinouts are different) or else get a "doctored ecu" from ed (fusion) on here
Click to expand...

Ah - I don't really fancy changing all the bits. Sounds like Ed could be the answer....

Thanks for that
Jools
 
Why do you need to get rid of nats? Some people have a starter button and strap the key near the transponder. Good luck with the build, what spec are you building?
 
mattjo said:
Why do you need to get rid of nats? Some people have a starter button and strap the key near the transponder. Good luck with the build, what spec are you building?
Click to expand...

Yes, that may be the easiest way. I just like making things neat! All the airbag kit is out now. Stopping the warning lamp coming on was fun, as it turns out we have a lovely mogrel of a car. Pre-coilpack engine, facelift body, and 2000+ wiring loom! Finally traced the correct wire, and shorting it to earth did the trick.

The car is going to roughly Junior 1000 spec. This means fully stripped interior, full safety gear, full suspension swap, but engine & gearbox internals as standard. Should be fun. We don't need to keep to the spec (my son is 19) but it will make it easier to sell if we get tired of it!
 
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Hmm. No luck with pictures yet....
 
Vulture20 said:
.The car is going to roughly Junior 1000 spec. This means fully stripped interior, full safety gear, full suspension swap, but engine & gearbox internals as standard. Should be fun. We don't need to keep to the spec (my son is 19) but it will make it easier to sell if we get tired of it!
Click to expand...

cool, this is mine, http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/46537-K11-rally built to the spec you are looking at, if you need any hints/ pics on where things go etc give us a shout!
Look forward to some pics.
 
mattjo said:
cool, this is mine, http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/46537-K11-rally built to the spec you are looking at, if you need any hints/ pics on where things go etc give us a shout!
Look forward to some pics.
Click to expand...

Looking lovely - remarkably like mine! The SD cage is going in this week, assuming I can get the sodding thing started.

Here's one for you all - car was running fine. We replaced the steering wheel and put a pipercross air filter on. Now it won't start. The first diagnosis was immobiliser transducer ring, so a new ECU without NATS was obtained from Ed. Still no joy, although it sounded more like it was trying to start. Eventually I gave in and called the AA. Persuaded him that the engine was still standard, and he eventually reckoned it was the engine temperature sensor. He disconnected it, and with a booster pack got it started after cranking for ages - loads of smoke at first then ran fine. He started it again a few mins later no problem. He left, I tried to start her 30 mins later - no joy.

So, do I trust him, or are there any other hints? Seems a huge co-incidence that a sensor fails when we do all this work.....

Help please!!

Cheers
Jools

(pics to come soon)
 
Ok, let's try some pics.

As bought:
2011-05-28125239.jpg


The inside almost stripped:
2011-09-02155615.jpg


2011-09-02155547.jpg


The new suspension. Pure automotive porn:
2011-09-02170609.jpg


More to come as the build progresses!

Cheers
Jools
 
Hey look, there's my old steering wheel :grinning:. Want to see that and the other bits fitted :wasntme:
 
Daniel said:
Hey look, there's my old steering wheel :grinning:. Want to see that and the other bits fitted :wasntme:
Click to expand...

Strut brace fitted, pipercross fitted, unfitted, fitted, unfitted.......... etc while trying to diagnose starting problem. I've got her started now, but she's running like a pig. Hopefully she'll start again after I've had a coffee!!
 
Vulture20 said:
Ok, let's try some pics.

As bought:
The new suspension. Pure automotive porn:
2011-09-02170609.jpg


More to come as the build progresses!

Cheers
Jools
Click to expand...

Nice! are they the ones from rallyschool?, they are what are on mine, have had avo in the past and these are far superior in handling and quality imo!
 
Vulture20 said:
Strut brace fitted, pipercross fitted, unfitted, fitted, unfitted.......... etc while trying to diagnose starting problem. I've got her started now, but she's running like a pig. Hopefully she'll start again after I've had a coffee!!
Click to expand...

A few miles later she's good as gold. Now to get the cage fitted! :p
 
mattjo said:
Nice! are they the ones from rallyschool?, they are what are on mine, have had avo in the past and these are far superior in handling and quality imo!
Click to expand...

Yup. John there has been incredibly helpful, and most importantly CHEAP! I've heard great things about these, so can't wait.
 
Vulture20 said:
A few miles later she's good as gold. Now to get the cage fitted! :p
Click to expand...
gooood (Y)
on the cage i did a couple of years ago, i had to fabricate pods from 3mm steel and a specified size and weld them into the floor first :eek: for the feet to bolt onto jools
 
frank said:
gooood (Y)
on the cage i did a couple of years ago, i had to fabricate pods from 3mm steel and a specified size and weld them into the floor first :eek: for the feet to bolt onto jools
Click to expand...

Yup - the guy doing it has built many many competition cars to MSA/FIA spec, so I know it'll be good.

Cheers
Jools
 
hi can someone please tell me where i can buy these from and what cost they are cheers only want the front ones if that helps:laugh:
 
ady40 said:
hi can someone please tell me where i can buy these from and what cost they are cheers only want the front ones if that helps:laugh:
Click to expand...

You mean the suspension? That is sold as a complete set, I don't think that putting just front ones on would be very sensible (or safe). Full set around £700 iirc.

Cheers
Jools
 
Vulture20 said:
An underbonnet pic would be handy -I need to wire the cutout next!

Cheers
Jools
Click to expand...

sorry just read this will get pic later in week.

frank said:
gooood (Y)
on the cage i did a couple of years ago, i had to fabricate pods from 3mm steel and a specified size and weld them into the floor first :eek: for the feet to bolt onto jools
Click to expand...

Was that an OMP cage? If you have a safety devices you shouldnt have to do that, the omp's had to have box section because there were meant for K10's, apparently! :doh:
 

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