Nats ---------------

[Helloween]

Want to ask another question here, the NATS system, whats it all about in the micras, i heard that there troublesome is it true, if someone could shed a light to me for what it is as its all new to me as i also have a preface lift without it and its all good..

Appreciate for any answers.

J

 

[frank]

there are 4 pages of nats threads ffs J (and thats only from may)

 

[Helloween]

Thanks frank, Im just a lazy B-----D ill do a search for it..

Cheers.. :laugh:


J

 

[getawaycar]

While we are on the subject!

I've had a run of NATS problems lately! I had an early NATS 1 (no chip in key) immobiliser that wouldn't switch off. This was caused by a faulty IMMU (small black box)
I threw the IMMU away and replaced the ECU with a non NATS one from a spares car. Fixed.

The other 2 were later cars with the red chip in the key. 1st one would not start, had flashing EML and had the code 'Chain of IMMU' stored in the immobiliser. Tried fitting earlier non NATS ecu, didn't work. Tried swapping ECU and Immobiliser receiver from another car but the wiring was different at the receiver (Donor was an N reg auto, different from the manual T reg I wanted to fit it to.) Had to put my hand in my pocket and buy one of Eds non NATS ecus (worked perfectly, very reasonable £150! See Ed for details)
The final one is a stolen recovered one, the thief has smashed the immobiliser receiver into 100s of bits, just waiting for another 'Eds non NATS specials' to see if I can get it going!

From people I have spoken to there are ways of adapting the early non NATS ecu to run a NATS immobiliser car by swapping looms or buying expensive kit but the easiest way is to buy one of Eds ecus. The time and work involved in working round it yourself seems worth £150 to me!

 

[Helloween]

What i would like to know is, if i get the non nats ecu from ED, and plug it in it would work, but what about the controller for the doors e.t.c would they still work or would be made redundant, i.e. useless (not bothered i could fit an aftermarket centrol locking unit) and also the transponder on the barrel and key with chip will that also be gone? basically would the car be like an early K11 with not transponders e.t.c. which is the way i would rather have as i want a reliable car and not something stupid happening to me when im miles away from home when the car decides to F--K me up... LOL


J

 

[getawaycar]

I think they would still work as the immobiliser works from the ECU but the central locking doesn't.
As for more reliable, its one less thing to go wrong!:laughY)

 

[Helloween]

I think they would still work as the immobiliser works from the ECU but the central locking doesn't.
As for more reliable, its one less thing to go wrong!:laughY)

Hi getaway car, thanks for your reply, by any chance is there a way that we could disble the immobaliser and keep it plain and simple again another less thing to go wrong e.t.c.

cheers

J

 

[getawaycar]

Yes, by changing the ECU!
On older cars the immobiliser is a seperate box and you can take it out but later cars (with red or blue chip in key) the immobiliser chip is in the ECU its self. Its made so you can't take it out.
When you put your key, in the ECU sends a signal thru the immobiliser ring to the chip in the key. Like asking it a sum. When the signal from the key gets back to the ECU if its right the chip tells the rest of the ECU it can start and run the car. If its wrong the car won't start. When cars develop the NATS starting problem the chip in the ECU breaks down and asks the wrong question or can't interpret the answer and thinks you are trying to nick it.
I've yet to find the exact cause when this happens. When I worked with Vauxhall, their immobilisers used a similar set up. When the chip broke down it started to forget the sum to ask the key. You could reprogram the ECU and match (Synchronise) it with the key. This solved the problem. That doesn't seem to work with Nissan!

Ed uses the earlier ECU without the immobiliser chip and reprogrammes/rewires the ECU (he won't tell me exactly or I'll stop buying them!). The box does exactly the same as the existing ECU without the immobiliser.
Its the only thing I've found that works 100% of the time.

I have heard of people swapping the ECU and wiring loom from earlier cars but that would take up a lot of time. I've seen people re-write the ECU and bypass the immobiliser but this involves buying software and equipping your computer to communicate with your car, on top of that you need the know-how! Out of the 30 or so K11s we have sold in the past year we have only had to buy 2 ECUs from Ed (one of them was for Mrs. Getaways car!) so it would be hard to justify the time and money to do that.

 

[Helloween]

Hi Getaway car, thanks for the info!! what i want to ask also once ED`s ecu is installed, could i get a keycut as a normal key without the chip inside and start the car? or would i need to still use the current (red chip key)?


Cheers again, sorry for the questions.. just wanna clear my understanding of all this!!


J

 

[getawaycar]

You could use your existing key, the red chip wouldn't be doing anything.

If you needed to have more keys cut you would not have to have chipped keys done, you could use any key cut to your locks profile.

We had a chipped key made up by Timpsons, they can copy the code to one of their chipped keys but it costs £75!
If the car had one of Eds ECUs we could have had a key cut without a chip for about £5!