Lumpy running when cold

[wehey]

Hiya all
I have a problem that has reared it's head since the mornings have become colder and damper.
When starting from cold the engine will run really lumpy at low revs.
As the revs rise it clears and it runs fine. As the engine warms up, maybe after the first mile, it clears and runs fine. It's as if its not firing cleanly or missing.
The leads and plugs were changed last autumn.

It's probably not related but probably worth a mention but the tickover/idle once warm is also lumpy but this has been so for a good 3/4 months now.

Any advise is appreciated

 

[Micra Biker]

Could be a faulty coolant temp. sensor. I have a similar problem - starts up fine, but after a mile or so the engine becomes hesitant as if it is starved of fuel. After 10-15 secs, its back to normal. I suspect the sensor has a fault, but havent got round to sorting it yet.

 

[wehey]

Thanks got the reply.
My problem seems different to yours in that the bad running starts from the moment I start off and lasts a few miles and only happens on damp days

 

[AJC]

Plugs/leads or condensation inside the dizzy cap?

 

[wehey]

Plugs and leads are new but I will defo check out the dizzy.
Thanks for that

 

[pollyp]

The 4 contacts in the dizzy cap usually get coated with white oxide which affects cold start firing. Wire brush with dremel or scrape the oxide layer off till bare metal

 

[wehey]

Thanks mate. I will have a crack at it this weekend.
The idle control valve needs a clean too I think as the idle, once warm, has become erratic too over the past few months

 

[pollyp]

here's a guide on how to remove the dodgy waxstat fast idle mechanism, clean the IACV and then adjust the allen head idle speed screw when warm.
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-19#post-446256

bit about recalibrating the IACV with diagnostics ain't essential but preferable.

 

[wehey]

your a star

 

[pollyp]

glad to help

 

[wehey]

This may be a dumb question but are there just the two bolts holding the distributor cap on?
I don't want to force it if there is a hidden one underneath ?
Thanks again

 

[wehey]

Ok cancel the last request. I have found the 3rd bolt

 

[r-reg-sr]

bolt on parts for k11's,,,,,,,,yo

 

[wehey]

Just a quick update.
Yesterday I took advantage of a small window of good weather and did some work on the car.
I cleaned the idle control valve and removed the dizzy cap and cleaned all of the contacts (which were badly scabbed up)
Last night was rainy and damp and despit this the car ran beautifully this morning and once warm idled perfectly.
Happy days. Thanks for all the help!

Next job.......cv joint

 

[r-reg-sr]

Just a
Next job.......cv joint

more bolt on parts. k11 dough

 

[wehey]

Rather than start another thread I would like to pick some brains regarding my CV joint.
Whilst doing an oil change today I thought I would take a look and see what was involved in changing the cv joint.

Recently in May, for my mot I had the cv boot on this side changed by Setyres. The knocking sound I am experiencing started about 2 months ago and so i presumed the cv joint was on its way out.

It turns out, on inspection that the bolt on the end of the drive shaft was loose and once tightened the knocking and play I had has now gone.

Is it in anyway possible that this bolt could come loose if it was torqued up correctly by the garage when the boot was changed or have they failed miserably and I now have to go and kick some grease monkey arses??

 

[frank]

polly and chris have had the same happen, and had to threadlock them iirc (but they have LSD,s tho)

 

[wehey]

Ok thanks Frank. That's put my mind at rest, and you my friend have just saved a monkey lol