my facelift k11 turbo build thread

[CMF_k11_facelift]

Hello, this is my first blog as such, on here.

It's a 1 litre facelift. I focused on aesthetics the first year I owned it, lowered on coilovers and put it on 13x7 re-drilled Ford Capri Brooklands.

I managed to get the 0-60mph in about 10seconds from the 1.0 with cg13 cams and a ga16 airbox, but daily driving was still sluggish, hence why I'm now turbocharging it.

Now sporting some widened steelies:

And raised it a fair bit for a more subtle look:

The turbo is a Garret T2 from a Fiesta RS. And the manifold's built by Frank. I've been putting it together and mocking it up on a spare cg13 which will replace the 1.0 when I get time or get bored. I've got oil lines and sump almost done, throttle body and MAF are in the making.

The plan is, to be honest, very similar to franks ghetto build. For me it's a learning experience working with turbos on a budget. I also rate these 1.0 litres, so it would be fun to see what they can do. I won't be chasing figures, just experimenting and having fun too.

The head was completely stripped and cleaned. Widened and polished the ports myself, matched the inlet manifold and the gasket. Have also added additional valve spring washers to increase the valve spring rates, so I should be good for 8000rpm+ if I ever needed to go that high.

Before:

after:

I'm unsure whether to raise or lower the compression ratio on it though. These turbos are usually good for upto 1bar of pressure. Any more than that and they're prone to splitting seals quite early. I'll probably work it up to 10psi in time. However I'm unsure if lowering the c/r to the typical 8.5:1 will see the best increase in power and torque due to the low boost. I could raise it to 10.5:1 to hopefully see some good gains in torque, but will the stock 9.5:1 be the best overall?? I'm having some trouble working out dynamic c/r on boosted engines.

I'll be using a CGA3 top feed fuel rail with 292cc SR20 injectors. Plan's to remove the washers inside the stock FPR to make it flow more and add a 8:1 FMU. I'll need an adjustable FPR to set the fuel pressure while off boost, and I can also tweak the airflow over the MAF or add a 5th injector if I need more adjustment on boost.

Just had Frank build the majority of the exhaust system. It's s/s 57mm bore, side exit. I just need a silencer and a tip. Will probably keep the stock peashooter-backbox on too for some foolery.

 

[CMF_frank2]

heh, looks familiar matt
my side exit system is nearly finished too

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

not surprised mate, you've done most of it lol. Going to be all me from now on, I hope.

What's your thoughts on the c/r for this t2 with no intercooler, either higher boost 8.5:1, lower boost 10.5:1, or somewhere in the middle?

 

[CMF_schoona]

I love it, looks awesome and nice wheel choice!

Which coilovers did you get and how do you find them?

Wish frank was here to help with my manifold lol

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

Thanks schoona.

I used a FK Automotive street kit(cheap ebay ones) made for a Corsa B that's been adjusted to suit the Micra. It's only the front really, the rears are just shorter dampers, and you use cut springs as the corsa ones dont fit.

They work ok overall, smooth ride on average roads, doesn't bounce like stock and there's little body roll in the corners. But bumpy roads however, become very bumpy!

Aye, franks about 80mins away from me. I would rather do things myself tbh but I just don't have the time, experience, know-how or patience, and compared to you he's just around the corner eh lol. It only took a couple hours or so to get that downpipe made up. I've been working on this build for nearly a year lol.

 

[CMF_bmdubu m3]

>Wish frank was here to help with my manifold lol[/quote]

I think we should all chip in and buy him (Frank) a plane ticket to get over here and have him crank out as many parts as he can fabricate for us lol

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

773 rally cams.

1.0 - 1.3 - 773:

773 - 1.0:

spec:
1.0- 196° 5.59mm
1.3- 222° 7.46mm
773- 264° 9.09/9.04mm

Now I just need some 1.6mm(+/-) under bucket shims. I've got a spare set, plan's to grind them down but that's looking to be a p.i.t.a. Just researching other methods such as weldfilling, and cutting carbon-steel sheets(baking-trays ) which should be a closer thickness to start with.

 

[CMF_SSUK]

I'm assuming the need for 1.6mm underbucket shims is because the OEM shims are insufficient?

Where did you get those from incidentally? They look different to '773' profile cams and also don't appear to have the right markings stamped into the side of the cam by the cam drive.

'773' cam below.....

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

SSUK WROTE:

"Why do you need 1.6mm under bucket shims?

Need an additional 1.6mm ontop of the stock 2.5mm shims. I don't fancy paying for custom shims, so I was thinking of grinding a second set of shims to be placed under the buckets.

However, the shim I was measuring them on was only 2.3mm and I was just eyeballing the 1.6mm. With the more common 2.5mm shims in and slightly more accurately measured, I'm actually looking for an additional 1mm, give or take as I've still yet to lap the valves in or take into account the final clearances.

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

Ah ok, I should have refreshed, you've edited the post.
These are the cams off ebay, I think you posted a link to them on msc too. "Group A Rally cams" I had assumed they were the 773's, hmm, certainly look different. Same 9mm lift though.
I'll have to google the I.D. markings.

Thanks for picking up on that SSUK

 

[CMF_frank2]

you would have a mission to grind some stock ones down to 1mm matt ! grinding 30" thou off for my piper ones was hard enough.
you might be best to get the seats cut instead eh ?
pretty wild looking cam btw

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

yeah I definately won't be grinding them to 1mm frank. How about 1mm thick carbon-steel squares placed under the buckets?

 

[CMF_SSUK]

Ah I remember now. There were no closeup shots of the cams, so it was a 'best guess' at the time. As Frank says, they look wilder than the '773' 264s.

It would be interesting to see what the profiles on those cams turn out to be. One has to be careful not to go too wild with the stock valvetrain. On a CG10DE I would expect those to result in some pretty high rpms.

I am also not a fan of doubling up on shims, call me a pansy but I wouldn't want a shim to get thrown. The attached pic is worst case but it can happen...

 

[CMF_RTK]

Wow! Head is needed now! Not double shimming now!

 

[CMF_Mickb]

Are you referring to shimming under and on top of the bucket? Or both on top?
Edit - didn't really look at the pic, ouch! I assume clearances might have been a bit out, plus a weak sidewall.

 

[CMF_turbo march-rolling shell]

id say the top shim slipped out and on the downstroke smashed the sidewall

 

[CMF_frank2]

uk_facelift WROTE:

"yeah I definately won't be grinding them to 1mm frank. How about 1mm thick carbon-steel squares placed under the buckets?

its only a small contact point underneath and would need to be good steel eh matt, here,s one thats been in mine that,s worn a shiny spot from the valvestem.
i,ve had a shim spit and wear a small chunk off a lobe corner, so mine are both underneath, and the small contact point makes it easier to gap the clearances, coz you only have to fettle a bit from the centre to achieve the 1/4 mm gap

 

[CMF_SSUK]

That photo was pretty much worst case. Solid lifters and tophat valve shims are much safer, solid lifters with ground stems are even more so. Sorry if I freaked you out

If you're going to turbo that engine, I would say CG13DE cams would be the limit to start with and see where you go. I would expect that cam to be pretty revvy in the CG10, if that's what you are currently working on.

The CG valvetrain limitations rarely show their heads though, as most people don't push the engines to an extent for things to become a problem. IIRC James T, (Nis), did have some valve bouce issues in his CGA3DE turbo but given the piston dish and PTV clearances it never translated into a failure. However you could see from the seats on stripdown that valve bouce had been occurring.

That photo was actually from a guy running an N/A engine beyond 8000rpm on an unknown cam profile. The engine was built up to a very high spec but it still failed. Later the valve springs were upgraded and he switched over to the later CR series solid buckets with ground stems and never had an issue, (plenty of weight to be saved by using a CR bucket and HR spring retainers). It was ok until he revised things further and started to push past 9000rpm, when he found the stock oil pump couldn't supply enough oil pressure and he fried the main bearings O

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

frank2 WROTE:

"
its only a small contact point underneath and would need to be good steel eh matt, here,s one thats been in mine that,s worn a shiny spot from the valvestem.

i,ve had a shim spit and wear a small chunk off a lobe corner, so mine are both underneath, and the small contact point makes it easier to gap the clearances, coz you only have to fettle a bit from the centre to achieve the 1/4 mm gap

ah good point, I don't think I'm going to fab anything better suited, or even near the quality of the stock shims.

SSUK WROTE:
If you're going to turbo that engine, I would say CG13DE cams would be the limit to start with and see where you go. I would expect that cam to be pretty revvy in the CG10, if that's what you are currently working on.

The plan is to put this modified head onto the CG10 and turbocharge it, just to see what it can take. And hopefully set a decent 1/4mile time
I can always adjust the cam timings or even cams if it's too wild for the road. Then when I either get bored or the engines given-up, I'll put the CG13 block in and adjust for practicality & reliability. I'm all up for trying different things, so I thought higher-lift cams that should hold there resale value, would be a worthwhile expirement.

I don't think I'll be pushing the limit of the valvetrain, but could do with some 'room for error', obviously dont want that^ to happen. Double underbucket shims it looks like it's going to be, I think.

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

.

 

[CMF_frank2]

CR buckets are 1/2 a mm thicker matt (so you would only need a 1/2 a mm seatcut eh) and their valves are 2mm longer
but you wont be able to fit tophats to the CG valves, there,s not enough stem protruding

 

[CMF_Mickb]

Frank - sent you an email bud.

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

Nissan4u.com's saying the part-number for the CR buckets are the same for the CG CGA and QG buckets too, but there's a variety of them for the CR and QG engines, I guess that's the thickness, and they're from 3.0-3.7[mm]
So there's a tiny posibility some CR/HR/QG buckets could be 0.7mm thicker than CG ones. Don't think I'm going to be that lucky though.

 

[CMF_frank2]

a CG bucket and shim is 220" thou tho matt (5.5mm ?) and the late CGA/CR buckets are 2mm less iirc (to account for the 2mm longer valvestem)
so a shimless bucket + 1 undershim will close your gaps eh
(rodger mick )

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

yeah frank, my wording's bad.
5.5mm would sound about right as that would make the CR/HR/QG buckets range from 3mm upto 3.7mm thick like nissan4u says, so with a thick CR bucket(ie 3.6mm) and a thick CG shim(ie 2.7) underneath, it would be about right

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

Fitted a AFR gauge. I'll find a subtle place in the dash at some point when I've found a nice boost guage to match.

It's plugged into pin 105 in the ecu. Results showing it runs lean at cruise until about 60mph then it goes off the scale lean at anything above it. Or if the throttles 3/4 open or more its off the scale lean.
(edit: pin 105 appears to run <0.2v when at idle and cruise, then jumps to 13v> at WOT or lean perhaps. The voltmeter says the black lambda signal wire works, but the gauge doesn't appear to agree.)

Fitted a set of the GA injectors, they appear to be running fine, no issues at all, pulls a tad better at lower rpm but nothing to shout about.

They run borderline lean/stoich at cruise only a whisker higher than the CGs on the gauge, and just like the CG injectors anything over 60mph or more than half throttle it goes of the scale lean again. Plugged the laptop, got readings of 0.8v(rich) at cruise, and 0.2v(lean) at anything more than half throttle, need that 0.8v at WOT too ideally. Unplugged the coolant temp sensor, but that just made it over fuel all the time, even at idle and on overrun and generally felt lumpy. Pulled better around 3000rpm but not enough to warrant the excessive fuelling, so that's been plugged back in.

New spark plugs

Super4s. Over gapped them and car's behaving well.

The GA injectors and Super 4s are definitely doing something. It does hesitate a bit when throttle's been closed a while, like at traffic lights. But it's pulling better at low rpm and acceleration in 3rd is a tad better which makes overtaking a little easier, and just feels happier at higher rpm. There's still loads of room for improvement though

Got some shimless CR buckets this week. They average roughly 0.5mm thicker than the CG's. And after shuffling shims about gave clearances of 0.3mm on these 9mm lift cams. Hoping I could remove 0.1-0.2mm from lapping the valves in, should allow more options regarding shims too, as I'm at the thick end of what I have available.
CG

CR

Decided to fit the inlet cam straight onto the 1.0 for a bit of fun.

It pulls rather well across the rev range, wants to go higher than 7800rpm.

I think I may go back to CG injectors now though, but add a 5th injector for fuel enrichment on WOT. Would be good the get that up and running before adding the turbo too.

Fitted a black snooker ball gearknob and extension, not exactly a performance improvement, but fun.

And got plans for couple of exhaust silencers and the charge pipe sorted too, nearly there lol.

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

Result from the inlet cam's not that great low down at the minute, mid is better and top end is pretty good when it gets there, alot easier to hit the limiter now as it just keeps pulling, I had removed limiter but it feels like it's come back. I guess some more compression would help the low-mid range, hopefully the turbo should be able to sort that out. Or I could alter the timing to close the inlet valves earlier too, but I'll keep it as it is, for now. This lopey idle sounds dirrty 8D

Plugged a voltmeter to the lambda signal wire as this afr gauge doesn't want to work correctly. Getting readings of 0.2v at low rpm at cruise or idle, and 1v+ at WOT or 40mph+. Which has confused me even more. Going to have to recheck that.

***Edit: bad grounding is what caused the miss-readings. This cg10 with ga injectors and a 9mm inlet cam with a long duration is showing about 0.5-0.7v(stoich) at cruise and idle, and 0.8-0.9v(rich) at wot, in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear anyway, 4th and 5th gear is same as at cruise***

Turned an old 12-16psi actuator into a 5-8psi one today.

However I think the heat from my ****e welds has punctured the diaphragm as air leaks now, bugger. Should have fitted an external spring.

Got a couple of cherrybomb style silencers, painted them silver. Currently working on a baffled exhaust tip, as I expect it to be loud.

Putting together the majority of the charge pipe too. Short and simple

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

This oil feed line has turned into a bit of a pi$s take. None of the expensive aluminium aero hose connectors want to connect to the braided steel n teflon hose. I've tried everything to get them to work/seal but the hose just pulls right off. It's the correct size too apparently :S

I'm now looking at other options. A front brake hose shares the same female fitting as the head oil gallery, so a simple joiner would fit, but the banjo will want adjusting from m8 to m10 to connect to the turbo.
Another option is to use a regular rubber fuel hose, which appears to be ok, but is this going to be alright long term? If not, my last resort is to import a custom made hose.

 

[CMF_frank2]

i should have a spare kart brakepipe matt you need metal braided really, to combat the heat eh

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

frank2 WROTE:

"i should have a spare kart brakepipe matt you need metal braided really, to combat the heat eh

Ah that would be great if you have, thanks, do you think this kart brake pipe will be a straight/straighter fit then?

 

[CMF_frank2]

k11_facelift WROTE:

Ah that would be great if you have, thanks, do you think this kart brake pipe will be a straight/straighter fit then?

same as mine mate, 1/8 bsp male, with a 10mm banjo

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

Frank's a star, and supplied me with a ready made 1/8bsp to 10mm banjo pipe for the oil feed. Thank you mate

Unfortunetly I need one one-size bigger, bugger.

That's the last time I use the internet instead of going outside with a ruler! I got my hope up of fitting it this week too. The micra brake hose banjo is actually m10, not m8 as I was lead to believe on some shops website.
So, I could go to the effort of filing this 10mm banjo out about 2mm to fit the bolt which sounds a bit risky, or... something else, I don't know, a new turbo ffs

Good news though, the boost gauge arrived finally, a regular black faced one and only 1 bar, so slightly better for viewing low boost accurately.

Picked up some 50mm pipes along with a bosch recirc valve, and a map sensor for experimenting too.

The shop bought items at 4x the price.

Charge pipe, just needs trimming to length.

Also managed to get a plastic cam cover, which should reduce heat being transfered to the boost pipe running over the top of it.

Fuel rail is sort of complete, QG 211cc/m injectors, additional O-rings for a secure fit into the copper pipe, which is a tight fit in the rubbers too. I could really do with finding a propper coilpack manifold though, but the price is silly compared to the CG's. I'll see how the GA injectors I've got in now are first, they should be good for upto 5psi.

Here's that rather crazy idle that's all over the place with that 9mm inlet cam and larger injectors, with a quick stamp on the throttle.
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And the exhaust. Rich eh.
<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value=""><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="360"></object>

Getting used to this afr gauge now, you can tell when it's in closed loop and you get fuel enrichment at wot, which seems ever so slightly higher than coldstart(13:1), measuring what it's doing while bouncing is a little more difficult.
Fitted a switch on ecu pin #32 (speed sensor). With the wire disconnected from the ecu I'm getting fuel enrichment in all gears now. Nothing else appears to have changed, I think the ecu only uses this in relation to the rpm to work out gears, and keeps it in closed loop in 4th n 5th no matter what the tps reads. Or whatever, it's working great anyway.

I've reset the ignition timing from fully advanced(20* iirc)to about 15* now due to the longer duration inlet cam, which has smoothed the acceleration through the rev range. Noticeably pulling a little better while fully laden with people and baggage. I wonder what it would be like if I advance the cam.

 

[CMF_frank2]

lookin grand matt
i re-tried the QG injectors recently, and they were spot on for the high comp cammed N/A, but definately too lean on 4psi of boost (you,re gonna need about 60psi+ of fuel pressure imo)
the 292 SR injectors really are ballpark size for the stock ecu (as long as you halve the fuel pressure @ low throttle)
and mine avoids closed loop now in all gears @ wot even with the speed sensor still connected, purely by high enrichment

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

ta mate, still got a long way to go, this 1 step forward 2 steps back game is challenging

I'm in the middle of making a throttle body spacer/adapter(got to rotate the tb to clear the fuel rail), which I want to incorporate a 5th injector on the front. So I think the QG injectors should be alright, or at least it's a good place to start I reckon. I've got some 292cc's ready to be swapped over if needed.

But priority is to just get it on and working, then I can adjust and refine, I've got no idea of the scale with everything untested and off the car, but I'm trying to cover all angles. Aye, large injectors and a propper rrfpr sounds ideal atm.

 

[CMF_frank2]

the 292,s will run fine matt, especially if you damper the vacuum signal to the reg (here,s my current damper, the red ballcock float lol )
its a bit too big tbh, so i,m running it without the 1/2mm restrictor in the pipe, but it softens the reaction of the reg, so that you get a more gradual increase of fuel pressure as the revs rise (and a slower reacting vacuum gauge)
and here,s a vid of me forcing the ecu out of closed loop

with a controlled air leak into the mani, and you can drop the fuel pressure that low that it will drive off the scale lean continously (or continously rich if you wanted to)
so the closed looping has its limits/peramiters eh

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

frank2 WROTE:

"the 292,s will run fine matt, especially if you damper the vacuum signal to the reg (here,s my current damper, the red ballcock float lol )

its a bit too big tbh, so i,m running it without the 1/2mm restrictor in the pipe, but it softens the reaction of the reg, so that you get a more gradual increase of fuel pressure as the revs rise (and a slower reacting vacuum gauge)

Frank did you use a small fuel filter as a damper before, or have I just made that up?? lol if so, how did that work out for you? I was thinking of making a cigar hose by using a 10mm hose and a couple of adapters, but something like an inline fuel filter may be more suitable, cheaper and easier, if it would work.

I managed to get an oil feed line sorted finally It's part of an oil filter extension kit and about half the price of imported turbo oil lines, that's made of the same stuff. If only I knew earlier, it appears that the oil hose I received before was a size too small which is why the fittings didn't fit, tut.

Things I've still got to do:
Adapt new wastgate actuator, set and fit.
Remove stock exhaust.
Cut new exhaust to length, add hangers.
Fit silencers, and fit exhaust.
Remove sump and replace with turbo oil drain sump.
Fit turbo, manifold and oil lines.
Cut charge pipe to length and fit.
Fit recirc. BOV, hoses and air filter.
Install boost gauge.
Buy and install fpr.
Adjust fueling to suit boost, or vice versa.

Most of them will be done on the weekend I fit it, so that's not too bad.

Of course I've also got planned:
Finish throttle body adapter and 5th injector spacer.
Swap intake manifold, fuel rail and injectors.
Make 5th injector controller.
Complete exhaust baffle/tip.
2 stage adjustable boost setup.
Assemble ported and polished head, and swap.
Alcohol injection *laughs* maybe

 

[CMF_frank2]

a little fuel filter, yes matt.
its just trial and error tbh, if you damp it too much it goes mad lean for a couple of secs, and with no damping it bogs down a tad as you let the clutch out eh

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

Adapted a Ford Escort RS T3 actuator to fit this Fiesta RS T2 turbo.

Set it to open as early as possible which is 10psi, it's fully open at 16psi. A little too high so I'm going to have to do something about that, not welding that close to the diaphragm this time though.

Just got to get this exhaust cut to length now, then it's on

In the meantime I've removed the GA injectors, when accelerating from idle they ran very rich and over time they've got even more richer to the point it stalls easily and became a huge pita. Got a cheapo ebay adjustable fpr to give me some scope before I get the topfeed injectors on.

 

[CMF_frank2]

looking good matt mine,s got a spring on the rod,(strong spring/low boost, weak spring/higher boost eh)

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

ta mate that's a pretty smart idea to have it on the rod itself, adjust the strength of the spring by moving the nut too?

 

[CMF_frank2]

k11_facelift WROTE:

"ta mate that's a pretty smart idea to have it on the rod itself, adjust the strength of the spring by moving the nut too?

i find that spring preload adjustments can give very confusing results matt, i just carry different rate/same length springs personally

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

No it's not the update it should have been I've been far too busy to do the swap.

At Japfest2, Donnington Park.

Car's also developed a fault which is putting me off fitting the turbo. It's kangarooing quite a bit and when coming to a stop the revs drop and it can occasionally stall, I've removed the adjustable fpr but that's not at fault, I've now removed the cold start mech and adjusted the idle and throttle screws but that's made no difference, I've replaced the spark plugs too with no result and I've adjusted the ignition timing but it still occurs.
So this weekend will be spent testing and fixing that.

I also went through a pair of front tyres in next to no time at all, took about 1000miles to go through 5-6mm of tread, rears have worn through about 0.5mm, tracking must be out a fair bit
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8294/7611535356_73d90a94b7.jpg[img]

So I'm running a staggered set of wheels atm.
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8007/7611518720_f51947a5cf.jpg[img]

Good news though, exhaust is done, cut it down to length and fitted the silencers, I've also created a smaller, silenced exhaust tip. Reduces it from 2.25" to 1.75" with a flare, and will poke out beneath the rear of the o/s sill. Hopefully it'll be quiet enough, but it shouldn't be too difficult to add an over axle pipe to exit at the rear with a 3rd silencer.

[img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7276/7609672224_1d00a75c89.jpg

I'm now looking at these, 12:1 rrfpr.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231fd23543
Seems quite cheap, and I guess you get what you pay for, but one of these could give me the scope for the fuelling I'd need.

 

[CMF_frank2]

that reg look ok eh matt, you will probably have to try out different springs tho

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

frank2 WROTE:

"that reg look ok eh matt, you will probably have to try out different springs tho

yeah hopefully it should be ok with stock injectors at low boost for now, with some dampening. But I'll have to adjust it when I fit the larger top feed injectors. I must have at least one combination that works now though

Any thoughts about what could be causing the jumpy ride at low revs? Even if it's a complete guess, it'll give me something to try, I've got the weekend off so I want to find it and fix it.

 

[CMF_frank2]

i would guess that the reg is set at about 2.5 bar and rises to 6 bar + personally matt ! (mine regulates far lower )
and does the a/f/r gauge go lean when it starts jumping mate ?

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

frank2 WROTE:

"i would guess that the reg is set at about 2.5 bar and rises to 6 bar + personally matt ! (mine regulates far lower )

and does the a/f/r gauge go lean when it starts jumping mate ?

Yeah it'll be about 6bar fuel pressure at 5psi boost pressure, bit much lol.

afr gauge goes rich occasionally when it jumps, but never lean I don't think. I've got a spare dizzy and a spare tb that I may try out. But I'm worried that I may have had some piston to valve contact and lost compression after cranking it over with a camshaft 1 tooth out. Would rolling it about in gear detect small loses in compression?

 

[CMF_frank2]

k11_facelift WROTE:
Would rolling it about in gear detect small loses in compression?

i make do with that method lol
in 3rd gear down our hill, and if it takes 5 to 10 secs for each cyl to to turn then thats ok.
a slightly bent valve wont even register any compression eh
and if you can change the reg spring to get about 1.5 bar @ idle, it should work fine with the SR injectors eh matt

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

Compression seems fine, had to do it by hand though as all the local hills were too busy. After some more research, I found if the throttle bodys idle controls have been adjusted incorrectly it can throw the tps readings off which can then result in a jumpy car around 2000rpm, bingo. I've now swapped this t/b for a low mileage one which I've also removed material from the shaft to increase flow. Cold start mech has also been removed from this too.

Should have got a better pic.

Working flawlessly, for now. TPS set at .50v, idle's around 1000rpm, slightly throatier noise at wot. Performance increase is tiny at best, pointless really, but driving in traffic is smoother now

While working on the t/b I've found the inlet mani damp with petrol, can see a couple of small pools here next to some burn-like marks.

anything to worry about? or just result of oversized injectors and long duration inlet cam?

 

[CMF_k11_facelift]

Finally, I've been waiting for some time off work and I've now changed rotas so I now get a whole week off every 4 weeks, this is that week, so the turbo's going on.

Day 1 involved a quick drive to pick up some fresh oil, while also heating the exhaust nuts. Unbolting the exhaust manifold from the engine was simple, but they were the only nuts that would come off. Cut the middle section just short of the backbox. The alternator was removed next to allow the exhaust to drop off underneath.

Day 2 involved removing the sump and replacing with one with an oil drain fitting. Fitted the manifold and turbo and fitted oil lines.

Day 3 I offered up the exhaust and took measurement of where to cut, and where to add hanging brackets. I welded 2 Cherry bomb style silencers together and spot welded them onto the downpipe, a 90* bend was welded on the other end to finish infront of the rear n/s wheel.

Charge pipe was then cut to size and installed, along with vaccuum lines and boost gauge. 12:1 rrfpr was put inline on fuel return.

Took it out for a 20min lap of town and filled up with 99ron petrol, all seemed good, comes on boost about 3500rpm, peaking at 4psi at about 5000rpm+. Running rich, but unsure how much and the afr gauge isn't working on this lambda sensor so I still could be running leaning out under boost..

Day 4 I took it for a 260mile round trip to RRG12 meet. Not sure if that was stupid or courageous, but it made it fine. Fuel pump made a constant whine with this 99ron fuel but fine with regular 95ron.

Performance is quite good, I was impressed with how well it pulls. Even at 0psi it's noticeably torquer. But atm there's a bigger gain in noise than power. Exhaust is rather loud, but not a typical boy racer hot hatch, more 70's turbo rod, but still, bloody loud. If I had to guess a figure I'd say it's running 75bhp, but it feels like a 100 when you hear the turbo spool up

Will need to tweek the fuel ratio, atm I'm using stock injectors with the rail set at 3bar allowing the fmu to increase it to 5bar+ on boost. With the stock fpr connected and vaccuum hose on it's very jerky, but sounds healthier off boost.
Will also install colder plugs, and adjust ignition timing, also got cams to tinker with again before I think about increasing the boost.

 

[CMF_frank2]

Major progress there matt, whose is the smart white one next to yours lol