Micra goes into gear but sounds like clutch is in

CMF_mitchgc

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I was driving into town tonight and I put my foot on the clutch to change gears, went into third and let the clutch out and it sounded like I still had the clutch in or it was in neutral. The clutch pedal is now super easy to push down and the car only drives at 40kph. If I push down too hard it just revs like if you were in neutral.

Is this a clutch cable? Or a gearbox fault? Can someone help me out here? Haha.

Cheers.
 

CMF_Micra_King

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Yeah clutch slip alight. If you know anyone who can do the job for you then under $100 depending on clutch kit you buy. If you have to take it to a mech then price depends on the type of mech you go to. Some will rip you off while offers wont. If your NOR I can give you the details of a mech in malaga who wont rip you off and does a good job.
 

CMF_asdame

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as the clutch wears, the clutch pedal bite point gets higher until it slips even when the pedals released (clutch cable is pulling too much).

it should be during each servicing that the clutch cable is loosened till the bite point is halfway as the clutch material wears down.

so i suggest loosening off the clutch cable till the bitepoint is right and see if that works.
 

CMF_mitchgc

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@Micra_King: The car is undriveable more or less, so I'll have to get a mobile mechanic out unless a guy from work who is pretty good with cars can help me.
@asdame: Can I do this without taking the engine/gearbox out? I remember adjusting the clutch cable on my old Corolla...
@frank2: Would like to do that, but don't have the time, money or experience.
@nsm: How much would the clutch kit be?

If I can buy the clutch kit, at least I know that I won't be paying for marked-up goods.

Cheers guys.
 

CMF_asdame

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I'd adjust the clutch cable first as its quick n easy n free before the more involved gearbox out jobs.

no need to touch anything, it's located just under the battery tray.

the clutch cable is hooked to the gearbox clutch arm via threaded thumbscrew.

hold the thumbscrew and loosen the locknut with 10mm spanner (tight access with big hands but managable)

then unwind the thumbscrew to lengthen the cable/clutch arm distance which:

*loosens the clutch cable tension
*clutch fork isn't constantly pressing on the diaphram = less thrustbearing wear
*the diaphram spring now squeezes the pressure plate & flywheel against the clutch plate full force rather than being held back by the excessive cable tension and slipping

while adjusting, run the engine and check the biting point is between 1/4 and 1/2 way up then you could tighten the locknut back up and test run it
 

CMF_mitchgc

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For anyone interested, I went to the mechanics behind Peak in Glen Forrest and got the clutch replaced for $535 ($385 labour, $125 clutch assembly, $10 crankshaft rear main seal (apparently was leaking oil), $15 seal oil).
 
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