MICRA TRACK CAR !!! :-)

CMF_Brendon

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
ok my brother bought a micra few years ago now off craig, (bosito) some of you may remember this car.

anyway my brother wanted to sell it but now we are in the process of seriously thinking about making it a track car. suspension is good,
1st thing we need to source is brakes. then a seat then a ecu , quad tb's , cam , tyres

what calipers bolt straight on? whats the best option. i forgotten most things. ill get new rotors easy enough just need the calipers. i actually pretty excited about it all.
throw some info at me people
 

CMF_sodaniel

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Well are you going down the turbo route or N/A route? They're both very different and will have different requirements... bang for buck is obviously turbo route as a lot of the members have done here.

Brakes -
1.6L N14 or N15 clappers bolt on, but u will need some 1mm washers to clear. You can also use the SSS or Pulsar GTI-R brakes, they are bigger and better, but a bit front heavy, so depends on what power you are chasing, for an N/A I'd say the normal 1.6 brakes are sufficient. Use slotted discs, dot 4 or 5.1 fluids, braided lines and more aggressive pads and it should be a massive brake upgrade from standard.

Seat-
Make sure you get lower seat rails too! You can find 1-piece bucket seats from $200-$1000+ (no brand cheapest, sparco and the like in the middle, recaro or bride the most exxy!)

ECU -
A lot of people here recommend GReddy e-manage piggy back ECU, as it gives you control over a lot of things that other piggybacks (such as Apexi AFC/SAFC) don't. Of course, the best is to get a full standalone ecu, but we are looking at a couple of Gs...

Quads -
we'll it's pretty expensive to do, but if you're looking to get the most out of an N/A application, you want it... and a full ECU. If it's not in the budget, do the GA15 throttle body (bolt on, but need bigger injectors) custom air chamber and pod filter with a nice cold air feed, a step up form this would be getting your own custom intake plenum and SR20 throttle body.

Cams -
Well not sure what there is out there besides Tomei cams (256 degree) which is pretty mild, and Nismo ones which are a touch more tougher (ask turbo march rolling shell). I'm sure you can get them remolded to your own more aggressive profile from somewhere else, provided you have donor cams to give.

Tires -
Semi-slick for the track. Depends on what size wheels you plan to run, I use 14s and find Toyo R888 a good compromise for street and track. Yokohama AO48 is also good.

if it's a dedicated track car, lighten it as much as possible, remove trim, back seats, spare tire, air con etc... it will take a **** load off believe me. best modification to have on the track, is your suspension and tires addressed.
 

CMF_Brendon

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
ill be going N/A as its more reliable we dont wanna spend to much money.

brakes deffinately 1.6L calipers and brakes, and the ga15 tb is morel iekly the option at the moment. the gtir brakes no good as they take to long to heat up to temperature.

also i knew a lot about micras as i used to have one and was member no. 75 or something to sign up to this site. hehe i used to be a mod on here.

if i got a ecu it would probably be a microtech if i can get one.
yeah will be a dedicated track car. interior os all coming out. we figure if we can get 85kw atw out of it in N/A and can make the car weigh 550kg or so by removing a lot of weight we figure it will be a very fun and zippy track car.

what about injectors??

mods to car as of now
suspension is almost good to go, got a full whiteline kit with konig adj shocks and springs.
tyres will be 14inch . thanks for tip on tyres.
light weight flywheel
fuel pressure reg
4-2-1 extractors plus 2inch exhaust
pod filter

thansk for info

 

CMF_sodaniel

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Hey brendon 550kg is going to be hard to reach hehe I'm not sure whether you can even get it that low...

I consider my car pretty stripped out, without drilling into the chassis of course. No P/S, no A/C or any power options, rear seats and trim removed, roof lining removed, everything behind the dash removed (all climate controls, vents, second a/c condenser), stereo speakers and aerial gone, sound deadening taken out, light flywheel, light battery, lighter exhaust, lightweight 14 inch wheels, fibreglass fenders etc etc... but I'd be one about 710kg odd I reckon... To get lower, need to get carbon fibre bonnet, start cutting holes in the chassis etc... and most race cars use roll cages etc which add weight again.

The only injectors you can bolt into the standard fuel rail are UKDM GA16 injectors or JDM GA15 injectors, no aussie spec injectors will go in, unless you have customised your fuel rail.
 
Back
Top