Missing again... :-s

Hello.
A good few months ago my Micra (K10 GSX 1.0 auto) developed a miss fire and eventually ran on 3 continuously. It turned out to be the number 1 plug lead had broken down and failed. As a matter of course we replaced all leads, plugs, distributor cap, rota arm, points, condensor.
However the symptoms are back!
Under acceleration the car jolts like misses a beat and continues, this seems to get worse after 45mph and gets progressively worse the faster I go. I can't imagine it's something electrical as it had all been replaced a few months ago as I explained but the symptoms are pretty similar. It also doesn't like hot starting another problem that was cured temporally by replacing the electrical items, however bad hot starting returned after a few weeks.
Any ideas?
 
Hey :) I'm new here but thought I'd post on this one as it seemed we may have the same issue. Mine jolts badly when doing a hard accelerate (like pulling out quickly at a busy roundabout). I have changed the air filter and will be changing the spark plugs soon (when I get a nice dry weekend day!) - should this sort it out?
 
Hmm I've dunces replaced the coil, replaced the fuel filter and the carb has been off stripped and cleaned. The issue went away for two weeks and the car ran like a dream. However the problem is back. I'm considering replacing the fuel pump and I might drain the tank. Otherwise I'm at a complete loss. This is a low mileage car having only done 41,000 from new.
 
Hey :) I'm new here but thought I'd post on this one as it seemed we may have the same issue. Mine jolts badly when doing a hard accelerate (like pulling out quickly at a busy roundabout). I have changed the air filter and will be changing the spark plugs soon (when I get a nice dry weekend day!) - should this sort it out?
You have a vacuum leak :)
 
I've just ordered a fuel pump.
There's no obvious signs of an air leak, I can't really hear any sucking of air like you'd expect from a leaking vacuum hose.
On a good day like today it ran fine for around 15 miles and then started missing or stuttering down and then but on a bad day it does it from cold and gets progressively worse. To the point it does it so bad I can build speed and virtually stops going up hill. I had to pull over three times on my way home from work to let the traffic by.
 
Oh...it's mainly under acceleration but it can be heard missing a beat slightly when it's at idle. It's a lot more obvious at around 45mph +.
 
Check your auto gearbox fluid :)
Old carb cars like this you have to expect to miss every now and then
Butba serious lack of power like that would suggest it has a fairly large parasitic loss of power hence check gearbox oil
 
Try spraying load of wd40 into the dizzy, had moisture ingress in my last car that caused a miss under throttle, wd40 and a quick wipe with a clean dry cloth usually solved it for 50 miles or so...
 
I took the distributor cap off and just noticed a build up of white powder on each electrode? I used a screwdriver and dislodged a small amount. I'm guessing this white stuff isn't a good thing lol
 
The dizzy is only a month or so old, I had it off yesterday and didn't see signs of moisture but I guess it's worth a go. Thanks.
Moisture can be in the air inside the dizzy, you'll be surprised how much of an effect a very small amount of moisture can make, the air ends up conducting electricity a lot better and you get tracking from the rotor arm to the dizzy body
I took the distributor cap off and just noticed a build up of white powder on each electrode? I used a screwdriver and dislodged a small amount. I'm guessing this white stuff isn't a good thing lol
Surface corrosion on the electrodes, can be exacerbated by electrical curents and moisture :rolleyes:
Not sayig it's definitive, but for a quick spray and wipe its definately worth a look. Do scrape off that corrosion though, the more insulation between rotor arm and electrodes the more likely you are to get tracking.
 
I'm not very mechanically minded so I don't understand how gearbox oil could effect the engine running?
On automatics they rely on the right oil levels to function correctly. If its low then the gearbox will use more of the engines power to function. Hence effecting the engine
 
replaces the cable that goes from the coil to the distributor, my k10 a few times and had also failed to accelerate sheath to not go down, the symptom was such a cable / broken wire
 
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